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Removing the ignition lock barrel the easy way

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    Removing the ignition lock barrel the easy way

    I'm not taking credit for this amazing write up. I was directed to this web site called evansweb.info by another forum member and found it to be incredibly helpful. I followed the instructions and it worked flawlessly.

    You might need to remove the lock barrel if you have a problem with it or you are changing your locks. If so, this is how you do it. I did this on a lock in a piece of steering column I got from a junkyard. You need to insert the key and turn it approx 55 to 60 degrees, I think this corresponds to position I (accessory). For safety it is probably better to disconnect the battery before you start.



    Get a thin allen key or stiff piece of wire and insert it into the hole - the hole should now be “open” whereas it was closed in key position “0”. The depth of insertion is just about spot on 20mm.



    As you can see from the picture, when the wire is inserted it retracts a small metal catch from the side of the barrel, enabling you to extract it by pulling on the key. You have to push the wire quite hard, and note that it goes in at a slight angle. You will see that I have taken the picture exactly edge-on to the key so you can see the shallow angle required.


    MOD EDIT:
    Originally posted by Panici View Post
    Snapshots from original site:
    My name is Jon Evans, I used to be quite active in the BMW 7 Series (E32) community, as I owned a 735iL, and I have a lot of information available in the BMW Repairs section of the site. From August 2004 to April 2011 I owned a 1998 Lexus LS400. I have a Lexus Repairs section, but it is fairly empty because nothing much seemed to go wrong with it. In April 2011 I replaced the Lexus with a nearly-new Toyota Prius, the main aim being to reduce my expenditure on petrol. With rising petrol prices the Lexus was hovering at just under £100 per tank, which would last about 350 miles. The Prius got traded in for a MINI Clubman Cooper S back in 2016, but in 2023 the allure of a relatively cheap 2008 LS600hL lured me back to Lexus. I live in Banbury, UK. You can email me at jon.evans@pobox.com


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    Last edited by Panici; 10-13-2023, 07:21 AM.

    #2
    Thank you!!!!!!!
    Originally posted by E30_(1st Musk)_
    HONDA IS WHERE EVERY TREND DIES! .

    24v swap Oil Pan..F/S

    Comment


      #3
      nice.. nice
      sigpic
      HyperWerkz

      89 mtech2, s50, AR Kit, borgwarner s362, e-85, 15psi... 592whp
      " enjoy the show "

      Comment


        #4
        Nice, Thanks for posting.

        Erik

        Comment


          #5
          no problem guys, this helped me immensely when I needed it.

          Comment


            #6
            this is rad! i need to do this soon.
            Originally posted by Lof8
            4 doors allow you to transport more whores.
            therefore, their value is much greater.
            Down to: 89 aw2 332i/4/5 , 70 Sahara 2002

            Comment


              #7
              none of the ignition barrels that I have have the little hole in them, geuss I have to do it the old fashioned (hard, annoying, time consuming) way?

              Comment


                #8
                ;)nice info.... thanx.
                91 318is...DD:finger:/85 325es SOLD/91 318is RIP


                Originally posted by naplesE30
                Must stop clicking on Norwegian threads. Makes me wanna punch my car in da mouf.
                Originally posted by einstein57
                My tranny sounds like a blender full of walnuts. So I added sound deadner to the tunnel and put in a louder stereo. Am I doing it right?
                Castro Motorsport/E30 specialist
                North Hollywood, Ca. 818 310-2497

                Comment


                  #9
                  No disrespect to the OP, but you're doing it wrong. I tried your method and the main problem with it is the "tool" that you're using to release the tab on the cylinder body. It must have a pointed end. The nail that the E30zone.net suggests is exactly what was needed.
                  If you are struggling with extracting your old ignition tumbler, do this:
                  1. Insert key into ignition
                  2. Turn the key until it clicks at ‘position 1’ this is the point at which the steering lock is released
                  3. Insert a small brad/nail into the hole and carefully push it in as far as it will go, you will feel the lock pop out of its socket. The "tool" that you push into the hole must have a tapered end, a flat ended wire or pin will not work.
                  4. Remove the lock from the casting
                  5. To fit the lock insert the key into the lock and turn to ‘position 1’ and push it into the casting. There is no need to use the nail for this, the inside of the casting is tapered and will push the pin in for you as you push the lock in.

                  I wrestled with my very old tumbler for almost an hour and then tried the nail. It popped right out. The angle didnt matter only the position of the key and the point on the nail.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by sfinsf View Post
                    No disrespect to the OP, but you're doing it wrong. I tried your method and the main problem with it is the "tool" that you're using to release the tab on the cylinder body. It must have a pointed end. The nail that the E30zone.net suggests is exactly what was needed.
                    If you are struggling with extracting your old ignition tumbler, do this:
                    1. Insert key into ignition
                    2. Turn the key until it clicks at ‘position 1’ this is the point at which the steering lock is released
                    3. Insert a small brad/nail into the hole and carefully push it in as far as it will go, you will feel the lock pop out of its socket. The "tool" that you push into the hole must have a tapered end, a flat ended wire or pin will not work.
                    4. Remove the lock from the casting
                    5. To fit the lock insert the key into the lock and turn to ‘position 1’ and push it into the casting. There is no need to use the nail for this, the inside of the casting is tapered and will push the pin in for you as you push the lock in.

                    I wrestled with my very old tumbler for almost an hour and then tried the nail. It popped right out. The angle didnt matter only the position of the key and the point on the nail.
                    +1, I used my 1.2 mm precision (watchmaker's) screwdriver and when I twisted it it pulled the locking pin in and the lock barrel popped right out.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I used a thicker paperclip. Couldn't get it to work, until I doubled it up on itself, and then it came right out!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Snapshots from original site:
                        My name is Jon Evans, I used to be quite active in the BMW 7 Series (E32) community, as I owned a 735iL, and I have a lot of information available in the BMW Repairs section of the site. From August 2004 to April 2011 I owned a 1998 Lexus LS400. I have a Lexus Repairs section, but it is fairly empty because nothing much seemed to go wrong with it. In April 2011 I replaced the Lexus with a nearly-new Toyota Prius, the main aim being to reduce my expenditure on petrol. With rising petrol prices the Lexus was hovering at just under £100 per tank, which would last about 350 miles. The Prius got traded in for a MINI Clubman Cooper S back in 2016, but in 2023 the allure of a relatively cheap 2008 LS600hL lured me back to Lexus. I live in Banbury, UK. You can email me at jon.evans@pobox.com


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