analog clock install

[KIRIEIW]

Thanks for the replys.... i just figured this crap out my self, lookie here :bow:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=311765

[e28]

The analog clock bracket is part # 62-13-1-380-009. I got it from the dealer for $4.14, tax included.

Does anybody have the bracket and wants to sell it (62 13 1 380 009)? I WTB it. Does your dealer still have it?

[jllphan]

This install is well documented throughout this forum, but a few things I have not seen mentioned, that might help some of you out. This info is purely for those that are going from a 13 button OBC....

First, there are NOT two brown/white wires on the 13 button OBC harness that can get confused, rather a brown/white and a brown/grey lead. The brown/white lead is the one you want to use for the illumination/ground (31g). Be careful not to use the brown/grey lead, as this goes to the instrument cluster/fuel gauge light. Pretty sure any of you that have had SI board/speedo/gauge cluster issues is purely from making this mistake.

Also, the pigtail for the euro clock that I sourced had wire colors that were different colors than ANY I can find in these forums. That said, I've listed all possible colors below along w/ the corresponding lead you should tap into on the car's factory wiring loom. These possible color combos are listed as Harness A, B and C.

Euro/Analog Clock pins-----------Harness(A)---------Harness(B)-------Harness(C)---------------Factory Wiring
Power (30)----------------------------Black/White----------Blue/Black----------Green/Red--------------------Red/White
Illumination Ground (31g)-----------Brown-----------------Brown--------------Brown/Black------------------Brown/White(do NOT confuse with Brown/Grey)
Ground (31)--------------------------Blue/White------------Grey/Blue----------Brown-------------------------Brown
Illumination Power (58k)------------White/Black-----------Brown/Black-------Grey/Red----------------------Grey/Red

Given a lot of folks use a mirror motor harness (the connection fits the analog clock perfectly), these three possibilities are probably from right side, left side and the third being the proper analog clock pigtail. So which ever you wind up, just disregard the other two above during the install.

And lastly, just a reminder to never just start cutting wires when doing this. The OBC is tied into SEVERAL other electronics on the car (speedo, tach, fuel guage and door chime to name a few), it's always best to work with one lead at a time. Actually, I would recommend using t-taps instead of cutting splicing wires, as this will allow you to keep your factoring wiring/OBC plug in tact and more than likely prevent shorting any wiring.

[AndrewBird]

T-Taps are the worst invention in wiring history. Do not use them. They create shitty connections that often damage the wire and can come apart very easily. A proper crimp with a decent pair of crimpers is the way to go.

I prefer to use uninsulated butt connectors and then shrink tubing over that. The uninsulated connectors are about the same size as the od of the wire jacket and make for a nice small connection.

[jllphan]

T-Taps are the worst invention in wiring history. Do not use them. They create shitty connections that often damage the wire and can come apart very easily. A proper crimp with a decent pair of crimpers is the way to go.

To each their own, but I've used them on several projects with zero issues over the past 20 years, lol. Of course, you always want to use the proper gauge tap for the wire your tapping into --- maybe that was your issue.

And I'll agree with you that a t-tap may not give you as much contact surface area as a barrel connector, the amount of current in this application is extremely small and would not impact performance.

At the end of the day, it's the right connection for the right application, if this was going to be a permanent installation, i would have likely used a barrel connector, but I may go back to the OBC at some point.