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    '92 E30 Convertible Top Cover won't raise

    Hi guys,

    I've got a 92 E30 Convertible with an automatic top that has generally continued to function pretty well over the years. But after removing the hard top off that was on for the winter yesterday, the soft top was stowed for 4 months down, and now the convertible to cover won't raise.

    When I tried to put the top up, it unlocked okay. But then the rear cover was struggling to raise -- and I heard the motor slipping a gear or two in the process. It was like it was only partially supported; it was like it needed two cables to raise it...and only one was connected. I think there was even a sickening grinding/cracking sound as well, particularly from the rear right of the car's trunk.

    I tried to manually support the top cover with one hand, while pushing the "raise" button, to see if it would raise fully, but it's a no go. When I let it go and pressed the "lower" button to lower it, the hard top cover quickly fell down with a bang.

    Meanwhile, it's as if the motor itself has full power and is still works just fine, but something isn't right in the linkage to the soft top cover.

    Also, it worked just fine before the winter and before I put the hard top on for the winter.

    Any thoughts? I figured I'd disconnect the motor and then check things out...but I'm reluctant to do that again for fear of throwing off the timing and all that as that's apparently a bitch to get reset.

    Maybe it's me, but I can't seem to find the E30 links that used to be up there per going through all the motor stuff, linkages, etc. Any suggestions, I'm all ears as the top is stuck down. Thanks!

    #2
    The gears are stripped in the boot lid motor (the one in the middle of the trunk). Common problem. You can source a good used motor for $70-100. After replacing it, you will probably have to re-synch the full top operation. Lots of internet info out there. Search here and Google. There is also n E30 cabrio group on Yahoo.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1992 325i Cabrio
    1988 320i Touring
    2000 M5
    1977 530i
    2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
    BMWCCA
    E30CCA

    Comment


      #3
      In the meantime, if you have to get the top up, you can release both motors in the trunk and raise/lower the top manually. This will guarantee that the top operation will need to be re-synched before it will work again, but if you are in a bind it is your only option.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
      1992 325i Cabrio
      1988 320i Touring
      2000 M5
      1977 530i
      2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
      BMWCCA
      E30CCA

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, Cory! The top is down and is safely in a covered garage until I can try fixing it in a few weeks. Basically, I was able to get the soft top back down and locked into place by pressing the top button, so hopefully I won't need synchronization - as it's at one end of the timing sequence?

        The one thing that I'm wondering is if there was a second cable to the convertible top cover, that might have disconnected and snapped instead...and the bad sounds were the motor struggling to work - with maybe 2-3 slipped gear sounds? With the boot lid up partially (I held it in place to partially support the weight), I only saw one cable attached to the boot lid. Any thoughts on this?

        The other thing - It looks like there's a gear out there that might be the replacement for what you're talking about. Is this it? If so, can I repair the motor?



        Many thanks again for your insights on this, Cory.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by codyep3
          I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
          2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
          1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
          1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
          2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
          2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
          2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
          2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
          2010 F650gs twin
          2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

          Comment


            #6
            Are you talking about these cables?
            Originally posted by codyep3
            I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
            2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
            1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
            1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
            2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
            2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
            2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
            2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
            2010 F650gs twin
            2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

            Comment


              #7
              Maybe, Todd? Is that a shot of the other side of boot lid motor -- inside the well that the top is stowed in? I couldn't look inside the well because the whole top is still stowed in there and the lid is closed.

              In trying to open the lid, I was able to identify a single Bowden cable that was attached to the boot lid (I think it was on the driver's side, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it.) But I didn't see two Bowden cables. So I'm wondering if one got disconnected or snapped.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by thoomp View Post
                Thanks, Cory! The top is down and is safely in a covered garage until I can try fixing it in a few weeks. Basically, I was able to get the soft top back down and locked into place by pressing the top button, so hopefully I won't need synchronization - as it's at one end of the timing sequence?

                The one thing that I'm wondering is if there was a second cable to the convertible top cover, that might have disconnected and snapped instead...and the bad sounds were the motor struggling to work - with maybe 2-3 slipped gear sounds? With the boot lid up partially (I held it in place to partially support the weight), I only saw one cable attached to the boot lid. Any thoughts on this?

                The other thing - It looks like there's a gear out there that might be the replacement for what you're talking about. Is this it? If so, can I repair the motor?



                Many thanks again for your insights on this, Cory.
                That link is very interesting. I've never seen them before, but it looks like someone has taken the initiative to produce replacement gears for the boot lid motor. It's not an OEM part. Those are the gears that strip. I've just never seen them for sale individually. Maybe I'm out of the loop. I gave up on fixing my EM top again a few years ago and just converted to manual. Those gears would be worth checking out.

                Regarding your question about the cables, all they do is lock the boot cover in place after it's been lowered.

