Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

[///M42 sport]

Anyone do the crankcase seal while their at it?

[jclar]

Hey anyone mind throwing in pics on how to replace the seals while we're in there?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-20-E30-Timing-Belt/101-Projects-20-E30-Timing-Belt.htm

That kind of goes over it.

[///M42 sport]

Hey anyone mind throwing in pics on how to replace the seals while we're in there?

[Alpinweiße30]

Everything worked out. Everything back on and car started on the first try.

[Burnera]

Putting timing belt on:

1. if you are SURE you didn't move anything while unbolting go ahead to:
2. put the bottom bolt/peg in for the tensioner
3. place the spring and top bolt for the tensioner.
4. compress the spring and tensioner as mush as possible
5. tighten the top bolt so the tensioner stays where it is
6. remove the bottom peg/bolt
7. put the timing belt on, tensioner pulley last. It should slip over without much fuss.
8. replace the bottom bolt/peg on the tensioner, tighten
9. loosen top tensioner bolt, should allow spring to do it's job
10. tighten top bolt again.
fin

If you did, or think you did, rotate the crank or cam shaft out of timing, then:
There's a notch/line on the cam sprocket that lines up to a engraved line on the valve head (about 2 o'clock position).
The harmonic balancer (has six bolts) has a notch/line on it for the crank shaft, which lines up with another line on the lower timing belt cover.

Match both sets of lines up, then turn the engine over with the 22mm wrench, exactly four times. If the lines match up, you're good.

Anybody know what the tolerance is on getting them to line up? I.E. +/-1* or something.

[Alpinweiße30]

Been working off this DIY. working out pretty well so far. Now at the point where i need to take the timing belt off and get ready to put a fresh one on.

Thanks for the write up and pics

[KillaCams]

This guide was awesome for doing my first timing belt job ever. One thing i did differently was i cut the windshield washer hose near the grills, i placed a vacuum hose connector between the 2 cut pieces, this way i can remove the hood and quick disconnect the washer lines, also it doesn't leak all the fluid out.

[TrentW]

Correct--the spring is only to provide the correct amount of tension while installing the belt. Once it's it's tightened down it doesn't actually serve a function.

[91greg325i]

I just opened up my timing cover last night to find the exact same thing (no spring, no spring perch/rod) and the belt just flopping around. I had been putting off the TB job for months. I hate it when I open things up to find that I was on the brink of total F'ing disaster. Always make me that much more paranoid when I hear the slightest rattle from up front.

I think my motor threw a belt in the past b/c the head looks really new compared to the rest of the motor. As I was tearing in to the motor I was semi impressed with the care/attention to detail that was taken at first. The end plugs on the head had a little RTV on them, Goetze manifold gasket instead of something random from pep boys, some safety wire holding things together where factory plastic brackets cracked years ago. Basically, it looked like it was done by someone that knew what they were doing and actually cared about what the next guy who opened it up thought of them. So, I was a little surprised when the tensioner spring assembly wasn't there.

This seems like it was left out intentionally. Do some people do that?

In addition to a little evidence that the last guy who was elbow deep in this motor wasn't a total moron, I realized that the spring can't do anything once the adjustment bolts are tightened...so, why is it there anyway? Are you not supposed to tighten one or both of the bolts that hold the tensioner? Why would you spring-load something that can't move?

...confused

To the best of my knowledge, you are correct, the spring doesn't do anything when the bolt for the tensioner is tightened. The spring isn't that high of a spring rate anyways, so if it did come loose, it wouldn't really help all that much. I'm guessing it is just for getting the tension on the belt while tightening it. It can be tough to hold the tensioner taught while simultaneously tightening a bolt that is very close to the tensioner. My , but I think its more of a convenience factor than anything.

Someone chime in here if there's more to it!

[lateracer]

Yea i'm positive it wasnt there to begin with. The last place that did it mustv'e lost it.... Looks like its gunna have to wait until this weekend before I can get back to it.

I just opened up my timing cover last night to find the exact same thing (no spring, no spring perch/rod) and the belt just flopping around. I had been putting off the TB job for months. I hate it when I open things up to find that I was on the brink of total F'ing disaster. Always make me that much more paranoid when I hear the slightest rattle from up front.

I think my motor threw a belt in the past b/c the head looks really new compared to the rest of the motor. As I was tearing in to the motor I was semi impressed with the care/attention to detail that was taken at first. The end plugs on the head had a little RTV on them, Goetze manifold gasket instead of something random from pep boys, some safety wire holding things together where factory plastic brackets cracked years ago. Basically, it looked like it was done by someone that knew what they were doing and actually cared about what the next guy who opened it up thought of them. So, I was a little surprised when the tensioner spring assembly wasn't there.

This seems like it was left out intentionally. Do some people do that?

In addition to a little evidence that the last guy who was elbow deep in this motor wasn't a total moron, I realized that the spring can't do anything once the adjustment bolts are tightened...so, why is it there anyway? Are you not supposed to tighten one or both of the bolts that hold the tensioner? Why would you spring-load something that can't move?

...confused

[Higelac]

The wrench for installing/adjusting Comnav G2B GPS antennas is a skinny 1 1/4 inch tool. This works out to be 31.75mm, but it fits fine on my fan nut. I realize I lucked out here and also that this information has about a 0.002% chance of being useful to anyone else out there, but there it is..

[jdizzleM]

here for future reference

[Cyrix2k]

You'll want to put it around the tensioner last (the smallest diameter is the easiest, also it goes on the back side so there is no trouble lining up teeth). Just make sure that there is no slack from the oil pump to the cam gear and have the tensioner all the way compressed, it should go on fairly easily (maybe at the most 10-15 minutes) If it is really hard to do,you'll want to double check to make sure the belt is lined up correctly.

Also, it helps to put it on the "edge" of the cam gear, etc. half on, half off. That allows you to get it on, then push it back to where it is supposed to be. Sometimes this is what you have to do to get that extra millimeter of clearance.

Yeah, I just followed the instructions that came with my timing belt kit. You need to apply a decent amount of pressure while putting the belt on the cam gear and it should slip right over the tensioner with no trouble at all. I had my belt all the way on, but not centered on the gears. The belt centered up by the time I turned the crank two full rotations (one rotation of the cam). This was my first time doing the job and the actual belt installation took probably 5 minutes. I had the car running in another 15 minutes or so... but that was sans cooling system.

[91greg325i]

okay finally got the fan off. Is there like a trick or something to getting the new belt on cause I feel like it's almost impossible

You'll want to put it around the tensioner last (the smallest diameter is the easiest, also it goes on the back side so there is no trouble lining up teeth). Just make sure that there is no slack from the oil pump to the cam gear and have the tensioner all the way compressed, it should go on fairly easily (maybe at the most 10-15 minutes) If it is really hard to do,you'll want to double check to make sure the belt is lined up correctly.

Also, it helps to put it on the "edge" of the cam gear, etc. half on, half off. That allows you to get it on, then push it back to where it is supposed to be. Sometimes this is what you have to do to get that extra millimeter of clearance.

[spaceshuttle]

okay finally got the fan off. Is there like a trick or something to getting the new belt on cause I feel like it's almost impossible