E30 Alarm Install Diagram UPDATED

[reelizmpro]

Once again, I need to correct an alarm post.

Yes, you need relays.

The Omega has relays built-in, the Scytek doesn't.

Here we go. The Scytek/Omega only provide ground pulses a few milliseconds to the Central Locking module. That's it. The central locking does the work. You're reinventing the wheel. If you look at the diagrams inside the Omega manual...you'll notice a diagram for installation on cars WITHOUT central locking. You will notice that it states that you must use RELAY's when adding actuators. IF the Omegas had built in relays as you say...why would you need to add relays?

There are none.

Page 42 of Omega manual:

"Plug-In Power Doorlock Interface Port: This security system features a plug-inport for an optional doorlock interface. The 3 pin port on the alarm control module produces a - Ground pulse for lock, a +12 Volts pin for the optional relay coils only ,and a - Ground pulse for unlocking the doors. The doorlock connections needed will depend upon the type of power doorlocks the vehicle has. The vehicle must have existing power doorlocks. If not present, power doorlocks may be added to the vehicle by utilizing one of several Omega power doorlock kits.
The vast majorityof power doorlocks are found as three system types: 3 wire - Ground pulse, 3 wire+12 Volts pulse and 5 wire reversal. The best way to identify a doorlock system isto examine the doorlock switch's wiring. The following pages will show schematicdiagrams of how to connect an optional DLS (also requires two relays) to thesepower doorlock systems. The DLS is a dual relay socket with a harness andconnector to plug into the alarm control module and non-terminated wires to spliceinto the vehicle's wiring. The DLS and two relays are the most universal doorlockinterface available. The relays used with it are standard 30 amp single pole, doublethrow (SPDT) automotive relays.

3 Wire - Ground Pulse Systems: This power doorlock system is indicated by the presence of three wires at the switch. Of these, one will show constant - Ground, regardless of whether the switch is being operated or not (at rest). Of the remaining wire to +12 Volts DLS White wire to two wires, one will show - Ground when the switch is pushed to the "lock" position, Lock wire, "Switch" side. wire, "Motor" sideDLS Brown Wire to and the other wire will show - Ground when the switch is pushed to the "unlock" Unlock wire, "Switch" side. DLS Green wire to Lock Wire, "Motor" side.DLS Blue wire to UnlockCut both Lock and ++ position. With the switch at rest, these two wires will read voltage, usually +12 Unlock wires in carRelayRelay Volts, but in some cases less. The wires from the switches operate doorlock relays or a doorlock control unit with built-in relays. The correct connection point is 5 Wire Reversal Rest At - Ground between the switches and the relays. In most cases, vehicles that have this type of power doorlock system may be wired direct, because all that's needed to operate the vehicle's relays into control are - Ground pulses"

Once again from the Scytek manual:

"Door Unlock Pulse. Selects between one pulse or two pulse operation for the door unlock output.
Vehicles that require two pulses on the proper wire to unlock the doors can be interfaced directly
without the use of relays or any additional circuitry by programming the system for double unlock pulse. "

It's the same thing for single pulse. This is directly from the Scytek manual.

So both Omega and Scytek state they only provide ground pulses unless the car isn't equipped with central locking in which case the add on door lock relay module is required.

http://zoso.no-ip.org/318i-ke.html

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=351121&postcount=150

[Staszek]

Once again, I need to correct an alarm post.

Yes, you need relays.

The Omega has relays built-in, the Scytek doesn't.

The reason you need relays is not due to amperage draw, it's because the lock circuit "rests" on whatever mode it is in. You need the relays for isolation, not higher demand.

The Scytek will work for months just fine, but it will blow up eventually. Again, it's not an amperage issue, its because it basically is a dead short on the output wires.

Second: the black/white you have going to the left door, that won't work. That wire is intended to turn on the dome light when the system is disarmed, AKA "domelight surveillance"

You should find a wire in there (brown/purple?) that shows trigger for both doors, so just the green is needed.

Oh, the "diodes on the parking lights" is only needed if the car has a euro headlight switch.

Luke

So do I just not use the black/white dome surveillance, or is there somewhere else I can connect it so it will turn on the dome light.

[Staszek]

So do I just not use the black/white dome surveillance, or is there somewhere else I can connect it so it will turn on the dome light.

Anyone?

[RobDog]

Why not follow 84drivers wiring diagram? It is a good wiring diagram that works. I used it to install my dads alarm on his 87 325es and it works flawlessly. Use 3 relays. 1 for lock, 1 for unlock, and 1 for the dome light. The black/white should go to dome light relay pin 86. The dome light relay pin 87 goes to the brown/violet of the E30 DOME LIGHT RELAY in the kick panel. Your green door trigger wire should connect inline with the pin 87 wire of the dome light relay that leads to the brown/violet wire in kick panel/E30 DOME LIGHT RELAY, just like in 84drivers diagram. Why reinvent the wheel? Hope this helps seems you have been caught up in wiring for a few weeks. Just install the dam alarm already and enjoy...j/k..lol..Good luck.

