i thought i had to use the wires for the calibration button and LED also connected to the o2 harness. or just the power side goes on the o2 harness and the ground i can use any ground?
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White 12v from o2 --> RED LC1--> red wire for gauge
BLACK o2 --> YELLOW LC1---> White wire for gauge signal
White Ground from o2-->White,Blue LC1---> extra black wire for calibration ground
One side of the button-->BLK side Of LED--> the black wire that is tapped into the white/blue ground on o2
other side of Button--> Red Side OF LED--> BLACK LC1 wire
COMPLETE LOOK
....any inputs?or corrections? just have blk electrical tape on till i have it correct then ill solder it n shrink tube etc.
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those joints are a mess! :(
it would be better to have used new pins and crimped your new sensor into that plug, instead of soldering on stainless wires. did your twist jobs pass a pull test? it doesn't look like they would.
as far as using it with Motronic - the reason it doesn't work out of the box is because the warmup and error output voltages are set to a stupid value by default. you'll want to reprogram the narrowband outputs, use ~.45v for the error & warmup states.
I'd also do this even if you're using it with a standalone ECU, only you'd be setting the wideband error & warmup states to a stoich value.
what happens by default is the controller outputs a full-rich state while the sensor is warming up (which takes 10-15 seconds). During this time the ECU is seeing this full-rich value and is trying to correct for it. That makes the engine run like shit.
I have no idea why they default it to rich, the safer way would be to default the reading as lean, or even better, stoich so a cold/bad sensor doesn't have any effect at all.
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yeah it is a mess =/ but its just for testing not for the finished set up,pull test is solid except for the 2 wires to the gauge..so first reprogram the narrowband then test it out?i have a piggyback "UNICHIP" that the guy who i bought the kit from had it running on his ecu .i havent wired that up yet because i thought that wiring up the wideband 1st just to get it working was important, then i would wire the piggyback.This morning i pluged my messy wires to the o2 harness to test out ,with the key on and nothing came on, no led, gauge didnt come on , nothing i used this as a reference and am i doing something wrong over here ? www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50206
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the car has to be running. the O2 relay only energizes with the engine running.
Last edited by nando; 02-29-2012, 07:58 AM.
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-___- shoulda figured that out 1st....lol, but wouldnt a light atleast come on?or something would go on?since theres power n ground?Last edited by kelzzrocka; 02-29-2012, 08:40 AM.
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Nando, setting the default output to stoich is a good point, I never really looked into it.
In the last few plug and play kits, I've been using new pins and connectors
Wiring scheme is
Pin 1 - Sensor Ground (Grey) -> LC-1 White (sensor ground), one end of button, black pigtail of LED
Pin 2 - O2 Signal (Black) -> LC-1 Yellow (output 1, default narrowband output)
Pin 3 - Heater Ground (White) -> LC-1 Blue (system ground)
Pin 4 - 12v From o2 relay (White) -> LC-1 Red
Crimp them to bmw pn 61 13 1 376 202 and Re-use your old o2 plug housing. If you need new plastic housings, I have a bunch on hand. I also have a connector kit that is $30 shipped and will come with a boot, the housing, and 4 crimp connectors.
You will be left with a Black calibration wire, the red pigtail of the LED, and the other end of the momentary button. Connect the three (crimp/solder), and insulate it and stuff it away.
Derek
DedericMS
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