Yea I've heard of a few people running 93mm pistons in an m10 block I'm pretty sure
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Originally posted by SkiFree View Postthebutterson - You CANNOT run 92mm pistons in an M10 block.
92mm is what Metric Mechanic uses in their m10 builds.
Also used by Top End Performance
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Originally posted by thebutterson View Post92mm is what Metric Mechanic uses in their m10 builds.
Also used by Top End Performance
http://www.racetep.com/bmwngin.html#02cOriginally posted by tbruz View PostYea I've heard of a few people running 93mm pistons in an m10 block I'm pretty sure
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Originally posted by tbruz View PostAlrite, I mite see if I could contact him somehow. I'm doing the work myself. I just want solid parts and a proven build. I don't wanna put it together being a mystery what it's going to do the whole time.sigpic
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
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Originally posted by SkiFree View PostGo for a 92mm or 93mm bore while boosting it, I am by no means stopping you (and it's not worth arguing).
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Originally posted by thebutterson View PostYou said CANNOT, not "should not if you're boosting". Feel free to post up what you think should be done, what you've seen work/not work. Nobody here is claiming to know the absolute best method of going about an m10 turbo build.
You have a point, I'm sorry for not being a little more forthcoming.
Once you start passing 91mm, I'm of the opinion that the gains don't justify the sacrifice of the cylinder wall thickness. I actually recommend to just go to 90mm bore for extra insurance (but still one mm overbore). If you are looking to squeeze everybit of horsepower then, sure, go 92-93mm, but the reality is you won't feel much seat-of-the-pants difference and simply end up sacrificing engine longevity.
I understand that this is a lot of conjecture and I'm not bringing hard numbers to the table, my point being opinions will vary.
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I understand where you are coming from Ski. There are very minimal gains to be had from increasing bore size vs stroke. The closer you are to max bore the more problems. I only went 1mm overbore on my S14. M10 blocks are more common and a lot cheaper though."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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Originally posted by SkiFree View Postthebutterson - You CANNOT run 92mm pistons in an M10 block.
Last time I checked Ebay the B23 (84mm) cranks were 750€ or so, and a new crank w/ bearing shells is 1300€ around here. Pistons would have to be with ~40mm compression height, if one is using stock M10 connecting rods.Last edited by petrolhead; 05-19-2012, 06:53 AM.
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I'm telling you man, don't throw a bunch of money at the m10, you have a 2.7i that would like the boost better than an expensive overbuilt m10 (we met at the Gilroy caravan). Get a standard 2.0L block from a 2002, slightly build the 318i head (double valve springs, HD rockers, and maybe a cam if you feel) and you should have around a 8.0:1 CR setup to throw around 20-30 lbs of boost at. That should be good for around 300-350 rwhp from a HX35 (your Precision should be around that)
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Yeah, radio's were shit. Front bolt on my fuel rail came loose, and started spraying fuel from the top of the front injector. Fixed that in about 2 minutes (brought a nearly complete tool kit with me, haha) but later had some more driveability issues (tracked it down to a loose reference wire on the starter) and ended up loosing the group. I think I missed where you all turned off for lunch
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