An E30 convertible top install
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This is a sticky topic.
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Do you think it would be easier, removing the frame and then installing the top?Leave a comment:
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well that sucks happen to me on photobucket to a while back.
I thinks has to do with to many pics with a month period or some thing like that...
or you deleted them by accident..
so you might have to wait before you can post some more pics..
Kind a sucks to cause pics explains a lot...Leave a comment:
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The OP does mention blown frame shocks. These are especially critical if you have an electric top since they take 380N per side of strain off your expensive electric motors. Same PN for the both electric and manual tops and the ones I offer include new plastic sleeves which were NLA last time I checked.
Just sayin,Leave a comment:
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great write up..
Doesn't look that complicated, it's to do it in the right order and to make sure the glue is in the right place..
I would attempt this when the time comes as i found out this is the second top on my car.Some goodies i found while cleaning 30 year old dirt under the cover.
This would probably take me a week....Leave a comment:
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I'm currently wondering if I should buy a frame/top or buy the top itself. Which would be the easier route?Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the writeup, I'm exhausted from reading it. How has the top held up since you installed it? I'm looking into getting a new one. On the ebay seller you named's site they suggest buying tension straps for 130. Should they be replaced also?Leave a comment:
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Thank you. The fit seems a little better win the corner is in between the flaps. It somewhat makes sense that I could fill it with glue. The tech from topsonline is supposed to call.It been along time! Glad to see this write up has had some use. IIRC , and I cant check right now because its raining, both those flaps go on the inside of the top so the pillar is in between the main outside layer and the first flap. Otherwise that elastic strap would be stuck between the top and frame. So the pillar would slide in where your blue line is. If your current frame doesn't have a top and you dont have something to go by I would try to dry fit the top on the frame just to see where the flaps end up. Hope this helps.
BTW my parts top had the elastic strap screwed to the bar like so. The new EZon top I ordered does not have that elastic though.
Last edited by moosefist; 05-05-2017, 10:43 AM.Leave a comment:
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It been along time! Glad to see this write up has had some use. IIRC , and I cant check right now because its raining, both those flaps go on the inside of the top so the pillar is in between the main outside layer and the first flap. Otherwise that elastic strap would be stuck between the top and frame. So the pillar would slide in where your blue line is. If your current frame doesn't have a top and you dont have something to go by I would try to dry fit the top on the frame just to see where the flaps end up. Hope this helps.Leave a comment:
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To clarify a little better the middle flap that is not folded is there the piece that is glued to the rear side rails starts. The folded flap is for the c pillar.
Trying to figure out whether to stuff the c-pillar corner in between the exterior and the 2 flaps, or in between the flaps. I hope this pic helps illustrate. Green or blue?
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When doing the c pillers, where does the corner of the pill go on the top? Under the 1 flap or both?
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So did anyone find out why the window develops a weird kink/bend? I've done everything to my top except the frame lift supports. I notice the beam above the plastic window sits very close to the chassis when the top is put down, I'm wondering if the lift supports somehow push the beam away from the chassis and closer towards the lid motor? In my close observation doing so would solve the problem.Leave a comment:

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