Wideband choices for megasquirt...

[browntown]

So the instinctual e30 response is get an innovate lc-1. The innovate is probably the most widely used wide-band out there and has some claims of digital accuracy that no-one can beat. As a salesman myself, I'm instantly skeptical of claims like this. Plus I try to steer away from doing what everyone else does (except the ie stg III's and koni SA's. I'll admit I'm on that bandwagon). Mainly though Innovate has developed an *internet* reputation of poor customer service, difficult to setup product, and their own forums ignore any criticism.

Sooo, there are lots of choices. Perusing other forums like NASOIC and the honda-tech boards yield lots of talk, here is a brief summary of my web-browsing. Let me know if you have any real world experience to share.

NGK Powerdex: the controller is in the digital box gauge. I prefer mounting in a standard gauge pod, so not my favorite. Supposedly one of the most accurate, but lots of claims about it shipping with a bosch sensor (odd, since ngk or NTk makes sensors), and the need for frequent calibration.

AEM UEGO: Cheap, some fans, but generally considered an inferior product.

Autometer makes a kit, but I can't find much detail about it or the suitability as a MS data source.

Zeitronix: I think this is my current candidate for purchase. People loved their zt-2 which enables all sorts of logging and data acquisition. For my purposes, I'll probably just order the zt-3 since it is simpler and MS will monitor most of the other stuff. There's an e30 on their page by Juan in Argentina

Here's his monster. Is he a r3v member?


Any other brands worth looking at?

[iansane]

I ran an innovate on my trans am and got ultra tired of the almost daily free air calibrations required. I don't have hard proof but I don't think it was as accurate as others. (never did a back-to-back comparo.

I have quite a few friends that now run the AEM unit and that was going to be one I try for the next turbo build.

[nando]

I don't get how people have problems with LC1s. I think most of them must be wired wrong. I've had 3 for long periods of time and have never had to do anything with them aside from the intial calibration.

what version of MS?

My preference is definitely the LC1. Eventually, I want to get an I/O extender. That allows you run the digital signal straight into MS (through the CAN bus). No additional analog to digital conversions. Another bonus to the LC1 are the programmable error and warmup states, dual outputs, and programmable output curves.

[einstein57]

I have an LC-1 as well. I've had to calibrate it maybe 2-3 in over a year and usually its because i disconnected the sensor and forgot to plug it back in before turning the car back on. The only problem that i had which would probably effect all units is overheating the element under heavy loads in 105 plus weather. I'll end up either relocating the bung or getting the copper heat sink.

[browntown]

Just found the PLX combo too. It's cheap and laid out very much like the zeitronix unit.

[murky024]

Just found the PLX combo too. It's cheap and laid out very much like the zeitronix unit.

I got the PLX kit on pre-order a few months ago... I have yet to plug it in as it is for a future build...

That being said, I think with MS you don't need to buy the hardware for WB, you can just buy the standard wideband Bosch that everyone uses (LM-1, LC-1, and PLX all use the same sensor IIRC) Since the MS can read the WB signal you don't need a converter box like the PLX. (if I understand correctly)

[nando]

no, MS can't read a wideband signal without a controller.

[hoveringuy]

I use an LC-1 on my Megasquirt and it's fine. Also used an LM-2 and it was good, too.

I haven't had issues with accuracy, ever.

That said, I don't think absolute accuracy is that important. I don't care about knowing whether I'm at 13.4 or 13.5 and which one is correct, but I want to know how the A/F is changing at different RPM-loadpoints and the LC-1 is good and consistent for that, plus I like how small the packaging is and it has pre-installed maps on the megasquirt calibration page.

[jaywood]

Is anyone using the AEM uego? Or is the lc-1 the best?

[FLG]

Jay lc1 is old tech...running there MTX-L no complicated wiring, no separate box. Power, ground, lights, output to ms plug in sensor, calibrate, install sensor... done.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[ak-]

I'm running the LC1 into a separate bung on it's own. Regular, though re-flashed, ECU.
Haven't calibrated it for 10 months or so with no errors and I'm happy with it.

When I turn the car on, it takes about 10 seconds or so to give a reading.
Flashes at 7.4 for a bit, then gives me a proper reading of 14.7+/- idle. Wonder if the pause is normal..

My friend has an AEM eugo.
I don't like it really. The face, lights, readings, but the fancy thing is you can calibrate it without having to remove the plug from it's bung.

[kamotors]

I'm running the Mtx-l, its easy to setup and works great

[Jaxx_]

14point7.com's DIY SLC is what I use.

[jaywood]

Ak, my old LC-1 did the same thing. It would flash on start up (7.4) and peg 22.4 when I let off the throttle.



Thinking of getting either the MTX or the AEM Uego for my new setup... opinions?

[nando]

I'm running the LC1 into a separate bung on it's own. Regular, though re-flashed, ECU.
Haven't calibrated it for 10 months or so with no errors and I'm happy with it.

When I turn the car on, it takes about 10 seconds or so to give a reading.
Flashes at 7.4 for a bit, then gives me a proper reading of 14.7+/- idle. Wonder if the pause is normal..

My friend has an AEM eugo.
I don't like it really. The face, lights, readings, but the fancy thing is you can calibrate it without having to remove the plug from it's bung.

It's in warmup moe. You can (and should) reprogram it to output 14.7:1 during warmup and error states.