Begi issues; whos had em? Howd you fix it?

[Stabmasterflex]

My begi isnt right, the adjustments seem to have no effect. Ive backed the adjuster bolt right back and i still have 10psi showing on my fuel pressure gauge thats mounted between the two regulators.(at idle with signal line connected) My needle valve also does nothing and i rebuilt this thing just as the instructions say with begi kit. What im trying to say is.....wtf? Is a vac leak causing this pain? I have seen one in proper operation so i know what supposed to happen. It does do its rising rate duty but damn this thing seems like its f'd.

[jaywood]

10psi? That seems very low to me...Your pressure gauge is mounted in the wrong spot BTW. Here's what you should be doing:

Step 1: Install begi in-line on the fuel return line (top line on the FPR). After the FPR, before the hard line that goes back to the tank. Hook up the pressure/vacuum signal line (I tee-d mine off of the stock FPR line) and install the check valve.
Step 2: Put an in-line fuel pressure tester on the fuel FEED line (bottom line on FPR).

I bought 3 fuel pressure testers before I found the right one. Harbor freight. $15.
Step 3: Disconnect the signal line to the begi. Turn the car on. Adjust the top on-set screw (allen socket) until you have 45psi (more pressure = clockwise). Reconnect the pressure signal line once you're done.
Step 4: Pry off the cover of the AFM with a screwdriver (it's a bitch). Wait a few minutes for the car to warm up. Adjust it until you idle at ~14.5 AFR. This will depend on the size of the injectors you've chosen. For me, it was 3 clicks clockwise.
You can see below the paint marks in this picture.

Step 5: Reconnect the signal line. Drive the car. Adjust the needle adjustment screw until you feel comfortable with your AFRs. Clockwise = richer, counterclockwise = leaner. ~12.5 at full boost is a good safe point to shoot for. Once you have it drivable, take it onto the highway and log a long 3rd gear pull to redline to make sure that you're not leaning out up top or anything like that.

[Zacm829]

Yep, I fixed my begi issue with megasquirt.

[Stabmasterflex]

Ok then. I'll give it a try. I was wondering on that gauge location. The rest I've been doing. Thanks for the response. And thanks to the second guy too lol.

[jaywood]

Good luck!

[Stabmasterflex]

Finished the changes tonight. Went good. Biggest reason for begi issue-the one way valve was pooched. I moved the gauge and changed the valve and did a few pulls. The cover on the air flow meter popped up and then threw my numbers out of wack. But up till then it was the best it ever ran. Still need to fix my high idle and bov operation but a step in the right direction.

[bradnic]

I bought 3 fuel pressure testers before I found the right one. Harbor freight. $15.

this one? http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html
or this one? http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pu...ter-93547.html

[jaywood]

The first one.... http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-in...ter-92699.html

Make sure you use thread sealant and what not, otherwise it will leak. The fuel is under pretty high pressure!!

[bradnic]

Here's what you should be doing:

Step 1: Install begi in-line on the fuel return line (top line on the FPR). After the FPR, before the hard line that goes back to the tank. Hook up the pressure/vacuum signal line (I tee-d mine off of the stock FPR line) and install the check valve.

Step 2: Put an in-line fuel pressure tester on the fuel FEED line (bottom line on FPR).

I bought 3 fuel pressure testers before I found the right one. Harbor freight. $15.

Step 3: Disconnect the signal line to the begi. Turn the car on. Adjust the top on-set screw (allen socket) until you have 45psi (more pressure = clockwise). Reconnect the pressure signal line once you're done.

Step 4: Pry off the cover of the AFM with a screwdriver (it's a bitch). Wait a few minutes for the car to warm up. Adjust it until you idle at ~14.5 AFR. This will depend on the size of the injectors you've chosen. For me, it was 3 clicks clockwise.
You can see below the paint marks in this picture.

Step 5: Reconnect the signal line. Drive the car. Adjust the needle adjustment screw until you feel comfortable with your AFRs. Clockwise = richer, counterclockwise = leaner. ~12.5 at full boost is a good safe point to shoot for. Once you have it drivable, take it onto the highway and log a long 3rd gear pull to redline to make sure that you're not leaning out up top or anything like that.

Sorry to hijack, but continuing along the same discussion so I hope it's helpful to everyone. I can move this to a separate thread if the OP wants me too.

I must say this is the most concise, helpful description of how to tune in a begi equipped m42 turbo I've seen anywhere - THANKS Jaywood!

<begin hijack>
Followed instructions to the letter and definitely got my car running much better. I don't have a wideband O2 sensor so haven't really been able to do much tuning yet (will try a multimeter with the O2 sensor). Car wouldn't idle at all. PO did a greddy/mitsu turbo setup but it wasn't running right when I bought it. turned out CHRA was fried. working fine with a new replacement now, boost gauge reading about 7 PSI peak. engine is stock with mustang injectors

I ended up redoing all the vacuum lines (per mess under the intake thread) and rerouting fuel lines, fuel gauge etc per steps 1 and 2. adjusted fuel pressure to 45 psi per step 3, and tweaked the AFM per step 4. I had to go 6-7 clicks though which seems excessive. Once I did that the car finally started idling reasonably well at 800 rpm.

Car will still stall out after running though, unless you ease the revs down to 1k or so before letting off the throttle. otherwise it will drop to 500 rpm or so and stall. oil pressure light is coming on sometimes at idle too.

Any suggestions on dealing with the idle? is 6-7 clicks on the AFM excessive? no idea what it was set to before so maybe this isn't a bad thing.
</end hijack>

[jaywood]

How long have you been driving it? Motronic takes some time to "learn" the new setup.

[bradnic]

yeah good call on that. about 45 minutes so far. taking it out again and we'll see. patience is a good thing here I suppose.

what about the 6-7 clicks on the AFM - too much?

thanks for the reply jaywood

[jaywood]

Hmmm. It might take a bit longer. Once it does learn the setup, try to not unplug the battery. Motronic loses its memory when you unplug the batt.

Did you turn the wheel clockwise? Did you let your car warm up when you adjusted it? Of you have a wideband?

[bradnic]

Hmmm. It might take a bit longer. Once it does learn the setup, try to not unplug the battery. Motronic loses its memory when you unplug the batt.

Did you turn the wheel clockwise? Did you let your car warm up when you adjusted it? Of you have a wideband?

- Gonna go back and check direction - marked the original location. I suspect I went the wrong way!
EDIT: I leaned it out (counter clockwise per your note). So it was the right direction.
- Engine was definitely warmed up yeah.
- An LC-1 is on the shopping list but no joy yet

[619E30]

I highly highly recommend getting a wideband.

[unevolved]

I highly highly recommend getting a wideband.

This. Cannot agree enough. I'd even go so far as to say do NOT run under boost without a wideband. Without a wideband, all you're really doing is guessing that you're giving the engine enough fuel, and you're gambling with your motor's life.