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    The Ghost Motor

    I have an electrical motor that keeps running (humming) with the car shut off. It is under the driver's side windshield wiper in the little black plastic vent. If I pull the #4 fuse it stops. What is this and how do I fix it?
    sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

    #2
    Is it the HVAC?

    Bently manual says fuse 4 (15 amp lt blue) is

    "Turn signal and
    emergency flasher
    lights (also see
    fuse 24)
    Active check
    control (also see
    fuses 6, 1 0, 2 1 , 22,
    and 23)
    Digital clock (also
    see fuse 2 1 )"

    Are all those working? Could be a bad relay that is buzzing. (opening and closing really fast)
    In another thread I think you said that the windshield wipers aren't working? Perhaps they're stuck on and the previous owner, for whatever silly reason, took the cam or armature off the motor so that it ends up running forever but not moving the wipers, instead of just pulling the fuse. That's on fuse 5 (30 amp green), so you may be pulling the wrong fuse. The numbers are pretty small and hard for me to read in the fuse panel. There's also the relay and control unit that runs the wipers, they could be bad. Pull them and see.



    Here's more stuff to chase down.

    Table w. Other Electrical Component Locations
    Other Components Location

    ABS control unit Beneath driver's side of instrument panel
    Active check control In windshield header unit
    Back-up light switch On transmission side
    Brake light switch Above brake pedal
    Central locking system In driver's footwell, below speaker control unit
    Chime module Beneath driver's side of instrument panel, attached to lower trim panel
    Clutch switch Above clutch pedal
    Coolant level switch In coolant expansion tank
    Convertible top position Driver's side of top stowage switch compartment
    C ruise control unit Beneath i nstrument panel, above glove compartment on top of fuel injection control unit
    Cruise control servo In engine compartment, in front of left shock tower
    Flasher In steering column, above lower steering column trim
    Fuel tank sender Under rear seat, d river's side of fuel tank
    Fresh air blower motor Behind firewall trim panel
    Fresh air blower Behind firewall trim panel, attached resistors to blower motor housing
    Interior light timer I n driver's footwell, below speaker control
    Neutral/park/backup In center console, at base of shift light switch lever
    Oil level sensor In oil pan, left side of engine
    On-board computer Under driver's side of front bumper horn and diode
    On-board computer In center of instrument panel, to right module of radio
    Rear window blower Behind center of rear seat back motor (convertible only)
    Seat belt warning timer Beneath driver's side of instrument panel, left side of steering column
    Starter Left side of engine, rear
    Sunroof motor In windshield header
    Windshield washer fluid In washer fluid reservoir in engine level switch compartment
    Windshield washer In washer fluid reservoir in engine pump compartment
    Wiper motor Rear of engine compartment, behind firewall panel
    Horns Above left and right side of front bumper, behind splash guard
    Horn brush/slip ring Beneath steering wheel on steering assembly column
    Attached Files

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks, it's dark but that's what flash lights are for ima trouble shoot it real quick.
      sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

      Comment


        #4
        Which relay will need replaced? Is it the big black one you take out to troubleshoot? Because my wiper motor is staying on all the time even with the car off and the wipers don't move so I suspect the arms are off.
        sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

        Comment


          #5
          If you pulled the big black control unit and that stopped the motor then that's the one. It has control and relays all inside. You can replace it or open it up to clean and unstick the contacts, redo cold solder joint... BUT!! The wiper control unit only gets power through fuse 5 with the key on. If the key is off and they keep running it leads me to believe there's a short or wrong splice somewhere that has constant 12v from the battery or the main relay is stuck on, in conjunction with a bad switch or short triggering the control.

          If you change the wiper speed on the steering column does it change the motor sound? If you pull any other fuses does it turn off the motor?

          Make sure you're pulling the correct fuse. If it's actually fuse 4 that you're pulling then something could have been kicked loose under the steering column and fixed incorrectly. Fuse 4 is turn signals, hazards and OBC. Hazards and OBC have constant 12v. Do your hazards, turn signals etc all work exactly as they should?

          If other accessories are working while the key is in the off position then the key switch could be bad or the main relay could be stuck on.

          My buddies suburban has a wiring problem in the steering column so when you hit the horn it turns on the left turn signal!!

          Comment


            #6
            If I flick the wiper control the motor does run faster with each corresponding flick. I will look at the relay in depth today sometime.
            sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

            Comment


              #7
              Ok I am in the middle of TS the wipe conundrum. It seems the motor is always on and the switch inside will only put the motor on low or high the 2 intermediate marks do nothing to its speed. I am going to TS the relay now.
              sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

              Comment


                #8
                The Ghost Motor

                Hopefully it's just the control circuit relay thingy, because that behavior is kinda strange. But it is solid state so it could be doing all kinds of stupid stuff. Still, it shouldn't have power if the keys are off. That worries me.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Right you were sir. I just trouble shot the relay per the TS handbook procedures (dang that sounded slick) and found out some interesting things. First off there IS a constant hot there in the box itself, idk why but there is. It seems the wiper switch inside the car is just a "sending" unit and the motor gets it's main power from the relay via the battery direct (smart no burnt circuits in the steering wheel column). I then went ahead with the TS procedure and everything checked out so my relay is bad. I think some nimrod may have disconnected the wiper motor arm. Now it looks like to me to get into the firewall I have to take a plethora of stuff lose, I would prefer not to do that. Can I access it through the black vent above it? I eagerly await your tutelage.
                  sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well the pass side quit again, it got real slow then just died lol. I put the driver switch in because I know it's good but nada. I guess I need a motor, I wish they were manual. Do they make a handle to fit those windows with the allen key head that will stay in?
                    sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Awesome! Do you plan to take the relay apart or just buy a new one?

                      I think you can just take off the driver side wiper arm, carefully pop off that plastic grill and access the motor and cam there.

                      Don't know about the window handle :/

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Navarone View Post
                        Awesome! Do you plan to take the relay apart or just buy a new one?

                        I think you can just take off the driver side wiper arm, carefully pop off that plastic grill and access the motor and cam there.

                        Don't know about the window handle :/
                        I was just gonna grab a couple from the local pull a part if they were still in the cars, but I am not biased to opening this one up I just don't know how to fix them.
                        sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I popped it open, everything looks good, all the solder joints are still silver but it smells like it's fried. Kinda like an electrical fire. And it's very strong I can smell it from the end of my desk.
                          sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Haha great! I suspect it's burnt coils on the relay making that wonderful odor. That could be the cause or the effect of the problem. When you pop the new one in, if the motor still runs take it back out again so you don't fry it also. You'll have to track down a different problem.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Navarone View Post
                              Haha great! I suspect it's burnt coils on the relay making that wonderful odor. That could be the cause or the effect of the problem. When you pop the new one in, if the motor still runs take it back out again so you don't fry it also. You'll have to track down a different problem.
                              Roger that, thanks again for the help ,:o
                              sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

                              Comment

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