DIY - Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

[eight~deuce]

excellent write up. +1 for torque specs

[TrentW]

Why is this? I don't wanna do this twice lol (and I've already done it all once).

Because otherwise once you lower the car the bushings will bind and eventually fail. I used ramps under the rear wheels to pre-load the bushings.

Again, I used OE rubber bushings, but the same rule applies.

[Vivek]

And remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.

Why is this? I don't wanna do this twice lol (and I've already done it all once).

Also, how do you guys lube urethane? On the outside of the bushing where it fits on the trailing arm, on the inside between the urethane and the metal sleeve, between the metal sleeve and the bolt, or just everywhere/a combination?

[TrentW]

I think it would be easier to just drop the whole subframe, no messing with half shafts just undo the trailing arm bolts once droped and pop them out of the diff.

just drop the whole subframe. it is vastly easier and requires much less painstaking disassembly. plus, you can address lots of other issues while you are in there.

I dropped the whole rear assembly out, separated the trailing arms from the sub-frame and pressed out the bushings just hanging there. I didn't have to mess with the e-brake assembly or anything else of that sort.

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

Couldn't agree more. More often than not, if the TAB's are bad, the subframe bushings are bad also.

Really consider going with the OE rubber bushings. Everyone thinks the urethane is so much better cause their bushings were so worn out in the first place, but if they'd just gone with the OE they would realize how great it is and they wouldn't be complaining about all the noise and creaking the urethane makes. And remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.

[mr.vang]

No complaints thus far. My biggest concern was them squeaking but they have been nice and quiet.

those powerflex look dark blue. i thought they were suppose to be purple? its the street kit right?

[Cletonius]

Great writeup, good to know!

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

I'm getting that same rear end clunk myself.

I'm going to do all the bushings front/rear, shocks, springs, fuel tank.... basically everything under the car all at once. Any tips? What has to come off and what can stay on the subframe if I remove the whole thing as a unit?

[canakami]

Looks so easy!

[TimKninja]

Great writeup, good to know!

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

[S62]

great writeup

[brianpgriset]

how do u like the powerflex bushings?

No complaints thus far. My biggest concern was them squeaking but they have been nice and quiet.

[glucklich21]

I get to do this in a few weeks. :/

[julianaM42]

how do u like the powerflex bushings?

[2mAn]

Thanks! I probably will want to borrow it. After looking through this DIY, im also thinking about doing the e-brake cables and the brake lines. Also planning on changing the diff oil too

[Gerta]

thats a good plan 2Man ... I wish I had done my upper SS lines at that time when I had everything out. You're in the Lynnwood area right? I have the AKG tool to remove the stock rubber TA bushings if you need to borrow it.

[2mAn]

getting ready to do this, along with the rear diff bushing and subframe bushings. plan is to drop the subframe and swap everything.