LC-1 AFR reading problems.
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If you lived nearby you could borrow one of mine to test, but that's a bit of a trip. -
Halp. I kind of just want to be told it's broken so I don't have to worry about it anymore.Leave a comment:
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Yes the WB o2 plugs directly into the LC-1 controller, but there are wires that come out of that need an analog output, +12v, and ground. People usually wire that into the stock e30 o2 connector.
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I'll let someone else chime in. But Doesn't your WB o2 sensor plug right into your LC1? Why the splicing?I'm just using the old o2 sensor's wiring harness/o2 connector (is this the proper term?) for the LC-1 to splice into. The LC-1 already has it's own wideband o2 sensor bunged into my downpipe.
http://www.megasquirt.325ix.com/MS_t...to_E30_O2.html
Down pipe---bung---sensor---sensor harness====(plugs into)====LC-1 connector----lc-1----(Then off to a gauge/megasquirt/etc)Leave a comment:
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I'm just using the old o2 sensor's wiring harness/o2 connector (is this the proper term?) for the LC-1 to splice into. The LC-1 already has it's own wideband o2 sensor bunged into my downpipe.
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I must really be missing something....ak - I know you know your stuff....
Why are you hooking up a stock (narrowband o2 *sensor*) to a LC-1's input? I must be mis-reading something. Or the 5 hours of sleep I've had.
Wideband controllers have have only one input (usually - unless you buy the super special model and then you know what you are doing - so assume one input) . And one or more outputs(almost always 2). The input is the sensor you install in your down (exhaust)pipe. The outputs (usually two) will come pre-programmed with one channel being a 0-5 output for a wideband signal. And the other is usually programmed to do a "fake" (and usually half ass'ed) narrow band 0-1v output.
ILast edited by george graves; 08-11-2014, 12:10 AM.Leave a comment:
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LC-1 AFR reading problems.
Problem fixed, pg. 3.
Okay, I'm giving up and finally asking for help.
Stuff:
M20
LC-1 6 wire, spliced into stock o2
Megasquirt MS2
Problem:
AFR gauge will always peg at 22.2 AFR or 7.4 AFR depending how I switch the analog 1 or 2 wire/programming around with the engine running.
Setup:
I spliced in my LC-1 into the stock o2 sensor with the use of every diagram you could find on the net and still cannot get proper AFR readings.
I have my LC-1 grounds (blue and white) and gauge grounded at the ECU ground (passenger shock tower).
Analog 1 (brown wire / wideband) is spliced into the stock o2's signal wire (black)
Analog 2 (yellow wire / narrow band) is spliced into the gauge's signal wire (white).
Red wire is connected to my hazards light button, 12v switched with a fuse in between.
Whether I use factory defaults on the controller, switch the analog outputs around so that analog 1 becomes 2 and analog 2 becomes 1, I still cannot get proper AFR readings. It will just stay pegged at 22.2AFR or 7.4AFR (Depends how I have the analog outputs switched) with the engine on and cruising.
Notes:
-Before megasquirt, I was using a separate bung for the LC-1 and it worked/read perfectly fine. If I remember correctly, both analog outputs were connected to the gauge's signal.
-Tuner studio's AFR reading is in synchronization with my gauge, so I can assume my groundings are fine.
Where did I go wrong?Last edited by ak-; 10-23-2014, 02:53 PM.Tags: None

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