Camshaft Seal Leaking

[rudy]

Hi all. A while back I had noticed a slight oil leak which was getting onto the head and exhaust manifold, then dripping down further. This leak has now gotten so bad that it leaves a little stain of oil on the ground right below the ac compressor after parking my car for even just a few hours.

From the top, you can see that the area where the valve cover meets the timing cover is very wet on the right side of the engine. You can then follow it downwards onto the exhaust manifold, head, block, and finally the ac compressor.

My assumption is that this is the cam seal and o-ring. When I first got my car, I did the timing belt and intended to replace these as well, but the bolt stripped on me because I tried to follow the Bentley's method of holding the cam sprocket still using the old timing belt and vice grips. I honestly can't remember how badly stripped it is, but I suppose it may be possible to remove it with the same size socket if I were to try to loosen it with the timing belt still on since that'd let me get a better grip on the bolt. I never addressed the issue further because I wasn't aware of the proper way to get the sprocket off at the time and I was advised to just worry about it later.

Unfortunately, it's now later. It's also important to note that my car is an early model which requires using a male torx socket. Since it's stripped now, I'm looking for advice on how to get it out without removing the head. From what I've read, it seems like welding a nut, tapping in a bigger socket, and drilling the bolt out are the best options. Please give me your guys' experiences or advice on this! Thanks!

[digger]

Some genius striped mine and I had to drill out.

[82eye]

i'd pop the valve cover and check the gasket as well. good time for a valve adjustment.

i got rid of the bmw truffle-star bolt on mine and went to a hex due to the original bolt rounding off when i removed the cam gear. honestly think the hex is a better option. i had to pound an undersize 12 point socket on the old one to remove it as the proper torx socket wound up useless. you might try that, but it's a one time shot, if it doesn't work you're probably in worse shape than what you've got already.

[rudy]

i'd pop the valve cover and check the gasket as well. good time for a valve adjustment.

i got rid of the bmw truffle-star bolt on mine and went to a hex due to the original bolt rounding off when i removed the cam gear. honestly think the hex is a better option. i had to pound an undersize 12 point socket on the old one to remove it as the proper torx socket wound up useless. you might try that, but it's a one time shot, if it doesn't work you're probably in worse shape than what you've got already.

I adjusted the valves and replaced the gasket a bit over 1k miles ago so I think they're still fine. Thanks for the info about pounding on the undersize socket though. Since mine is the earlier style bolt I'm thinking of pounding in an oversize socket.

[82eye]

I adjusted the valves and replaced the gasket a bit over 1k miles ago so I think they're still fine. Thanks for the info about pounding on the undersize socket though. Since mine is the earlier style bolt I'm thinking of pounding in an oversize socket.

i've welded bolts and sockets in before as a last resort. it's an awfully finicky area to do that however. i'm wondering if an easy out would fit in there at all.


edit : btw it's super easy to source a 8mm hex bolt in the proper grade as a replacement. the one i got is actually a grade higher as that's where they normally start. the hex is deeper than the older style, offering far better purchase, and less chance of stripping or damaging the bolt, and is easier to toque in. literally pennies from a local bolt supply house.


more edit : if you manage to get something on there - a quick snap - rather than slowly applying more and more pressure is best. rotating things backwards is dangerous. you want the bolt to break loose before things move back.. it's not impossible, but if that bolt has never come out of the cam it may be best if the head is off the car.

[rudy]

i've welded bolts and sockets in before as a last resort. it's an awfully finicky area to do that however. i'm wondering if an easy out would fit in there at all.


edit : btw it's super easy to source a 8mm hex bolt in the proper grade as a replacement. the one i got is actually a grade higher as that's where they normally start. the hex is deeper than the older style, offering far better purchase, and less chance of stripping or damaging the bolt, and is easier to toque in. literally pennies from a local bolt supply house.


more edit : if you manage to get something on there - a quick snap - rather than slowly applying more and more pressure is best. rotating things backwards is dangerous. you want the bolt to break loose before things move back.. it's not impossible, but if that bolt has never come out of the cam it may be best if the head is off the car.

Great info! According to RealOEM I should be getting an m10 bolt that's 35mm in length, which a place near me has. What grade bolt should I get though, 8.8 or 10.9?

My neighbor's lent me a mac screw extractor set, so I'm planning to use that if tapping in a larger socket doesn't work. I'm hoping it can fit if all goes bad.

[82eye]

Great info! According to RealOEM I should be getting an m10 bolt that's 35mm in length, which a place near me has. What grade bolt should I get though, 8.8 or 10.9?

My neighbor's lent me a mac screw extractor set, so I'm planning to use that if tapping in a larger socket doesn't work. I'm hoping it can fit if all goes bad.

yes you're correct it is m10. sorry.
8.5 - 8.8 or higher is generally automotive grade outside of torque to yield - ie : can not re use once torqued. go with the higher spec 10.9 and don't worry.

[Lugnuts]

Torque on the camshaft bolt is ~50ft/lb, which shouldn't be too hard to back out. I've undone mine trying to turn the engine backwards using the cam bolt with the spark plugs still installed. Granted my bolt was in good shape to begin with...

If you have the stock timing arrangement, with the plastic arm attached to the end of the camshaft, a socket head cap screw might be worth considering. You may be limited on bolt head diameter.