glowing red manifold

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • shiboujin
    R3VLimited
    • Feb 2006
    • 2791

    #16
    Lots or problems guys lol the car stopped starting. I think I fouled my plugs really well. I'm going to take tuning from step 1 and see where I can go.

    I have no ICV and I'm fairly sure I have no vacuum leaks. Megasquirt tuning is fun!

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

    Comment

    • nando
      Moderator
      • Nov 2003
      • 34827

      #17
      where is your O2 sensor grounded?

      it's fine if you do enough research before diving in. Of course you can really never do enough.. still learning lots myself.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

      Comment

      • shiboujin
        R3VLimited
        • Feb 2006
        • 2791

        #18
        I've wired 4 MS cars and tuned about 3 but my own builds are always a tad beyond my ability.

        The O2 is grounded to a terminal with all my other major grounds using a 0 gauge audio quality cable to the block. Except the O2 reads full lean now but I can't even get the car started to see anymore.

        Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

        Comment

        • nando
          Moderator
          • Nov 2003
          • 34827

          #19
          Originally posted by shiboujin
          I've wired 4 MS cars and tuned about 3 but my own builds are always a tad beyond my ability.

          The O2 is grounded to a terminal with all my other major grounds using a 0 gauge audio quality cable to the block. Except the O2 reads full lean now but I can't even get the car started to see anymore.
          Okay, there's your first mistake.

          O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

          Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)

          also, if you were reading dead lean and now the car won't start, you were probably flooding the engine with way too much fuel. that also fits with super high EGTs under no loads..
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment

          • shiboujin
            R3VLimited
            • Feb 2006
            • 2791

            #20
            Originally posted by nando
            Okay, there's your first mistake.

            O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

            Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)

            also, if you were reading dead lean and now the car won't start, you were probably flooding the engine with way too much fuel. that also fits with super high EGTs under no loads..
            I ground both the ECU, all sensors, and the O2 sensor all to the same block. It's worked for me in the past. The LC1 manual says you should actually ground the O2 sensor about an inch closer to the grounding point than your ECU but this has worked fine for me.

            I actually fixed the O2 noise after rewiring the coils since the coils and the O2 were getting power from the same signal. The O2 sensor basically wasn't always getting the same voltage since the coil packs ground and suck power at irregular intervals.

            I probably was flooding the engine. I should back off on it. I need to clean them spark plugs. Thanks nando. Makes sense I should have clarified a few things too. My bad.

            Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

            Comment

            • nando
              Moderator
              • Nov 2003
              • 34827

              #21
              the reason you ground at the ECU is due to ground offsets.. the further away the grounds are, the higher the offset and the less accurate your sensor is. An inaccurate sensor is pretty well useless (as you know from your power issue).

              I also like to think of it like this - if BMW (and basically every other OEM) did it that way and it worked for 20 years, why change it. :)
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

              Comment

              • Tchao
                Wrencher
                • Apr 2007
                • 223

                #22
                Take it to a shop that actually knows what they are doing. Then you can look at your maps and see why you suck at tuning ;)

                Seriously though, I think you are messing with too many stuff to ever get that thing right. Baby steps my friend....

                Comment

                • shiboujin
                  R3VLimited
                  • Feb 2006
                  • 2791

                  #23
                  Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!

                  Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                  Comment

                  • SickE30
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 769

                    #24
                    If you were willing to pay a shop to finish it, I would think you'd be willing to pay $600 for the 95% plug and play MS the guy on here is selling. That would be my "Step 1". I mean think about it, you can re-coupe some of those funds by selling your original MS as well, won't be a bad hit on the wallet.

                    Comment

                    • shiboujin
                      R3VLimited
                      • Feb 2006
                      • 2791

                      #25
                      I regret even starting this thread.

                      Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

                      Comment

                      • SickE30
                        Mod Crazy
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 769

                        #26
                        Originally posted by shiboujin
                        Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!
                        Good stuff man.

                        Comment

                        • evil_twin
                          R3VLimited
                          • Nov 2007
                          • 2965

                          #27
                          Originally posted by evil_twin
                          You might be running a bit rich with a misfire. My maxima did that when it was missing bad. I think you're dumping too much fuel.
                          Originally posted by shiboujin
                          Turns out a plug I had in the intake came out. caused all my problems. Drove it around the block today. Didn't run well but I can fix that. At least the car starts on a dime and idles smoothly now. W00t!
                          Hey, maybe you should listen to me :)
                          I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

                          Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

                          Delta Auto Care
                          2875-C Towerview Road
                          Herndon, VA
                          703.435.1375

                          My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

                          Comment

                          • SamE30e
                            R3V Elite
                            • Sep 2007
                            • 4319

                            #28
                            Originally posted by nando
                            Okay, there's your first mistake.

                            O2 sensors should ALWAYS be grounded at the ECU - including the heater circuit.

                            Try that and see if your signal noise clears up any. :)
                            QFT. People always make this mistake and think that they are right, and that it doesn't make that much of a difference.
                            1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

                            Comment

                            • maximumangle
                              E30 Addict
                              • Jun 2009
                              • 497

                              #29
                              Originally posted by dashboardmonkey

                              That's hot.

                              lmfao. when i was in school we had an eclipse gs-t that got the turbo so hot on the dyno that it melted the turbo flange studs! i believe the culprit was that somebody swapped out a larger n2o jet without switching to the proper fuel jet. dude did it again later and grenaded his engine. lol

                              98 540 MSport
                              89 325 ix

                              Comment

                              • LowR3V'in
                                R3V Elite
                                • Feb 2004
                                • 4209

                                #30
                                O.P: Where you running it at 13.5afr?
                                You should of been running it at 13.5afr.

                                Comment

                                Working...