Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

[estoguy]

My supplier got me a water pump from Hepu. Been great so far.

[moapys]

Piston dings following valve-dance; how bad it too bad?

Hi - I just suffered an "interference situation"; not a belt breakage - but an idler shaft shearing...same effect - valve/piston collision.

My question: Beyond the usual bent valves (all intake <?>) and broken rockers (all six intakes <!>), I have one badly nicked piston top. I'd say that the depth is as much as a 1/16" in a few locations.

If I grind/polish out the high spots, is there much of a chance of "burning through" the injured piston? Thanks for your opinions.

Paul

[itskingsteelo]

going to be doing this soon, anyone in LA want to give me a hand? ill buy some pizza and beers??

[worangejuice]

itskingsteelo
Yo,I;m in Koreatown, I have tools and a FREE weekend, PM me homie

[ivangene]

revival
any time estimates for a first timer
also list of "while you're in there" items
TIA - Great write up

[6670charger]

This is a really good write up. I did mine a couple of years ago with the help of about three other write-ups. The only thing I'd do different the next time is use gasket sealer on the water pump to hopefully avoid leakage, although mine isn't bad.

Gonna have to do this all over again unfortunately, as I'm seeping oil from several places and probably need to do the front crankshaft seal, the head gasket, and the oil pan gasket. Can't do the first two without taking out the timing belt. Will bookmark this, though for reference, as I'm sure there will be things I'll forget.

[estoguy]

revival
any time estimates for a first timer
also list of "while you're in there" items
TIA - Great write up

I'd factor a full afternoon. Don't rush it. Definitely pull the hood, makes it so much easier. My buddy made me up a couple of studs to thread into hood to make reinstalling/aligning easier. As long as you have traced out the location of the mounts before taking it off, should be a cinch.

While in there:
If you don't know how long the water pump has in, do it along with the thermostat. After, every other belt change, including the thermostat

Cam shaft seal (seal and the o-ring)

Spark plugs (if it's time)

Valve clearance check

Alternator and PS belts

Any old rad hoses, since you gotta pull it out anyway. To be smart, mark the hoses and where they fit. My buddy and I used some nail polish, and used different numbers of dots on the main hoses and where they fit. If you are replacing any, mark them the same way.

[sdhakko]

Material List

Let me start by saying that I am a big time noobie. I did some work on my 7.3 diesel before buying this car but that is about it.

Just purchased my first e30 and looking to get a good material list for doing a timing belt, 30k tune-up and oil change.

Please add to my list of things that should be changed while I have things torn apart.

Oil (10W40? It's what PO used)/Oil Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Cap/Rotor/Plugs
Coolant Hoses
Coolant
Timing Belt
Alternator Belt
AC Belt
Power Steering Belt
Tensioner
Water Pump/Gasket (Metal or Composite impeller?)
Thermostat
Cam shaft seal (seal and the o-ring)

This is my starting list, honestly there are a crap-ton of other things that come in kits and what not and I have no idea if they really need to be replaced, or if the vendor is just trying to sell me more stuff I don't need.

Thank you very much for the help in advance!

[e30onBBSs]

Let me start by saying that I am a big time noobie. I did some work on my 7.3 diesel before buying this car but that is about it.

Just purchased my first e30 and looking to get a good material list for doing a timing belt, 30k tune-up and oil change.

Please add to my list of things that should be changed while I have things torn apart.

Oil (10W40? It's what PO used)/Oil Filter
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Cap/Rotor/Plugs
Coolant Hoses
Coolant
Timing Belt
Alternator Belt
AC Belt
Power Steering Belt
Tensioner
Water Pump/Gasket (Metal or Composite impeller?)
Thermostat
Cam shaft seal (seal and the o-ring)

This is my starting list, honestly there are a crap-ton of other things that come in kits and what not and I have no idea if they really need to be replaced, or if the vendor is just trying to sell me more stuff I don't need.

Thank you very much for the help in advance!

I would get 2 water pump gaskets just in case. I made a mistake tightening one of the water pump bolts and instead of just getting a new bolt, I had to also get a new water pump gasket which made it a lot longer job, waiting for parts. Also you need a torque wrench that can do 16 ft lbs. I broke the bolt because I was lazy and thought I wouldn't over tighten it. Also I would pour coolant into the water pump once it's installed, and wait a bit to check for any leaks. Even after I torqued mine there was a small leak, which adds another few hours to get back in there and tighten up the bolts.

I would get a new spring too for the tensioner, and new hose clamps if they are at all rusted.

Also when I did the job I didn't tighten the crank disc enough even though it felt and looked tight, so make sure to torque that too. When I put everything back together the water pump pulley and crank disc barely rubbed, but created sparks. When I tore into it there was about 1mm between the crank disc and the holes it bolts into. I tightened it up and was back in business.

As someone else said too definitely pull the hood, and take the grill off too. The job is way easier on your back and just in general if you sit or crouch and do the job through where the grill would be.

You are also going to probably need a 22mm wrench or deep socket to hold the crank still as you undo the 6 bolts on the crank disk, and the thin 32mm wrench to undo the mechanical fan. It's reverse threads to righty loosey lefty tighty.

[Das Delfin]

Points of interest:

1 - don't be like me and think you're going to reuse the tensioner pin and spring only to find out the last mechanic installed the tensioner without a spring and you have to wait before a $6 part can be delivered to your house because none of the parts stores around you carry one and by the way, your coworkers are douchebags and won't switch their days off with you so you can fix your car sooner. So it'll be a week before you can drive your car again. Dicks.

2 - it's a one man job except for when you put the hood back on at the end. But it's worth taking it off.

