Holset m20 turbo Q's

[ST1G]

What farbin said.
Even with a .140 MLS gasket lowering conpression, an m52 or s5x is anything but a dog daily driving and makes very good useable power literally anywhere in the power band with a 35r slapped on.

If I had 2 years with a second car to daily and the knowledge ahead of time, that's what I would of done slowly but surely.
So many tuning solutions out there for 24v now.

Just 24v then TRM tarbo.

I know Farbin has gone over this with me before, may times, i'm just retarded. My big thing is cost, i'm still in college and it seems like doing a 24v swap and then a turbo is quite a bit more expensive, but then again, maybe its worth it.

Farbin has stated that the best way to do this is get a 328i or m3 and that gets me pretty much all I need.

If i'm going to turbo wouldn't an m50 be fine?

Do you have any links to good 24v turbo builds? please excuse my noob.

[Farbin Kaiber]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=171728

[ak-]

An m52 is a great motor for boost. Relatively cheap as a motor itself.
I'm on a phone so linking is annoying, but browse bimmerforum's forced induction section. It's literally all just boosted e36's.

Look at it like this:
Built/reliable/quality m20 turbo with meth and management making 400hp = $$$$
Stock swapped m/s5x turbo conservatively making same 400hp = $$$$
Stock m20 turbo being strained/abused making 400hp = $$ + $$ long run when shit breaks.
Stock m20 turbo conservatively making happy 300hp = $$

[ST1G]

An m52 is a great motor for boost. Relatively cheap as a motor itself.
I'm on a phone so linking is annoying, but browse bimmerforum's forced induction section. It's literally all just boosted e36's.

Look at it like this:
Built/reliable/quality m20 turbo with meth and management making 400hp = $$$$
Stock swapped m/s5x turbo conservatively making same 400hp = $$$$
Stock m20 turbo being strained/abused making 400hp = $$ + $$ long run when shit breaks.
Stock m20 turbo conservatively making happy 300hp = $$

Well shoot, you guys are making me change my mind. My think is with budget constraints it would be eiser to get parts over time. Should I try to just first assemble parts for the motor swap, then move to the turbo?

I'll do some searching and reading and what i can find about which 24v turbo like you said. I really appreciate your help.

[Farbin Kaiber]

Yes. Find the parts car we spoke of. Buy, and partout while getting your needed bits. The money you make from the rest of the car will more than cover the needed parts for the 24v swap, and likely net you 40% of what you would need to buy a used TRM kit. One sold, or was up for sale, from Duskin (the guy with the wb e36 m3/acs wb e36/r35 GTR) in the $4,000 range IIRC. You could do it in two stages. I would suggest that, 24v in, work out bugs, then get tarbo majik mystical unicorn noise making device.

[TheTacoMan]

Hmmm. That's no good. I would ideally like something that hits in the 3k rangeish.

Maybe i'll skip it, a deal is only a deal if you need it.

I spool at 2300ish Rpms, kamotors is even faster. M52s are alot better than m20s in a few ways. But if you are building your turbo system, m20 is the way to go imo. Parts are cheaper, and if you go boom. Its an m20, go buy another one for cheap

Bottom line is my motor is a 2.7l on meth and the total cost of the entire turbo was 2-2300$.
M52 will be the same or more plus the motor swap.
For you first experience with boost m20 is a good option then when you want a lot of power and a new motor then Swap it.

[ST1G]

Yes. Find the parts car we spoke of. Buy, and partout while getting your needed bits. The money you make from the rest of the car will more than cover the needed parts for the 24v swap, and likely net you 40% of what you would need to buy a used TRM kit. One sold, or was up for sale, from Duskin (the guy with the wb e36 m3/acs wb e36/r35 GTR) in the $4,000 range IIRC. You could do it in two stages. I would suggest that, 24v in, work out bugs, then get tarbo majik mystical unicorn noise making device.

Hmmmm. this is sounding more and more appealing. I guess I need to stash money away and find a 328i. The more I read the more I think a m52 would be ideal and in the long run a better option. After reading about the TRM kit it makes it seem pretty easy to get a tarbo set up going. It also sounds like if you do it right and work out the bugs you can have a car that will last for quite a while and be quite comfortable, and pushes boost in a real usable range.

[nando]

Bottom line holsets are way too bug for m20s.

this is absolutely not true.

[ST1G]

this is absolutely not true.

I thought it wasn't since most people run holset HX35's.

[nando]

if you're not spooling until 4500-5000rpm, something is very wrong!

boost leaks, wrong ignition, exhaust restrictions, etc. etc..

[obrian]

My car has a hx35 12cm, megasquirt, and arps with a stock 91,000 mile head gasket, 3" turbo to rear, and huge intercooler, 3" charge pipes, 60lb injectors, big fuel pump. Right now I'm at 12lbs, turned down from 20lbs. The car is still wicked fast, just not uncontrollably fast like at 20lbs. Drivability is very good. 500 miles of daily since the different m20. My first try whent down in melted pistons. Easy recipe for a fast car. I had a tubinetics t3/t4 60.1 with super h compressor at first but it died with the melted piston. I am not using the holset to its potential at the low boost right now, but its very close to spooling the same as the fancy turbinetics. When the boost gets turned back up I'm sure the hx will work awesome.

[kamotors]

if you're not spooling until 4500-5000rpm, something is very wrong!

boost leaks, wrong ignition, exhaust restrictions, etc. etc..

Holset H1c is at full boost at 5k, I think that's what some people are trying to say, of course it starts spooling sooner.

Holset is a brand....there are many different holset turbos that will work better than others.

Hx35 I believe has a smaller exhaust housing that the big H1c so it will spool quicker and have better driveability.

[redsubdivisions]

My car has a hx35 12cm, megasquirt, and arps with a stock 91,000 mile head gasket, 3" turbo to rear, and huge intercooler, 3" charge pipes, 60lb injectors, big fuel pump. Right now I'm at 12lbs, turned down from 20lbs. The car is still wicked fast, just not uncontrollably fast like at 20lbs. Drivability is very good. 500 miles of daily since the different m20. My first try whent down in melted pistons. Easy recipe for a fast car. I had a tubinetics t3/t4 60.1 with super h compressor at first but it died with the melted piston. I am not using the holset to its potential at the low boost right now, but its very close to spooling the same as the fancy turbinetics. When the boost gets turned back up I'm sure the hx will work awesome.

I am in love with this picture/setup. Simple and clean looking!

[obrian]

Thanks man. I don't think turboing these motors needs to be overly complicated. They make more than enough power with the basic boost stuff.

[codrum]

Holset H1c is at full boost at 5k, I think that's what some people are trying to say, of course it starts spooling sooner.

Holset is a brand....there are many different holset turbos that will work better than others.

Hx35 I believe has a smaller exhaust housing that the big H1c so it will spool quicker and have better driveability.

I agree with this. I'd love to try the 12cm housing on an HX35, I think the H1C is old diesel tech that gets the job done but there are much better options. I'm running a full 3" turbo back straight-through exhaust tuned with MS. There's probably more power to be found in the ignition tune but from my understanding, more advanced means slower spool anyhow. I'd also rather have a reliable setup and sacrifice some power.

I'm using a 666 fab adapter that's choking the turbo some. That could be replaced with a nice equal length to free up some spool time but that gets costly.

Overall I'm very happy with my setup mostly because it never breaks down and makes enough power to tear up the twistys in the mountains. There's plenty of time down the road to change things up.