Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

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  • Junker02
    replied
    I've done the heater core a thought it was not too bad. Have to do the evaporator so wanted to see what I was getting into. Thanks!

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  • Ceeker
    replied
    both about the same...one requires removal of the leg panel and one requires dropping the glove box. it's tight being under the dash to remove the heater tap pipes. but it is doable.

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  • Junker02
    replied
    Which is a more difficult job? Heater core replacement or evaporator? Has anyone done both?

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  • DatUtahGuy
    replied
    I used some silicone lubricant on them

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  • cholyoke
    replied
    Thank you. I don't want to have to do this twice. Did you just use motor oil to wet the o-rings?

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  • DatUtahGuy
    replied
    My o-rings were "squared" or pancaked because they were so old, the new circular ones worked just fine

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  • cholyoke
    replied
    I got everything out and the original o-rings have a square cross section and the new ones that I got have a circular cross section. They have the same ID/OD. Are the new ones the wrong o-rings?

    Edit-got them from Pelican (here). Part number is different than what Real OEM says to use (12 on diagram here).
    Last edited by cholyoke; 03-25-2013, 05:37 PM. Reason: added part number info

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  • steve68
    replied
    thats it but man there expensive,

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  • dogsbark26
    replied
    Try here.

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  • steve68
    replied
    or hard to find, along with the heater core,

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  • blazinxpk
    replied
    Originally posted by sandlock
    Any leads on places to purchase new valves? they seem to be unobtanium these days. Behr supposedly won't make more for a while; there has to be some place that stocks them.
    i went to pick n pull (junkyard) bought two of them incase one didnt work. $15 each. purchasing them new might be pricey.

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  • sandlock
    replied
    Any leads on places to purchase new valves? they seem to be unobtanium these days. Behr supposedly won't make more for a while; there has to be some place that stocks them.

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  • sweet6e30
    replied
    i did this and ripped out the pooched valve, i plumbed direct new rubber coolant lines as a coupler between a pair of aluminum pipes and the heater core outlets ..that passes through the firewall, clamps and rightstuff sealant..... 3 years later, no problems at all.

    Only thing with the way i did this is that it blows hot air when fan is on in summer too, but hey my AC was removed anyways, its a 4 door with a sun roof,....everything goes down and open to enjoy the road on a drive anyways.

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  • steve68
    replied
    Getting ready to perform this myself,

    I have the interior stripped, fixing some rust and small holes in the drivers side floor board, today I broke out the welder and when I opened the door the was the funny green fluid on the nice white floor,

    where the best place to get a heater core??

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  • bastianshaw
    replied
    i was under the impression that the coolant that goes to the heatercore bypasses the thermo

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