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DIY - GE Keyless Entry Write-Up

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    DIY - GE Keyless Entry Write-Up

    ALL CREDIT TO R3V MEMBER "FLG"


    I had been looking for a good write-up/video on how to install my German Engineering keyless entry unit for quite some time. Stumbled upon one of the original threads and found this post to be word for word on point. This was my first time messing with electrical (complete wiring/electrical n00b) and it was a breeze and fun to mess with. Unit works 100% as advertised and installed in the front of the car. Im no pro at this by no means at all but this is what i did and it worked for me.

    I watched this short video on techniques to splice into the cars wires



    AND

    This 100% accurate and straight forward post


    Originally posted by FLG View Post

    Make sure you test functionality during each step and before closing everything up! You dont want to have to go back and do it all over again. Also make sure the driver side door is closed or it will not lock. Also remove battery power when working with the electrical system.

    Remove cover under dash, remove drivers kick panel, and peel back carpet. Your going to see about 4 bundles of wires that are being held in by a clip 3 will be removable with a bit of finesse and 1 (biggest of the bunch) you cant remove without removing the clip, but this one isnt the one your going to be using so its fine, also the 2 smaller ones can be moved out of the way as well. The second largest one in the group is the one your looking for.

    Find the yellow/blue and splice into it (i used butt connectors and heat shrink tape) with the solid white from the controller

    Next find green/blue and splice into that with the white/black from the controller

    Attach yellow, yellow/black, and black to a ground (i used one of the screws behind the kick panel)

    Next look at your steering column, your going to see a block of connectors, press the 2 tabs in and remove the block (will make things easier to access). There will be a thick red wire, this wire is always hot, regardless of ignition...thats what we want. Now to make things easier i just used a quick splice to tap into it, generally i dont like quick splices but you dont have much room to work with and were dealing with a momentary and pretty low amperage connection, so in this situation it worked just fine.

    Next step, remove the connector from your headlight switch (be careful not to break the tabs, i broke one...their delicate) your going to find a grey/white and a grey/yellow, splice one of the brown wires into grey/white and the other into grey/yellow (makes no difference) this will now allow the parking lights to flash.

    Re-wrap the wire bunch you spliced into earlier with tape and put it back under the carpet.

    I than attached the plug and used the double sided tape included and attached the controller to the ABS computer which sits on the left side.

    Wrap up the wires, zip tie..ect to neaten things up a bit.

    Again test and make sure everything is working. Button it all up, and your done.

    Also if you have a 5 spd and you find a connector sitting on the floor and have no idea where it came from, check here...you probably knocked off the same one i did.



    Dont worry, its just a clutch bypass connector for the auto guys.

    I hope this helps. Also if your wondering why we cant use the trunk open button..check my post above, cant open just the trunk without a separate solenoid to open it.

    Now off to get the keys cut later today.

    And finally, dont sit there and unlocking/locking the thing a bunch of times in quick succession..if i remember correctly from the bently after 8 times the central locking computer will put itself in a safety mode momentarily as to not burn out the circuitry.

    Original thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234209

    #2
    Awesome. Thanks for this.

    form.follows.function IG @mplfoster

    Comment


      #3
      Made an easy to read diagram for the visual learner.
      Attached Files
      sigpic

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        #4
        Awesome.

        Comment


          #5
          Works perfectly.

          Be advised however that there are two green/blue wires in the 2nd to largest bundle. A large and a small one. You want the smaller one.


          --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

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            #6
            Good info


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            /// MTech Belts ///


            S52 BUILD

            M3 VERT BUILD

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              #7
              This is the main harness I want right??


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              /// MTech Belts ///


              S52 BUILD

              M3 VERT BUILD

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                #8
                Not that one. The second largest harness.

                Comment


                  #9
                  i just got this kit but while i was waiting for a day to do it my central locking has stopped working, what could the problem be?
                  Originally posted by Vokuhila
                  I laughed, and then I serioused

                  Comment


                    #10
                    awesome. I was looking at making a setup like this the other day... found a flip key fob and a cheap keyless entry unit that operated at the same Mhz. Much rather go the GE route!
                    2003 Z4 3.0 6-speed- Silver, 19's, daily driver
                    1990 Silver 325i- Lowered on H&R OE Sports, e90 drop hats, KYB shocks, color matched rocker panels, 16" Emortal RS wheels on 205/50/16 tires... Currently getting a full refresh including an S52 swap!
                    1997 Black Ford Probe GT- Stripped to 2220lbs, MS3X, Forged motor in midst of assembly... Dyno results and 1/4 mile times pending

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