3 - bavauto has tools you can buy to remove the fan clutch and water pump pulley. Also pick up a 22mm deep socket to use with your breaker bar.

4 - it's super important to scrape the old water pump gasket off before you put a new one on. And clean the surface, too.

5 - when you are filling it back up with coolant, it's important to purge all air from the system asap. Leave the front end on jack stands and put everything back together except your top rad hose. First fill your motor through the expansion tank very very slowly so you don't see any air bubbles come up through the hose. Then wait a bit and top it off. Next, attach the top rad hose to the rad and turn it around so you can pour coolant directly into the rad. Start with about a gallon or so and check on the level by taking the hose off and sticking your finger in there (I think mine took two gallons but it was a while ago so just go by feel and check every once in a while). Once you have it pretty much filled, twist the hose around and install it like normal. Then start your car, run heater full blast, and after it's up to full operating temp past the blue on the temp gauge, crack open the bleed screw for a bit until no air bubbles come out. I've read about people having tons of problems bleeding their system but I've never had an issue doing it this way.

6 - I went with the Graf metal water pump

7 - my alternator belt was so tight that even with the alt loosened all the way, I had to remove the water pump pulley and reinstall it with the belt fit inside the groove. I checked like 10 times to see if something wasn't right or if the belt was caught up on something but it wasn't. It was ridiculous

8 - might want to replace the alt tightener arm bracket and its bolt (the ones with the teeth gears that you turn to tighten the alt pulley) mine had weakened and disintegrated to the point where it wouldn't tighten properly.

9 - there's a grounding strap for the hood that attaches at the drivers side hood mount. If yours is broken or missing, grab a new one.

10 - I guess our cars prefer the standard copper spark plugs, which, incidentally, none of the auto parts stores around carry, so I had to order them from pelican.

But most importantly, label everything. I put all my bolts in zip lock bags and write on the bags what the bolts are for and in what order they were removed from the car. Really helps speed things along when you're at the end putting it back together. And I do 10w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer

[sdhakko]

Thank you both for your help!

Das- Do you have a picture of:

"8 - might want to replace the alt tightener arm bracket and its bolt (the ones with the teeth gears that you turn to tighten the alt pulley) mine had weakened and disintegrated to the point where it wouldn't tighten properly."

A lot of things are coming up when I search for that.

Also, is blue coolant all the same? Are these cars picky on what type is put in the rad?

Also it seems that the PO always used Valvoline for oil, any recommendations on brand? Does it matter and is anything extra required if I wanted to go synthetic?

[e30onBBSs]

Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

Thank you both for your help!



Das- Do you have a picture of:



"8 - might want to replace the alt tightener arm bracket and its bolt (the ones with the teeth gears that you turn to tighten the alt pulley) mine had weakened and disintegrated to the point where it wouldn't tighten properly."



A lot of things are coming up when I search for that.



Also, is blue coolant all the same? Are these cars picky on what type is put in the rad?



Also it seems that the PO always used Valvoline for oil, any recommendations on brand? Does it matter and is anything extra required if I wanted to go synthetic?

Here are some pics of the bracket. The whole bracket is the hockey stick looking thing, it connects on the left by a 10 mm and the gear is a 19mm. You can get the parts and bracket on ebay and other places I'm sure.

And definitely go synthetic there is no reason besides cost not too.

If you are having trouble getting part numbers for the bracket or the gear thing I have a link to them on realoem, mine is messed up so I will need to be replacing the screw and gear soon.

[estoguy]

A few things on the last couple of posts...

- you don't necessarily need a thin 32mm wrench. I used a regular one just fine on the fan.

- It is possible to take off the hood on your own. Probably helps if you're taller. I', 6'3", and I had little issue with it... YMMV

- The sparkplugs you're looking for are the NGK ZGR5A. V-power, not G-power.

- Definitely go metal impeller for the water pump

- synthetic oil - what is the mileage on your engine? I switched when mine was in the 230K KM (just shy of 150K miles). I went with the Castrol Edge 5w50. I've had no problems. Again depending on the condition of your engine, YMMV.

- Fuel Filter - since I don't know what you're driving... I got an Eta with the fuel filter under the master cylinder in the engine bay. When I do mine again, I'm putting a longer line on it and relocating it up next to the intake. That position under the master cylinder is a PITA to get at. Just saying

[Das Delfin]

Thank you both for your help!

Das- Do you have a picture of:

"8 - might want to replace the alt tightener arm bracket and its bolt (the ones with the teeth gears that you turn to tighten the alt pulley) mine had weakened and disintegrated to the point where it wouldn't tighten properly."

A lot of things are coming up when I search for that.

Also, is blue coolant all the same? Are these cars picky on what type is put in the rad?

Also it seems that the PO always used Valvoline for oil, any recommendations on brand? Does it matter and is anything extra required if I wanted to go synthetic?

Synthetic/real doesn't really matter in these cars. I use just normal castrol high mileage.

I studied coolant way too in depth before resolving with normal Peak.. which is fine as long as you flush it every couple years.

The hood comes off easy by yourself, but putting it back on by yourself is tricky

The part I'm talking about is this thing in the center of the picture with the teeth on one side. And the red arrow pointing to the bolt has the gear part that goes along with the hockey-stick looking part. Use realoem to get the part numbers. The gear slips onto the bolt so you only have to replace that, and not the whole bolt.

[sdhakko]

Thank you both very much, great info.

I purchased a 1989 325is with 209k miles. It is currently bone stock, except the PO changed the AC system over to R134a but it isn't currently working. That is my next project and then after that going to start doing some of the standard mods.

Thanks again for the help, I am sure I will be back on here when I run into issues.