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    #16
    i thought i had to use the wires for the calibration button and LED also connected to the o2 harness. or just the power side goes on the o2 harness and the ground i can use any ground?

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      #17
      Take a picture of everything that you have.

      You should have a controller, a gauge, a little led, the sensor that goes in the exhaust, and a calibration button. Right? The calibration button needs the black wire.

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        #18
        White 12v from o2 --> RED LC1--> red wire for gauge


        BLACK o2 --> YELLOW LC1---> White wire for gauge signal


        White Ground from o2-->White,Blue LC1---> extra black wire for calibration ground


        One side of the button-->BLK side Of LED--> the black wire that is tapped into the white/blue ground on o2


        other side of Button--> Red Side OF LED--> BLACK LC1 wire


        COMPLETE LOOK


        ....any inputs?or corrections? just have blk electrical tape on till i have it correct then ill solder it n shrink tube etc.

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          #19
          those joints are a mess! :(

          it would be better to have used new pins and crimped your new sensor into that plug, instead of soldering on stainless wires. did your twist jobs pass a pull test? it doesn't look like they would.

          as far as using it with Motronic - the reason it doesn't work out of the box is because the warmup and error output voltages are set to a stupid value by default. you'll want to reprogram the narrowband outputs, use ~.45v for the error & warmup states.

          I'd also do this even if you're using it with a standalone ECU, only you'd be setting the wideband error & warmup states to a stoich value.

          what happens by default is the controller outputs a full-rich state while the sensor is warming up (which takes 10-15 seconds). During this time the ECU is seeing this full-rich value and is trying to correct for it. That makes the engine run like shit.

          I have no idea why they default it to rich, the safer way would be to default the reading as lean, or even better, stoich so a cold/bad sensor doesn't have any effect at all.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

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            #20
            yeah it is a mess =/ but its just for testing not for the finished set up,pull test is solid except for the 2 wires to the gauge..so first reprogram the narrowband then test it out?i have a piggyback "UNICHIP" that the guy who i bought the kit from had it running on his ecu .i havent wired that up yet because i thought that wiring up the wideband 1st just to get it working was important, then i would wire the piggyback.This morning i pluged my messy wires to the o2 harness to test out ,with the key on and nothing came on, no led, gauge didnt come on , nothing i used this as a reference and am i doing something wrong over here ? www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50206

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              #21
              the car has to be running. the O2 relay only energizes with the engine running.

              Last edited by nando; 02-29-2012, 07:58 AM.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #22
                -___- shoulda figured that out 1st....lol, but wouldnt a light atleast come on?or something would go on?since theres power n ground?
                Last edited by kelzzrocka; 02-29-2012, 08:40 AM.

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                  #23
                  Nando, setting the default output to stoich is a good point, I never really looked into it.

                  In the last few plug and play kits, I've been using new pins and connectors

                  Wiring scheme is

                  Pin 1 - Sensor Ground (Grey) -> LC-1 White (sensor ground), one end of button, black pigtail of LED
                  Pin 2 - O2 Signal (Black) -> LC-1 Yellow (output 1, default narrowband output)
                  Pin 3 - Heater Ground (White) -> LC-1 Blue (system ground)
                  Pin 4 - 12v From o2 relay (White) -> LC-1 Red

                  Crimp them to bmw pn 61 13 1 376 202 and Re-use your old o2 plug housing. If you need new plastic housings, I have a bunch on hand. I also have a connector kit that is $30 shipped and will come with a boot, the housing, and 4 crimp connectors.

                  You will be left with a Black calibration wire, the red pigtail of the LED, and the other end of the momentary button. Connect the three (crimp/solder), and insulate it and stuff it away.

                  Derek
                  DedericMS

                  All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
                  PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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                    #24
                    Thank you kelzzrocka & Blueapplesoda for the info, I was about to post a new thread and then I searched and found this.
                    sigpic

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