                The parts that raise and lower the boot lid are #2 and #4 in this diagram.



                They are either missing from Todd Black 88's picture, or that is a manual top car.

                Part #4 connects directly to the motor. Please also note that part #2 is held onto the ball at the end of part #4 by part #32, which is a small clip that's barely visible when assembled.

                Cory
                1992 325i Cabrio
                1988 320i Touring
                2000 M5
                1977 530i
                2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
                BMWCCA
                E30CCA

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks, Cory. That makes sense; this way there are no Bowden cables actually raising/lowering the boot lid, right?

                  Where should I be looking to inspect Parts 2,4, etc? Just want to be 100% certain that if I drop the motor again - everything will remain aligned so ideally I won't have to resync everything.

                  Also, I'd like to double check everything externally before moving the motor and taking it apart to inspect the gear...and then ordering that gear (which I may not be able to return). Or can I inspect that gear somehow without taking the motor apart?

                  You rock, sir. Thanks, Cory.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    This thread is making me sad that I converted my top to manual. When I got the car I looked through the service records and noticed how many times the car was in the shop for something auto-top related, and it was broken at the time. I just ripped it out ASAP.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by thoomp View Post
                      Thanks, Cory. That makes sense; this way there are no Bowden cables actually raising/lowering the boot lid, right?

                      Where should I be looking to inspect Parts 2,4, etc? Just want to be 100% certain that if I drop the motor again - everything will remain aligned so ideally I won't have to resync everything.

                      Also, I'd like to double check everything externally before moving the motor and taking it apart to inspect the gear...and then ordering that gear (which I may not be able to return). Or can I inspect that gear somehow without taking the motor apart?

                      You rock, sir. Thanks, Cory.
                      They are on the trunk wall, inside the boot lid cover, attached to the piece I posted in the picture.
                      Yes I posted a manual top car so the “cables “ you mentioned would be easily visible. It will be obvious once you lift the lid.

                      If the lid won’t open, or only opens on one side, one of the locks won’t release.

                      Anytime you drop any of the motors, they need to be resynced...........usually.

                      It’s not difficult. I got it down to about 1-2 minutes.

                      If you disconnect the cover motor, and the cables are still attached to the motor linkage, you should be able to just lift the lid. The motor keeps tension on the cables, which keeps the lid locked. Disengage the motor, no tension.
                      Originally posted by codyep3
                      I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                      2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                      1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                      1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                      2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                      2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                      2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                      2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                      2010 F650gs twin
                      2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'm doing a full writeup on the electric top mechanism, alignment procedure, etc - all of it. Will post in this tech forum when ready. In the interim you can see some pics and analysis here



                        great posts @Todd Black 88 @cory58
                        I BUY/SELL REFURBISHED CM5907s & CM5908s

                        HOWTOs:
                        DB vert plastic bumpers
                        OEM Keys
                        MTech1 docs

                        88 ix Lach/Card
                        91 ic Calypso 3.1
                        86 Cosmo 2.7

                        OEM+ or bust!


                        reelizmpro: I will always be an e30 guy.. I still do all of my own labor
                        TrentW: There's just something so right about a well-built M20 in an E30
                        e30m3s54turbo: I save my money for tuner parts.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Can't thank you enough! Looking forward to the write-up; hoping to take a look at the boot lid motor next weekend. Cheers.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hi guys – Well, I finally got access again last weekend to my E30. I’m now in even more of a jam per the convertible boot lid motor, for a couple of reasons. But I took a lot of photos...

                            I was able to easily get to the motor in the trunk. From what I can tell, I’m guessing that the gear teeth are okay – but maybe the separation has happened due the emergency brake spring and I just need the hose clamp solution. The grinding was brief, so hopefully any gear damage was minimal.
                            Here’s a shot of the gear. What do you think?



                            Here’s a shot of the motor without it the emergency latch pulled. Does it look too separated?



                            And here it is released:



                            Here’s the hose clamp link fix that I’m hoping to try:


                            But in trying to remove the motor, sure enough, the center hex bolt immediately stripped and I’ve just ordered a screw extractor. Auuugh!

                            Here's a shot before I stripped the hex bolt, but with the lid raised:



                            Here’s a shot of the stripped hex bolt:



                            Per the RealOEM diagram, I can’t figure out which bolt to order to replace it with. Maybe #30?



                            So assuming I can remove that center hex screw, I would then be able to remove the boot lid motor, clamp it tight with C-clamps, put two hose clamps on there, and then reinstall everything.

                            And then…assuming I have everything perfectly aligned, then what? @ToddBlack– You’ve got syncing down to 1-2 minutes? I’d love to know how to do that as synching seems admittedly overwhelming.

                            Thanks!

                            - Seth

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