Hi guys, great write up, thanks. My locks work great except for when I lock the driver's side, it prevents me from being able to unlock the passenger side. Can you specify for me exactly what causes that? I other words what mechanical function of the lock differentiates the partial turn from full 90 degree turn of the key? Thanks!
How to retrofit ‘double lock’ driver door lock and keep central locking
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this was bumped by a spammer, but while we are here...
anyone able to remove a lock cylinder from a late model 4 door? how the hell are you supposed to fit your hands in there? I have gigantic ape hands, I pulled the door panel and screwed around for an hour before I gave up. I can't even get close to the clip that holds the lock to the door, much less get any of it apart - the window & regulator is just in the way.Comment
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My understanding is that there are two actions:
1. turning the key 45 deg locks
2. turning the key 90 deg double locks
Are both of these actions electronically triggered by the single micro switch in the drivers door? And if so, does the 45 deg turn click the switch, and the 90 turn hold the switch down?
I have my door in pieces and I've tried a new Central Locking Unit, no joy, yet, running out of ideas other than eliminating the drivers door loop.Comment
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this was bumped by a spammer, but while we are here...
anyone able to remove a lock cylinder from a late model 4 door? how the hell are you supposed to fit your hands in there? I have gigantic ape hands, I pulled the door panel and screwed around for an hour before I gave up. I can't even get close to the clip that holds the lock to the door, much less get any of it apart - the window & regulator is just in the way.sigpic
Gigitty Gigitty!!!!
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it would have to be like a foot long. I can't even get close to it. And then how do I get it back on?
I've done it on a 2 door and it was really easy.Comment
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