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The TPS is adjusted properly via Bentley manual specifications. It is also a new TPS that was replaced recently. The penny trick is when you drill a hole into a penny and stick it on your idle control valve so that you can restrict the air going into the idle control valve via the size of the hole you made in the penny. The larger the hole, the higher the idle. The smaller the hole, the lower the idle.
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Originally posted by hurryupcole View PostThe TPS is adjusted properly via Bentley manual specifications. It is also a new TPS that was replaced recently. The penny trick is when you drill a hole into a penny and stick it on your idle control valve so that you can restrict the air going into the idle control valve via the size of the hole you made in the penny. The larger the hole, the higher the idle. The smaller the hole, the lower the idle.
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I'm sure your dad is a fine electrician so I do not want to challenge that out of respect. With that said, it is of the highest importance that all connections are repaired COPPER TO COPPER. I always overlap the copper strands attempting to weave them together, crimp a connector over the "patch," spray the connection with dialectic spray and shrink wrap. Many of the fuel injection circuits run on resistance values based on stock harness conductivity - one false repair and the data going to your ECU is wrong.
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Understood, everything was spliced via soldering, all copper to copper connections were twisted together tightly, then soldered, and heat shrink to cover the splice and I promise you the car doesn't miss a beat. As per the injector side of the wiring harness, I had no injector pulse after the fire obviously because that's what happens when you have a short in that circuit. Well actually I had 4 sets of injector wires melted together so I ordered some late model BOSCH EV1 injector plugs to make for easy quick disconnect when I want to get them rebuilt, take the head or intake manifold off, etc. I also had alternator wires burnt together which is okay shouldn't effect anything with my ECU idle readings. That was also fixed as well though.. the battery light was lit up on the dash, after my electrical work it went out and the battery was charging again. That is interesting though now that I think about it, is there a way to test and see the that my ECU is getting the proper values from all of my sensors? I do have a Bentley manual I can reference to if the info is in there.
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Originally posted by 82eye View Post
there was something about no 02 sensor in there as well. first thing i would do is get the car back to stock.
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Originally posted by hurryupcole View Post
I am going to an exhaust shop this week to get a new system and bung for an o2 sensor installed into it. I already have a new o2 sensor waiting for the exhaust. I don't believe that is my problem because the car ran fine without it for a year. But I am still going to get it running how it is supposed to be. I guess this would affect my fuel economy as well.
you mention you have trouble right from start up though, so the missing 02 sensor may be only one part of the problem.
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Originally posted by e30austin View Postyou need to eliminate the yellow coolant temperature sensor. cut the ends off the connector and bridge the wires together.
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yellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.'72 2002 | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '95 911 | '02 M5 | '04 RR HSE
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Originally posted by e30austin View Postyellow temp sensor handles cold start to 20c. if that switch fails, it's always thinking it's in open loop. BMW no longer sells a correct switch as a replacement for the yellow one. the purple is a sender only, no switch involved. the "fix" is to eliminate it because it's absolutely pointless.
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