Nice. Mine's coming apart this winter. Want to keep it driveable for the summer
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Reversing a hackjob - RMT 200 DIY - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration
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Originally posted by Zinoberrot View PostAwesome. I've ordered the harness already and ecs has good prices on tesa tape. It looks like the harness only plugs in to the bottom two receptacles on the deck. Is the larger top one just left empty or is it for VW specific use?-Geno
'87 325is (s52'd)
'95 525iT
'02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
'98 Disco 1
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Reminds me of mine when I first got it. The speaker wires were just run to whatever wire on the harness they felt like. Nasty twists with electrical tape and some without. Took me a while to sort it all out.91 318is M50 swapped
05 Honda Pilot
24V swap thread
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=302524
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So my RMT 200 is sitting in my office but I'm on vacation so i cant get to it until next week.
In the mean time, here is a color key for the Metra 71-1784 harness i have, and a listing of the wire colors coming out of my dash. I have tried my best to gather the necessary information from threads on this forum (from Luke, Geno, etc) to match up the two, but would appreciate if the experts here could confirm or correct my diagram below.
Also Luke I saw you posted the Metra flush mount frame. Going to order one of those. Geno, did you have a specific set of ABS rectangles that you used to sink the flush mount further behind the faceplate? Any pictures of the fabrication process you did? If not I'll take some.
EDIT*Removed wiring diagram, was incorrectLast edited by CurrusDei; 12-21-2014, 03:57 PM.
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Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration
Spent some time with the ETM tonight. A few observations.
I don't think my car had a fader. There isn't one in the dash, so unless the previous owner took the trouble to remove it AND source a cover for the dash opening there never was one. based on his other work on the car he would have just left the fader in or electrical taped over the opening.
My car being an M3 doesn't have a power raise antenna. Does this mean I will have one less white wire? I can only see one.
It looks like the two YL/BR and two BL/BR wires go to the case ground (assuming mine follows the early production model. However, I also have two Brown wires that go nowhere AND we're being used as the case ground on the old radio. So I guess I'm still confused here. Do I need to strip back further on the harness to look for the orange and brown wires? I feel like the harness is already stripped back pretty far.
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Thanks. There's no way i would have figured that out.
I'm sure its a 20 min job for someone who knows what they're doing (i.e., not me). The first time I did a wheel bearing job on my e30 it took me three weeks working in my spare time and gathering the right tools. The other side took me 3 hours. So, experience definitely plays a role here.
If you could answer a couple questions that i have after reading the bypass thread I think I'll have this to where i can install and then troubleshoot anything from there.
- Based on what I have read, i WILL have the Orange/Brown wires if i unwrap further back on the harness that the fader wires are going into, correct?
- Where do the yellow/brown and blue/brown wires go if they are not the speaker grounds?
- Am i still missing a second white wire or do i not have one because my antenna is fixed on the roof?
Thanks Luke!
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Reversing a hackjob - the stereo portion of my E30 M3 restoration
Originally posted by jhaurimn View PostWhat he said ^
Also, yes, you should only have one white wire for the antenna power.
Let me know if you need a fader switch, I got a spare one.
Thanks, you posted while I was writing my response above. Am i correct in assuming I can just bypass the fader by cutting off the black connector and connecting the wires directly into the harness?
And to keep the thread interesting, pics!
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