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Here's my vert... Back is a little low for taste, front could drop a slight amount. I want to take it to do some lapping and be able to cruise comfortably so don't want to drop it on its face.
ST Suspension (shocks and springs)
Derlin Offset CABs
E90 Hats
Spring Pads
I just installed (three weeks ago) Eibach Pro springs (for cabrio) and Bilstein Sports all around and I got to say that the combination is just great! The soft springs balance the stiffness of the billies. PLus, I dig the stance (see signature photo). I did not need the E90 drop hats with these springs. Cheers Jeff!
I'm running H&R OE (minimal drop) sport springs and KYB stuts/shocks on a 325i convertible. Ride and handling are great, but I may cut a coil out of the front springs, as it rides a touch too high in the front. It would be worse in a 318 due to the lighter engine.
Yeah but I'd be running eibach Pros. Doesn't really answer my question haha
I'm running H&R OE (minimal drop) sport springs and KYB stuts/shocks on a 325i convertible. Ride and handling are great, but I may cut a coil out of the front springs, as it rides a touch too high in the front. It would be worse in a 318 due to the lighter engine.
I'm new to the forum but I love E30s!
I'm actually still kind of new to the scene.
Anyways, my reason for reopening this thread is as follows:
I've done all my research and whatever else, but I still have questions. Yes I've read through this entire thread and looked other places, but I'm still seeking information.
So, I drive a 1992 318i Convertible and am looking to upgrade my suspension. I understand that Eibach no longer makes specific springs for the 318, but still does for the 325. I also understand that the 325 is heavier in the front than the 318.
My question is this: If I were to purchase an Eibach Pro Kit for the late model (like my 318i) 325i cabrio, with the addition of the 15mm drophats that fit on top of the spring, do you guys think I would be pretty much parallel? How much drop will I lose using 325 springs with my lighter M42 engine?
Thanks for the reply, I had heard rumors, but I don't see many IF any maintained cars out here, and the few I have seen are usually lowered. So all I ever see s rear camber. Mine is subtle, and I assumed it was meant to be that way. Now to get under the red car and check out its sub frame bushings.
Question here regarding a full rear suspension rebuild with all stock rubber parts. I replaced all the bushings in the rear, new shocks, shock mounts, wheel bearings ETC. Did these cars come with some rear camber built in? Mine still has some camber on the rear. I have heard rumors BMW did this for handling?? Is it true??
yes. and lowering it only makes the camber higher.. it's usually what i consider "excessive". :/
This spring I'm buying the weld-on tab correction kit. Had enough of it.
Question here regarding a full rear suspension rebuild with all stock rubber parts. I replaced all the bushings in the rear, new shocks, shock mounts, wheel bearings ETC. Did these cars come with some rear camber built in? Mine still has some camber on the rear. I have heard rumors BMW did this for handling?? Is it true??
Eccentrics have been known to go out of adjustment. The weld-in kits can slip as well, but it's less of a problem, you can tack weld the bolt in place once you have the correct alignment dialed in.
There's also the Ireland Engineering Posi-Lock kit that looks promising. It looks a lot harder to arrive at the correct settings, but once you have it set they don't look like they will slip at all.
For any of the RTAB kits, you might need to cut away some of the subframe bushing and modify a wrench so you can reach the adjustment while it's on the car. I aligned mine with the subframe off of the car, wheels installed, and the subframe supported on a block of wood to simulate the ride height of the car. 100% worthwhile mod, but it requires a bit of effort to make it worthwhile. Go enjoy more rear grip and better tire life.
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