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Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

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    Good luck with the A/C. That will probably be my next project as well


    it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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      So working through this today, and the allen head screws on the rotor immediately stripped. And I just made it worse... tried to get them out another way and got one screw out.... because it broke part of the rotor off along with what the rotor attaches too.... SIGH

      How hard it is to replace whatever it is that the rotor mounts on to? Thanks!

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        There should be a torx head bolt that is holding the cam gear in place, you should be able to remove that in order to replace your rotor and other broke part. I just replaced my cam shaft seal yesterday and it does all come out. Also if you don't have the exact socket, I used a 12 point socket, I think it was 7/32 but I may be wrong. Just make sure you don't move the cam unless the timing belt is still attached or if it's already off use a screw drive to work against the bolt.

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          Here you can see the broken piece. So I should wait and take it off until after I get the TB off? Also what will I need to replace exactly, since I would like to see if I can hunt this down locally.
          Last edited by sdhakko; 07-28-2015, 08:52 AM.

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            My rotor bolts stripped too. Just hammer in a torx socket and take it out with that


            it's a Kenny Powers quote on wheels

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              Originally posted by Das Delfin View Post
              My rotor bolts stripped too. Just hammer in a torx socket and take it out with that
              Trying this now, now the torx bolt is stripped also. Used a e12 now trying to hammer/force an e10 on there. Not sure what to do to get the bolt out of this doesn't work.

              Any ideas?
              Last edited by sdhakko; 07-28-2015, 08:39 AM. Reason: spelling

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                Only other option would be getting a bolt removal tool. Make sure you get a nice big fulcrum for leverage to get the bolt out with out too much jarring. If that doesn't work I'm kind of at a loss unless you replace the cam......

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                  Here is a video for those interested.

                  The Official BMW E30 Timing Belt Replacement 325e/s 325i/x/s Early ModelTHANKS FOR WATCHING!

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                    Thanks everyone for the help! Couldn't have completed this job without this walk through and the quick responses from everyone here. On the Cam bolt, I ended up saw-zalling the cam adapter off so that I could get a better grip on the stripped bolt, which I used a pipe wrench to get it out. Fun times!

                    But learned a lot through doing this, I am excited for the next project, which is probably AC and then shocks/springs.

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                      My car wont start after timing belt

                      1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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                        Okaaaaay... need a bit more info. When you turn the key, Is it turning over at all?
                        Estoguy
                        1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

                        Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

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                          To get rotor bolts out use lots of penetrating oil, and get yourself one of these with some allen sockets. Great little tool! Put your socket on it and whack it with a hammer, and it turns to the left with all the force of the hammer. Deadblow preferred
                          http://www.zoro.com/westward-impact-...m_campaign=PLA
                          BMW tech
                          Umass Amherst
                          05 wrx sti

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                            Originally posted by estoguy View Post
                            Okaaaaay... need a bit more info. When you turn the key, Is it turning over at all?
                            Yea it cranks fine not valve knock or anything double checked timing twice and its correct,i have bright blue spark and fuel beacause plugs are getting wet

                            1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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                              Did you put your crank sensor back? Make sure your cap and rotor are correct?

                              Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

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                                Yea i put the crank sensor back and the rotor stays just behing #1 when cyl1 is at tdc

                                1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

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