Yea I've heard of a few people running 93mm pistons in an m10 block I'm pretty sure
Questions about m10 s14 stroker
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92mm is what Metric Mechanic uses in their m10 builds.
Also used by Top End Performance
Top End Performance has been your source for the best prices on brand name, top quality car parts since 1994. Our commitment to providing the best parts at the best prices is topped only by our dedication to providing the very best service to our clients. We are here to help - that's the Top End difference.Comment
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From what I have read, 91mm is about the max you want to run with a Forced Induction setup in a m10.Comment
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I'm sorry, it's a little hard to take you guys seriously. Go for a 92mm or 93mm bore while boosting it, I am by no means stopping you (and it's not worth arguing).92mm is what Metric Mechanic uses in their m10 builds.
Also used by Top End Performance
http://www.racetep.com/bmwngin.html#02cComment
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Definately call JP. He is a really nice guy and knows what he is doing. I live about 5 minutes from his shop. I saw that motor Andrew posted a picture of. It amazing. When The air box is removed you can see strait down the intake runners to the valves. Beautiful. :Dsigpic
"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."
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You said CANNOT, not "should not if you're boosting". Feel free to post up what you think should be done, what you've seen work/not work. Nobody here is claiming to know the absolute best method of going about an m10 turbo build.Comment
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You have a point, I'm sorry for not being a little more forthcoming.
Once you start passing 91mm, I'm of the opinion that the gains don't justify the sacrifice of the cylinder wall thickness. I actually recommend to just go to 90mm bore for extra insurance (but still one mm overbore). If you are looking to squeeze everybit of horsepower then, sure, go 92-93mm, but the reality is you won't feel much seat-of-the-pants difference and simply end up sacrificing engine longevity.
I understand that this is a lot of conjecture and I'm not bringing hard numbers to the table, my point being opinions will vary.Comment
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I understand where you are coming from Ski. There are very minimal gains to be had from increasing bore size vs stroke. The closer you are to max bore the more problems. I only went 1mm overbore on my S14. M10 blocks are more common and a lot cheaper though."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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Yes you can. It's just that a M10B18 block might/will crack. Just need to find a block cast before 1979 or so.
Last time I checked Ebay the B23 (84mm) cranks were 750€ or so, and a new crank w/ bearing shells is 1300€ around here. Pistons would have to be with ~40mm compression height, if one is using stock M10 connecting rods.Last edited by petrolhead; 05-19-2012, 05:53 AM.Comment
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Cool cool, yea I checked out a lot of 2002's yesterday at bimmerfest. A lot of different set ups but I think one of my favorite has to be a 2.2 m10 set up with the ti block. I'll do more research on it when I get home but I'm thinking thats what I'm going to do for the bottomComment
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I'm telling you man, don't throw a bunch of money at the m10, you have a 2.7i that would like the boost better than an expensive overbuilt m10 (we met at the Gilroy caravan). Get a standard 2.0L block from a 2002, slightly build the 318i head (double valve springs, HD rockers, and maybe a cam if you feel) and you should have around a 8.0:1 CR setup to throw around 20-30 lbs of boost at. That should be good for around 300-350 rwhp from a HX35 (your Precision should be around that)Comment
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Yea I thought ab boosting my 325 but idk I think the m10 would just be more fun for a starter. Pulled the motor today I'm boutta start putting together a parts list pretty soon! Dude what happen to you on the way down? I saw you pull off but I couldn't hear shit on the radio.Comment
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Yeah, radio's were shit. Front bolt on my fuel rail came loose, and started spraying fuel from the top of the front injector. Fixed that in about 2 minutes (brought a nearly complete tool kit with me, haha) but later had some more driveability issues (tracked it down to a loose reference wire on the starter) and ended up loosing the group. I think I missed where you all turned off for lunchComment


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