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The Cabrio Suspension Thread
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Has anyone tried OEM sport springs in the front only from h&r? M3 springs seem to be a good way to go for an inch up front. The hr oem plus lower the m3 front .25" and have about a 20% stiffer spring rate than the stock m3 springs. I am thinking this would bring the front down to level with my rear and give a slightly tighter feel up front. Interested in experiences before doing the labor.
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Originally posted by Republican View PostI feel so bad. I'm such a newb.
60% of the terms in this thread go over my head. I feel like I'm watching a documentary on craniology. I did read through the first 20 pages or so, and feel like I just slept through an algebra class.
For my cabriolet, I want a smooth ride. I don't want it lowered. I'm running stock wheels with stock tire size. I may grab a hardtop, if I can ever find one.
Can somebody just suggest a setup that I can order and then give to my mechanic, and perhaps explain why that setup will work well?
I've seen dozens of your setups, but being unaware of the basic terms make it difficult to understand what setup I'm actually looking for.
Created a new thread explaining: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...09#post4686309
Depending on age and wear, you will also want to replace your front and rear upper strut mounts. These are fairly inexpensive but the labor is the killer if you have to do the job twice. If you replace them when you do the struts and springs there is no additional labor cost.
If you have specific questions just ask- most of us here are happy to help.
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I feel so bad. I'm such a newb.
60% of the terms in this thread go over my head. I feel like I'm watching a documentary on craniology. I did read through the first 20 pages or so, and feel like I just slept through an algebra class.
For my cabriolet, I want a smooth ride. I don't want it lowered. I'm running stock wheels with stock tire size. I may grab a hardtop, if I can ever find one.
Can somebody just suggest a setup that I can order and then give to my mechanic, and perhaps explain why that setup will work well?
I've seen dozens of your setups, but being unaware of the basic terms make it difficult to understand what setup I'm actually looking for.
Created a new thread explaining: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...09#post4686309
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by BaltimoreBimmer View PostOk, anyone else have input in regards to bottoming out? I currently have kW v1s on my e46 set to the highest settings (within spec) in both the front and rear. The rears are crazy low and look broken when I have 4-5 people in my car. I also have to religiously avoid pot holes and even just weird road bumps that aren't even holes. It's really annoying and I do not want to have my vert be like that. I don't care one bit about looks for my e30. Stock height doesn't scare me off. Any options? Or do all the suspensions available from places like pelican parts lower from stock...
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Any chance for a low front shot to show pan clearance????
Originally posted by McGyver View Post1987 325i Vert on e36 m3 BavAuto Sport springs
It lowered the car about 1.5-2" and took away most of the floaty feeling from the factory springs. At the same time, the still feels pretty smooth over rough roads and is high enough to not have to worry about scraping or breaking an oil pan. (It's also for sale http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=382495)
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I have soft eibach springs and bistein sports and it bottoms out with full load. three people and subs in the truck. The ride is pretty nice with two people and riding around. The springs get easily weighted down.
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Ok, anyone else have input in regards to bottoming out? I currently have kW v1s on my e46 set to the highest settings (within spec) in both the front and rear. The rears are crazy low and look broken when I have 4-5 people in my car. I also have to religiously avoid pot holes and even just weird road bumps that aren't even holes. It's really annoying and I do not want to have my vert be like that. I don't care one bit about looks for my e30. Stock height doesn't scare me off. Any options? Or do all the suspensions available from places like pelican parts lower from stock...
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by BaltimoreBimmer View PostCan anyone comment about how well these suspension set ups handle 4 adults? Does the rear look ridiculously low from the outside? Does it ever bottom out? I'm concerned about the practicality of my convertible (oxymoron?).
While I have never had my e30 in Baltimore, I took it to D.C. a couple months ago. With 2 adults and some luggage and wearing 15x8 wheels with 205/55 tires on H&R Sport, Bilstein Sport, 15mm drop hats, and stiff aftermarket swaybars, the ride was...good. Not great, but good. The potholes were a challenge and I spent some time dodging them.
I semi-daily my e30 and with no passengers (just me) things are a little more relaxed but I do still find myself dodging questionable transitions into parking lots. Speed bumps are not really an issue but the jarring aspect of potholes drives me nuts. This is also a product of stiff swaybars (which I need to swap out) but the suspension does not help.
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Can anyone comment about how well these suspension set ups handle 4 adults? Does the rear look ridiculously low from the outside? Does it ever bottom out? I'm concerned about the practicality of my convertible (oxymoron?).
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1987 325i Vert on e36 m3 BavAuto Sport springs
With hardtop:
Without hardtop:
It lowered the car about 1.5-2" and took away most of the floaty feeling from the factory springs. At the same time, the still feels pretty smooth over rough roads and is high enough to not have to worry about scraping or breaking an oil pan. (It's also for sale http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=382495)
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To clarify, most coilover springs are 2.25, 60mm or 2.5".
60mm are least common here in America, but very common in Europe.
Ground Control primarily uses 2.5", except for divorced rear assemblies where 2.25 is preferred.
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I second that Patrick, most coilover springs are 55mm or 60mm inner diameter.
H&R's you have fit oem struts set up only but you could adjust them by using thinner spring pads and e90 (?) Top hats.
JOM's use a dual size spring, 55 or 60 (?) Lower and oem hat size on top, adjuster replace nut that holds shock in strut.
Heres pic of 55mm and gc c/c plate... http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?albumid=7557
And lower side can be seen here... http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?albumid=7028
Dont have pics of Joms but look in their group buy for examples.
AlohaLast edited by fporro; 08-05-2015, 11:08 AM.
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Another tire & wheel size for those doing research. 15x8 ET20 Rota Grid Concave Full Royal Silver with 205/55/15 Kumho Ecsta 4xII tires on H&R Sport (convertible) springs, 15mm drop hats, Bilstein Sport struts/shocks.
Outside, before settling:
And after:
This is the 4th different wheel/tire combo on the same setup so if you scroll back you get a sense for how tire size and wheel specs impacts the overall appearance.
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Originally posted by fporro View PostWhy not keep you JOM's adjusters/shocks and use correct eight and rate springs from from GC or H&R, so simple
Find correct rate for 318 on spring master list http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40472 or close to it, buy them separately as not available as kit anymore.
while you at it buy camber/caster plates so it all works the correct way.
triple rate baby.
This is an interesting concept and one that I am interested in. I currently am on JOM coilovers, set pretty low, with no adjuster or rear spring pad and the ride is extremely harsh, always bottoming out. I am thinking about swapping to H&R sports and bilsteins with e90 drophats to get a softer ride with a conservative drop but this would be a cheap experiment.
Can you confirm if H&R sports will sit properly on the JOM front strut housings and adjusters? Obviously these are not matched for each other and my gut feeling is the shocks are the real reason why I am currently crashing over every crack in the road.
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