Best "order of operations" for 327i turbo build

[jc1000]

Hello! I am looking for some general guidance on my first build: M20B27 ETA bottom end (block/crank/pistons) with a rebuilt 885 "i" head plus turbo. I am also planning on doing a manual transmission swap.

So far, I have taken the head to the machine shop and will finish assembling it soon.

While I have lots of specific questions, right now I am trying to put together a rough "build plan" so I can prepare accordingly. Here are my questions:

1. I have no idea what kind of shape the bottom end is in and the car doesn't currently run, so I can't check compression, etc. Can I check the health of the bottom end without a complete disassembly? Or is that the only way to tell what shape it is in? In other words, should I tear it down or not?
2. With the transmission swap, does it make the most sense to pull the engine, attach the trans, then put the two back in together?
3. Is this the best order for what I need to do?
   1. Any bottom end work
   2. Assemble engine
   3. Attach transmission and install
   4. Additional trans swap work
   5. Turbo
   6. Wiring, etc.

Thanks!

[reelizmpro]

Sounds about right and that's what I do, except I would use the SuperETA bottom end because of the domed pistons, 8.5:1 compression and it having provisions for the front crank sensor but these are harder to come by. Yes, you should definitely tear down the bottom end. It would be silly not to at least change the bearings because you don't know if they are any good. I would tear it down, send the block to get tanked, decked and honed then rering the pistons (if you are reusing them) as well. This way there is no doubt the bottom end is fresh and true. You don't want any bottom end problems later.

I always prefer to assemble the engine and trans before installing both as a unit. It's a little harder to get in from the top with an engine hoist but a leveler makes it easier. Super easy to drop everything from the bottom if you have a lift or some way to raise the body. Do the trans swap at the same time you are ready to install the engine. It's much easier to install the new flywheel/clutch, line up the trans and torque down the bell housing bolts with everything out of the car. The shifter console and linkage can also be installed as well since room is pretty limited in the tunnel.

[hasa]

I might consider trans swap work with empty block first.

[jc1000]

Sounds about right and that's what I do, except I would use the SuperETA bottom end because of the domed pistons, 8.5:1 compression and it having provisions for the front crank sensor but these are harder to come by. Yes, you should definitely tear down the bottom end. It would be silly not to at least change the bearings because you don't know if they are any good. I would tear it down, send the block to get tanked, decked and honed then rering the pistons (if you are reusing them) as well. This way there is no doubt the bottom end is fresh and true. You don't want any bottom end problems later.

I always prefer to assemble the engine and trans before installing both as a unit. It's a little harder to get in from the top with an engine hoist but a leveler makes it easier. Super easy to drop everything from the bottom if you have a lift or some way to raise the body. Do the trans swap at the same time you are ready to install the engine. It's much easier to install the new flywheel/clutch, line up the trans and torque down the bell housing bolts with everything out of the car. The shifter console and linkage can also be installed as well since room is pretty limited in the tunnel.

Thanks. I already have the M20B27 (non-super) ETA, so that is my reason for going with that.

Thanks for confirming to attach the trans first then put the two in as a single unit. I unfortunately do not have a lift, so I think I will have to go in from the top.

[jc1000]

I might consider trans swap work with empty block first.

Can you expand a bit? I'm not sure I understand.

[hasa]

If you have all parts of trans swap that fit bolt-on 100% sure, then forget my comment. But if you need to do any custom brackets for tranny, adjust crank centerline/angle, measure driveshaft length etc... it is easier to do with empty block than fully dressed block.