Timing Belt / Water Pump DIY - Step by Step Pictures

[91greg325i]

where did you get the number 80 ft/lbs for a torque spec on the water pump? my chilton said like 20....

If you look more closely, it says 80 in/lbs... definitely not ft/lbs. Thanks for mentioning, as I'm sure other people may be making the same mistake. The ft/lbs spec is actually much lower than 20, its around 7...

Also, Not sure what is up with one of the steps having a tropical beach picture... Maybe imageshack mixed up or something. I'll look into it and see what I can do. Definitely not any of my pictures.

Hope that helps.

[myfirst325]

Great post. I'm gonna tackle this job in a week or two but before doing so I'll go over the entire thread a couple of times. Everyone had great contributions including whoever or whatever managed to throw the beach pic in.

[91greg325i]

Great post. I'm gonna tackle this job in a week or two but before doing so I'll go over the entire thread a couple of times. Everyone had great contributions including whoever or whatever managed to throw the beach pic in.

Haha, yeah, I think the image host got two pictures mixed up or something... I guess it isn't as bad as the person looking at beach pictures and getting a nasty engine bay...

[imdashiz]

so what if i took off the belt without setting anything at TDC?

[91greg325i]

so what if i took off the belt without setting anything at TDC?

There are timing marks on both the head and the block that you can line up. The head has a nick in it at about the 2 o'clock position that should match up with a notch on the timing belt gear. The same principle applies to the block. Just match everything up, and you'll be good to go.

[imdashiz]

without hitting the valves? so I somehow have to move both the crank and the camshaft at the same time

[91greg325i]

without hitting the valves? so I somehow have to move both the crank and the camshaft at the same time

You may hit the valves, but its not like you are hitting them 3000 times per minute with a ton of force. It's one thing to hit them when the car is running, it is a completely different thing if you just nudge them while rotating the engine by hand. You realistically won't run into any trouble when rotating one, followed by the other.

[imdashiz]

oh ok awesome. thanks.

[Luis325]

Nice writeup!

[myfirst325]

Okay ready to start! Any recommended timing belt kits? After reading all this info I'm definitely replacing the TB WP Thermostat and also the camshaft, crankshaft, and I/M shaft seals.

[TrentW]

The Continental kit is the one you want. You can get it from blunt, Pelican, BMP, etc.

[91greg325i]

The Continental kit is the one you want. You can get it from blunt, Pelican, BMP, etc.

+1 Continental T-belt kit w/ a Graf water pump is what I always use. No issues so far, and I've done quite a few.

[myfirst325]

Thank you both!

[myfirst325]

Well I changed out the waterpump and timing belt with no issues. The car started right up. It overheated however within a couple of minutes so then I troubleshot it down to the aux fan not working. I wired the fan direct to the batt and it spun on both hi and low. I then took apart the rad switch and after playing with that for about an hour it dawned on me to check the fuses. Sure enough both the lo and high speed fuses were blown. I replaced them and the fan then worked but still overheated. I followed the bleeding instructions that someone posted and the temp dropped to the middle. With the accelerator down it actually drops to just above the blue. I left the aux fan wired direct at the rad switch so it runs whenever the ignition switch is on. I also dont have the thermostat in but will throw it back in tomorrow to try and keep the operating temp pegged in the middle.

[91greg325i]

Well I changed out the waterpump and timing belt with no issues. The car started right up. It overheated however within a couple of minutes so then I troubleshot it down to the aux fan not working. I wired the fan direct to the batt and it spun on both hi and low. I then took apart the rad switch and after playing with that for about an hour it dawned on me to check the fuses. Sure enough both the lo and high speed fuses were blown. I replaced them and the fan then worked but still overheated. I followed the bleeding instructions that someone posted and the temp dropped to the middle. With the accelerator down it actually drops to just above the blue. I left the aux fan wired direct at the rad switch so it runs whenever the ignition switch is on. I also dont have the thermostat in but will throw it back in tomorrow to try and keep the operating temp pegged in the middle.

Glad you got it figured out. It isn't uncommon for people to bleed the system improperly, so it may just be air working its way out. Glad you got it done.