[Staszek]

Why not follow 84drivers wiring diagram? It is a good wiring diagram that works. I used it to install my dads alarm on his 87 325es and it works flawlessly. Use 3 relays. 1 for lock, 1 for unlock, and 1 for the dome light. The black/white should go to dome light relay pin 86. The dome light relay pin 87 goes to the brown/violet of the E30 DOME LIGHT RELAY in the kick panel. Your green door trigger wire should connect inline with the pin 87 wire of the dome light relay that leads to the brown/violet wire in kick panel/E30 DOME LIGHT RELAY, just like in 84drivers diagram. Why reinvent the wheel? Hope this helps seems you have been caught up in wiring for a few weeks. Just install the dam alarm already and enjoy...j/k..lol..Good luck.

Haha true, I just was trying to do do with less relays. I wanted to keep it as clean as possible under there.

[Staszek]

Ok did my install I just used drivers post. Everything worked out great except........my parking light flashing. Here is what happened, I click the remote, the right side flashes perfectly, the left side the rear side marker flashes, but the front and rear parking lights don't. I checked the connection and redid it just in case still no dice. All the lights work normally outside of the alarm use.

[Staszek]

OK so I figured out why the left side would not blink.

I am pretty sure I mentioned this car was electrical nightmare underneath when I started pulling it apart, so I first brought everything back to stock then started my install of the alarm.

Well I basically followed Driver's diagram exact except for the trunk trigger I went right to the brown wire on the switch instead of using a diode. Everything worked great except the left side wouldnt blink. It was driving me nuts I checked the connections twice and then I am realizing I used the same connections to the light switch the PO used since they were already there. I noticed the left rear didnt blink when I bought the car but the bulb was also out so I didnt think about it.

Last night I rechecked the wires and realized he had hooked up to the wrong left side wire, he hooked up to Gray and Red, not even sure what that is.

So basically the PO had it hooked up wrong for who knows how many years and just left it half ass with only the right side blinking.

I should have known better then to trust anything he wired and should have looked at the wires by themselves.

Anyway thank you for everyone who contributed to this thread. I am going to update my diagram this week to reflect what I did so the bad one is laying around.

Here are a few pics, since I plan on removing the airbag wheel, I removed the airbag computer and zip tied the alarm brain and the relays in that open space to make the install cleaner and not have them falling out if I remove the knee panel. I love it up there, I am not as professional as you guys but I definitely didnt want it looking like the rats nest from before.



Also cleaned up all the wiring for the light delay and the CLU, those will have to be zip tied up later, I still need to clean up the wiring around the speaker area.



While I was wiring I decided to add a secondary trunk light, love this feature.

[moosefist]

Running into an issue with my install and the same scytek a20 unit as used in this thread. I mainly followed the schematics from the other aftermarket alarm thread mainly since this did not exist when I started (relays, diodes and all). I installed the RAP relays on pg 3 as well. I used 6A diodes on the lights and omitted the trunk trigger, but that is the only place I strayed. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=220237

I turned it on for the first time and success. Lock, unlock, beeps, lights, everything. After a few clicks of the remote the problem started.

The issue - When I try to lock the system via the doors, remotes or trunk the central locking locks everything and then automatically unlocks the system almost immediately. It seems the only way I can avoid this is when sitting inside the car -- I can manually press the drivers lock down and then it will engage the central locking and stay locked (not terribly helpful since I cannot lock while outside the car).

The battery was very low on power and I have brought it to the store for charging. Not sure if this could be a weak battery issue. Could a bad relay cause this lock then unlock issue? I used cheap amazon relays. I am 99% certain my wiring otherwise is all correct. My drivers door lock cylinder does not turn turn all the way counter clock-wise, but it has been that way since well before installing the alarm. I have not bothered installing the valet switch yet.

I have tried disconnecting the alarm and the issue persists. Any thoughts, help or suggestions are appreciated.

[RobDog]

This sounds like a problem with your central locking and not the alarm. When the central locking system detects a fault like a door opened, bad door lock solenoid, over current, etc. it will default to unlock. When I installed my dads alarm it did the same thing as yours. I unplugged the passenger solenoid and everything worked. I then realized the door lock mechanism was gummed up and overloading the solenoid. I lubed up the lock, hooked up the solenoid, and everything worked. I would take some door cards off and do some observing.