Should I use this OG Alpine amp or HU?

[benz-tech]

I need a new head unit anyway so I am considering one with 3 channel pre outs to run this old Alpine 3553 4-channel amp. It's only rated at 35 w rms. It weighs a solid 10 lbs and was made in Japan back when things like this were still made there.
My real question is should I just use the approx 40-50 wpc from a decent Pioneer 9600 head unit or re-wire my non-prem system for an amp.
I am using all premium speakers. And a separate sub and amp.

[Nesset]

In my opinion external power is ALWAYS better than using the inboard amp on your head unit. Especially using a decent amp such as that. Old Alpine gear is top notch and I am sure you will be happy with the performance of it.

[benz-tech]

That's kinda what I figured. I wasn't sure if newer technology made up for older quality. Wattage will be about the same.

[dubdub]

Agreed. Amps can run for decades if treated well. For a long time I ran ADS amps that were made late 80s.

Plus, if you set up your system for an external amp, upgrading later is easier. If you go with the headunit power then decide it doesn't have enough punch, you're looking at a complete teardown to rerun wiring.

I am also about appearances of my system. Amps are cheap now. What about just getting a matching 4 channel to go with the sub amp you already have... or sell both amps you have now and buy a 5 channel.

[Nesset]

For a long time I ran ADS amps that were made late 80s.

I have a full A/D/S system in my 2002 lol. I love it.

OT: I would hook it up, and see if you like it. If not, you can sell the amp and get something different if that's the route you want to go.

[benz-tech]

Can't ditch the sub amp, it's an OG Phoenix Gold.

[Nesset]

Can't ditch the sub amp, it's an OG Phoenix Gold.

Those old Phoenix Gold amps are fantastic.

[benz-tech]

Oh yeah they are. I'm not sure if it's class A or not but it's warm and the fan is on even when the volume is turned off. That leads me to believe that it is. I guess I could look it up. Either way it packs a good sub punch at only 350watts

[DRTSRFR]

Head unit power won't hold a candle to those 35 watts. I'd run that amp in a heartbeat.

Right down the hill from me...Dildorado Hills...

[benz-tech]

Actually I moved up to crapron park. Guess I need to change my profile.

[StereoInstaller1]

I need a new head unit anyway so I am considering one with 3 channel pre outs to run this old Alpine 3553 4-channel amp. It's only rated at 35 w rms. It weighs a solid 10 lbs and was made in Japan back when things like this were still made there.
My real question is should I just use the approx 40-50 wpc from a decent Pioneer 9600 head unit or re-wire my non-prem system for an amp.
I am using all premium speakers. And a separate sub and amp.

That deck makes 200 watts only if struck by lightning. We call them "ILS" ratings, in fact. "Yup, this deck makes 200 watts ILS"...god damn I hate salesmen.

Like others have mentioned, deck power can't hold a candle to real amp power. I can get into the real reasons for that, but simply enough: you can't get more than 12 watts out of 12 volts, to get more than 12 watts per channel you need a power supply. Power supplies turn 12 volts into 30 volts, 40 volts, whatever...but they also produce a fuckton of RF interference while making that power...so here is the real reason no deck can make more than 12 watts (or so, this is generalized) per channel is that you can't put a power supply near an FM radio if you expect it to work. If you mount an amp (any brand any model) near your antenna, your reception will go to shit immediately, some can cause total FM blockage.

Enough about the RF issues, lets move on to what actually matters.

Fact is, in terms of "real world" power, that deck is more like 12 watts per, if you use the classic "20Hz to 20Khz @ x power/channel, its more like 8 watts X4 at a respectable distortion level.

That Amp though, it can do 35WPC @ 4 ohms X4 all day, likely can actually make more like 70WX4 @ 2 ohms at least, and will also do a solid 140X2 on a 4 ohm bridged load...while the deck can't even bridge, or run a 2 ohm load. It makes that power by starting with roughly 35 volts...again with that power supply (go look up "amplifier rail voltage" if you really care)

However, as exciting as all that power is, it means nothing without tuning, and the adjustable crossovers and gains are what will make your system sound better. Power is important, of course...but tuning is everything.

So, for the price of the cables you can do a huge quantum leap in performance...my considered, professional advice is DO IT.

Best of luck

Luke

[benz-tech]

Thanks for the input. Since I hadn't been around the stereo game since my eclipse CD player in the '90's I thought technology might have found a good way to make quality sound out of a HU/CD player. it seems that they haven't or at least haven't in the price range I'm looking at for a deck. I will start wiring in the amp using some spare Mercedes wiring that I have laying around. I can't wait to hear the improvement. Now I just need a better HU for around 150 and to follow your tuning guide. Thanks for yor help.
On a side note, I was thinking of a remote location for the rear tweeters since I have pieced together the rear separates. Somewhere semi hidden up in the rear headliner maybe? Thoughts?

[barbierij]

Good luck! I have a couple sets of RCAs if you want them. That alpine will destroy any head unit's output. Some alpine head units dont have internal amps because they blow ass.

[StereoInstaller1]

Please guys, spend a few bucks on good cheap new rcas. If your old ones were over 75 a pair, maybe re use, but otherwise buy Belva or Street Wire for under $10 a set

[benz-tech]

I only need one more pair. Oh and the amp is stable into two ohms for each separate channel. I can't find the rating buts a good indicator of the quality.