How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[JGood]

I have looked through this thread and I dont see a definitive answer on whether or not new low pressure lines are needed. I have a rack from a 92 325 and the high press line too.. i can get the spacers and hardware, but do i REALLY need to change out the hoses?

I used stock e30 hoses, just had to bend one ever so slightly. Then again, that was for an m50 install, which also requires bending lines. Seems stock e30 lines work great with e36 engine and e36 steering rack :)

[Wh33lhop]

Page 1, step 24.

Seems like you could just get a 1/2" bicycle headset spacer and use that instead. The damn dealer doesn't stock 72111847480.

I used stock e30 hoses, just had to bend one ever so slightly. Then again, that was for an m50 install, which also requires bending lines. Seems stock e30 lines work great with e36 engine and e36 steering rack :)

Bent or unbent? ;)

[JGood]

Seems like you could just get a 1/2" bicycle headset spacer and use that instead. The damn dealer doesn't stock 72111847480.



Bent or unbent? ;)

Or a stack of washers for free, then you don't have to measure anything or cut anything.

Not following you on the bent or unbent thing. I meant a stock e30 line fits a e36 rack/m50 engine in an e30 very well, you only have to bend it a few mm, and could probably get away without bending it. That was my experience anyway.

[Wh33lhop]

Or a stack of washers for free, then you don't have to measure anything or cut anything.

Yeah I was thinking of that, some big-ass washers oughta do the trick too.

Not following you on the bent or unbent thing. I meant a stock e30 line fits a e36 rack/m50 engine in an e30 very well, you only have to bend it a few mm, and could probably get away without bending it. That was my experience anyway.

Just asking if you had to modify the lines at all going with E36 motor/rack. Wonder if the E34 PS pump is any different.

If I ever get around to M50 swapping, I'll be putting in an E36 rack while the car's in between motors.

[Nic01101011]

Seems like you could just get a 1/2" bicycle headset spacer and use that instead. The damn dealer doesn't stock 72111847480.

3/8 bolt spacers work perfectly

[JGood]

^^^^ haha, our sigs kind of look alike at first glance...

Just asking if you had to modify the lines at all going with E36 motor/rack. Wonder if the E34 PS pump is any different.

If I ever get around to M50 swapping, I'll be putting in an E36 rack while the car's in between motors.

Yeah the e34 pump outlet locations are slightly different. It's been over a year since i messed with mine, so I really don't remember anything besides the hoses fitting better with the new engine then they did with the old one. Depending on if you have to shim your engine mounts, or if you don't at all, the stock hoses may work out good for you.

[Wh33lhop]

Yeah the e34 pump outlet locations are slightly different. It's been over a year since i messed with mine, so I really don't remember anything besides the hoses fitting better with the new engine then they did with the old one. Depending on if you have to shim your engine mounts, or if you don't at all, the stock hoses may work out good for you.

Eh, fuck it, I kind of want to try manual steering anyway. Now to figure out how to block off what needs to be blocked off.

[bmws50b30]

Has anyone purchased the AKG kit for $34? That price sounds damn good for hardware designed for this, from a reputable company.

I made my own 2 years ago when I installed my M3 rack, but I think when I do the swap in my other e30 I'll buy the kit from AKG.

it seems you only get the spacer and bolts for $34 and not the complete knuckle/u-joint. i think it's too much.

[tjts1]

Whats wrong with washers?

[M3 Ryan]

Eh, fuck it, I kind of want to try manual steering anyway. Now to figure out how to block off what needs to be blocked off.

I use the existing hoses and cut off the banjo fittings, grind them and weld them together. End result is a spacer with flow-through passage for fluid in the rack and it is slick. Uses stock banjo bolts for a factory look.
PIC:

[Jean]

Ryan, how is the steering feel with that? Wish you were closer so that I could check that out before doing it on my car (e36 rack is going next).

[bimmer630]

Got my E36 rack in last night.. its awesome! I used a regular 325 rack.. it was free and didnt leak like my e30 rack does.. so i figured what the hell. the only thing i needed was the spacer that you cut in half and use on the knuckle.. dont remember the p/n. for everything else i just used what was around. the lines dont need to be changed. i used the e30 lines and just tweeked them a bit to make it work.
the feel of the steering is like night and day.. much crisper and responsive.. good mod and good writeup

[Nic01101011]

after finally getting a chance to take the car on a proper drive, I must say I have no idea how I lived without the quicker rack before. it completely transforms the car

[JGood]

Just did my second rack swap today. This one was a bitch. Took 4 hours to get the old rack out. My body is KILLING me. I've done a 5 speed swap, m50 swap, an e36 rack, diff swaps, body work, all kinds of work - I think this rack removal was the biggest PITA so far.

Anyway, I used a stack of seven 7/16" Grade 8 washers as spacers on each one of the subframe tabs. I then used a stack of six 3/8" Grade 8 washers on each knuckle bolt (as spacers), along with 3/8" Grade 8 bolts and locknuts. It is very solid, and the diameter of the metal is thicker then the spacers would be. I feel very comfortable with this setup for track use. I've put probably 75k miles on my other rack swap which used random washers and bolts, and that has held up fine so far.




I installed the 97 M3 rack with the tie-rods that were on it. My buddy had it on his street/track M3 before being rear-ended, I believe his toe was set to zero. Measured toe with this setup on the e30, it has 3.5" of toe in!!! Went to adjust them (they sure do have a weird clamp design) and they were seized. Hit them with a PB blaster a few times, no luck. I'm just going to swap on the 87 tie rods, as they are almost new, and hopefully won't need adjusted.

I also need to grind out more of the knuckle. I completely forgot to do it out of the car, so now it's an incredibly slow, tiring, tedious process with a dremel and hand file. It will definitely take another hour or so under the car.

[FredK]

Went to adjust them (they sure do have a weird clamp design) and they were seized. Hit them with a PB blaster a few times, no luck.

Use heat. Tie rods always get MEGA rusted, but they look like they might yield to MAPP gas and a pipe wrench.