LC-1 AFR reading problems.

[whodwho]

Can you explain what do you mean by including the switch vs. straight ground? I have the LED and calibration setup correctly where it flashes warm-up mode and allows me to calibrate.

Sounds like you have it hooked up correctly then

"4. BLACK - - - - - - - Calibration wire - - - - - - - - -ECU shock tower ground"

Made it sound like you had the black wire connected to ground without the switch

carry on... 8^)

[ak-]

Good luck :p keep us updated if you figure it out.

:puppy:



So I made both outputs for wideband.
Brown went to the gauge, and Yellow to signal o2/MS (not that the wire to MS matters because I should still get an AFR reading on my gauge regardless, right?)


And...... nothing. Same thing. Pegged to 22.2 AFR on idle.
If I blip throttle it hits 7.4, then back to 22.2 AFR.

[whodwho]

I would have to go back and look but I thought I remembered that it would read good on the gauge and not in TS?

And does TS show the same now?

I would get it working right with MS disconnected, it sounds like it is behaving like you have it set for NB when it goes from one extreme to the other

[ak-]

I would have to go back and look but I thought I remembered that it would read good on the gauge and not in TS?

And does TS show the same now?

I would get it working right with MS disconnected, it sounds like it is behaving like you have it set for NB when it goes from one extreme to the other

It would read good on TS, but not the gauge back when I introduced the problem to you.
It used to read wonky on TS, but that went away after I grounded everything to the same ground (ECU shock tower).

On the LC1 programmer, I set the Analog 1 tab to:
0v = 7.35 AFR
5v = 22.39 AFR

Analog 2:
0v = 7.35 AFR
5v = 22.39 AFR

Then hit [Program].

I exited the programmer and reopened it to make sure it was saved and such.

I've connected my Narrowband to the gauge before and it pegs at 7.4 rather than 22.2 AFR.

[jntar]

I guess at this point give innovate a call. They helped me diagnose my lc-1 issue.

[liquidgroove]

The wideband controller itself is in my glovebox and my coil is mounted right behind my passenger headlight!

[LC-1 wire]

1. RED - - - - - - - - -12v switched - - - - - - - - - - Defroster switch
2. BLUE - - - - - - - - Heater ground - - - - - - - - - ECU shock tower ground
3. WHITE - - - - - - - System ground - - - - - - - - -ECU shock tower ground
4. BLACK - - - - - - - Calibration wire - - - - - - - - -ECU shock tower ground
5. YELLOW - - - - - - Analog 1 (narrowband) - - - - Capped off
6. BROWN - - - - - - -Anolog 2 (wideband) - - - - - Signal wire on o2 (black wire of the 4) AND AFR gauge signal wire (white)

According to BMWman91's diagram

Looks like the white wire is analog ground. He had it connected to stock O2 ground on O2 sensor connector.

Not sure if it will fix your problem, but worth a try.

[george graves]

It would read good on TS, but not the gauge back when I introduced the problem to you.
It used to read wonky on TS, but that went away after I grounded everything to the same ground (ECU shock tower).

On the LC1 programmer, I set the Analog 1 tab to:
0v = 7.35 AFR
5v = 22.39 AFR

Analog 2:
0v = 7.35 AFR
5v = 22.39 AFR

Then hit [Program].

Good post ak. Just to add, you might have to hit "program" on each screen before moving to the next. If you want to double check it...disconnect, relaunch it, re-connect, and then see if the changes stuck.

[ak-]

Sorry for my late reply. I'm pretty urged to get this fixed.

According to BMWman91's diagram

Looks like the white wire is analog ground. He had it connected to stock O2 ground on O2 sensor connector.

Not sure if it will fix your problem, but worth a try.

[IMGhttp://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/articles/lc1install/bmw002.png[/IMG]

I have read and re-read this along with many other write-ups!
I have the white analog ground grounded at the ECU ground/shock tower. I hope you weren't mistaking the white wire that comes out of the AFR gauge as an analog ground? The factory grounds in my o2 harness didn't work well for me (and many other people), hence why I grounded everything at the shock tower/ECU ground.

Good post ak. Just to add, you might have to hit "program" on each screen before moving to the next. If you want to double check it...disconnect, relaunch it, re-connect, and then see if the changes stuck.

I did just that and nothing. ):

I need to make the time to phone-in Innovative. I might buy another o2 wideband replacement sensor from Autozone to test if they have a returnable return policy.
I'll update as I go.

[ak-]

UPDATE: Fixed.

Embarrassed to say that all I needed was a new sensor and my old new one (yes, brand new) was just fouled some how.


So for anyone who is wondering how to connect these to use with megasquirt to only have 1 o2, my wiring was correct from the get-go.

[LC-1 wire]

1. RED - - - - - - - - -12v switched - - - - - - - - - - Defroster switch (or any other convenient 12v switched)
2. BLUE - - - - - - - - Heater ground - - - - - - - - - ECU shock tower ground
3. WHITE - - - - - - - System ground - - - - - - - - -ECU shock tower ground
4. BLACK - - - - - - - Calibration wire - - - - - - - - -ECU shock tower ground
5. YELLOW - - - - - - Analog 1 (narrowband) - - - - Capped off
6. BROWN - - - - - - -Anolog 2 (wideband) - - - - - Signal wire on the stock o2 wiring (black wire of the 4) AND AFR gauge signal wire (white)