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    Random Park Brake, Brake, Battery Lights fading in and out

    Hey r3vvers,

    So I'm new here, and I bought my E30 about a month ago.

    I had an issue when I first got it where the three lights mentioned above would be on dimly at idle, then would go away when you set off from a stop, but would return at random points in the rev range. When high up in the rev band (5000 plus), these lights would light and fade quickly, in an engine speed dependent way. I also had a pulsing issue with all the lights in and on the car when cruising between 2000-3000 RPM.

    So, I thought voltage regulator. I pulled the old one out to find that the contacts were still in good condition and still near 11mm long (new ones are 12mm, IIRC). I was mostly right, as that solved the pulsing completely, and the speed dependent flashing at high revs. However, they are still on dimly at idle, and they fade when you set off, but come back in that 2000-3000 range, but fade again completely above say 3250 RPM.

    Any thoughts? It's a bit disconcerting with winter coming, and I replaced the regulator as a precaution. Is it possible the actual alternator is worn out?

    ~Cody
    1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa


    #2
    bumpage
    1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

    Comment


      #3
      random flickering would indicate a poor contact somewhere.

      you can perform a load test of sorts on a running engine (1500 rpm) with a multimeter.....
      attach the meter to the battery and note the charging voltage (should be 13.5+)
      have someone turn on the headlights and the blower simultaneously
      after an initial drop, a properly functioning charging system should return to the full charging voltage

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for that, I'll get right on checking it!

        But basically if I don't see full voltage, somewhere the energy is being dissipated?

        I have yet to check all the engine bay grounds, but the car still works and seems to charge in the same fashion with all the accessories on. (blower, wipers, headlights)
        1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

        Comment


          #5
          So. Installed a new head unit today. Wired per our writeup here at r3v. Caused a small short during my wire job because of my own stupidity, replaced the fuse, drove the car.

          An hour later it wouldn't start.

          Got jump started, drove home, no issues, gonna check if it fires up in a few hours.

          Thoughts? No other issues with the car.

          Oh! And the radio only turns on when I have parking lights on. As soon as they go off, so does the radio and its memory disappears.
          1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by yodman View Post
            Oh! And the radio only turns on when I have parking lights on. As soon as they go off, so does the radio and its memory disappears.
            You've probably hooked the wire from the radio that is supposed to go to "constantly hot" onto the interior lamps wire. (the one that makes the gauges and buttons glow when the lights are on)
            -Christian

            '02 ///M3 CarbonSchwartz 6MT daily beast
            08/91 Mtechnic II 325IC alpine/lotus
            318iS, slow build/garage queen...
            '37 Chevy pickup, the über project
            Originally posted by roguetoaster
            Be sure to remind them that the M42 is one of the best engines ever made, but be sure to not mention where it actually falls on that list.

            Comment


              #7
              For the radio, you need a constant 12v power. That's on, 100% of the time.
              You also need a switched power. This is a 12v power that is switched on, once the ignition is turned to accessory, or further. You currently have neither correct.

              Also, wire colors of the head unit will not coordinate with wire colors in the dash.

              Comment


                #8
                Does this setup seem incorrect?

                It came from BimmerForums, not here. Excuse the mistake.

                HEAD UNIT INSTALL:

                The official e30 Aftermarket Radio Install Write up!
                If you have the premium system ( tweeter on doors, plate speakers on rear deck )

                * Yellow wire from new head 12v+ goes to Red/grn in dash
                * Red wire from head ign goes to purple/wht in dash
                * Black wire goes to brown wire in dash plus two extra brn/blks that were attached to old head. There will be three wires total hooked to the black from new head.
                * Blue/wht from new head goes to both white wires in dash. If you don't have a blue/wht on new head, use the blue.
                * That will leave three wires:
                * If your new head has a dimmer lead ( usually orange ) it will attach to the red/grn lead in dash. If the new head does not, TAPE THIS OFF. No sense blowing fuses now when you are so close to sound.
                * White wire from new head goes to yellow wire in dash
                * Grey wire on new head goes to blue wire in dash.
                * Tape off ALL REMAINING WIRES FROM NEW HEAD, don't allow them to touch each other or any metal in the dash.
                * This uses the factory fader, and factory amp, without messy rewiring.
                * Anyone who tells you that the new radio has more watts than the old amp needs to look at what it takes to make 40x4 rms. It sure ain't gonna fit inside a deck, and it will need at least 10ga power wire, which new radios don't have.
                * I worked the install bay many many years. I did every e30 like this, and my 88 535is has had this wiring for 6 years, no problems. There is a common thread on these boards that says 'rewire' when it is not needed.
                * If you have the std system without an amp, it is just as easy, there are two extra wires. Email me for details if so.
                * If you are confused, take it to a reputable shop ( no Best or Circuit in the name ). 40 bucks and you will be in and out in 10-15 minutes.

                thats from the e30 faq's section on here i just copy/pasted.
                1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

                Comment


                  #9
                  I used Luke's write up http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=231107
                  -Christian

                  '02 ///M3 CarbonSchwartz 6MT daily beast
                  08/91 Mtechnic II 325IC alpine/lotus
                  318iS, slow build/garage queen...
                  '37 Chevy pickup, the über project
                  Originally posted by roguetoaster
                  Be sure to remind them that the M42 is one of the best engines ever made, but be sure to not mention where it actually falls on that list.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Mine is a non-premium car as far as I could tell. No amp in the back. Otherwise the rear speakers I just installed wouldn't work if the amp was disconnected, right?
                    1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

                    Comment


                      #11
                      This picture was taken at cruising speed at 2500 RPM.

                      1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

                      Comment


                        #12
                        So, update on this... When the car sits and idles for a period of time greater than 10 minutes, the battery is draining. There are no signs to show it other than the idle beginning to lope, the lights dimming, and the Anti-Lock light coming on in the dash.

                        Therefore, I rev the car and hold the pedal at 1500 RPM or more to charge it back up, as the charging light goes out completely at this point, and the Anti-Lock light turns off.

                        After this, I decide to shut off and restart the car. Turns off, key back on, everything seems normal, I turn the key, and it turns one time before running out of juice.

                        So, I guess trying to recover from a long idle does NOT mean it starts charging again.

                        Sounds like an alternator with bad winds in it. Gonna pick up a new one here shortly.

                        Funny part is, once I jump the car again, it's totally fine. It charges, it turns off, it restarts as if nothing happened.
                        1989 635csi - Betty White - 5-Speed, 120k, AWII over Natur Nappa

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