M20b25 to M20b27 swap troubles
E30 Rookie here.
Purchased 1990 325i from someone who was going to crush it, M20B25, 6 Button OBC, 173 ECU, Auto Trans. Non running and failed leak down test, timing belt had snapped prior to purchase. A friend of mine had a good running M20B27 Manual trans, 027 Mot. 1.0 ECU all from an 87 325e and I purchased it with intent to put it in the 325i chassis as finding an M20B25 on short notice proved difficult.
Engine cranks, no spark or fuel. Using 325e harness and ECU. Using 325i auto trans starter to make use of the unloader switch inside of it. Crank trigger pin on flywheel was repaired but intact. 12v can be traced from the coil down to the pin inside the distributor cap but does not make it past the rotor. Fuel pump could NOT be heard throughout start attempts unless relay was jumped. With DME relay also jumped I tested the ECU connector and all power to the unit was good, grounds were good and ohms for the crank sensor and speed sensor were within spec. I’m at a loss, am I missing something that has to do with the different chassis? Any help appreciated. I’ve read many forums but I can’t seem to find help with this exact situation/idiotic swap. If I can’t make it run with the factory tech, I’ll be wiring a mega squirt and a switch panel but figured this was worth a shot.
Purchased 1990 325i from someone who was going to crush it, M20B25, 6 Button OBC, 173 ECU, Auto Trans. Non running and failed leak down test, timing belt had snapped prior to purchase. A friend of mine had a good running M20B27 Manual trans, 027 Mot. 1.0 ECU all from an 87 325e and I purchased it with intent to put it in the 325i chassis as finding an M20B25 on short notice proved difficult.
Engine cranks, no spark or fuel. Using 325e harness and ECU. Using 325i auto trans starter to make use of the unloader switch inside of it. Crank trigger pin on flywheel was repaired but intact. 12v can be traced from the coil down to the pin inside the distributor cap but does not make it past the rotor. Fuel pump could NOT be heard throughout start attempts unless relay was jumped. With DME relay also jumped I tested the ECU connector and all power to the unit was good, grounds were good and ohms for the crank sensor and speed sensor were within spec. I’m at a loss, am I missing something that has to do with the different chassis? Any help appreciated. I’ve read many forums but I can’t seem to find help with this exact situation/idiotic swap. If I can’t make it run with the factory tech, I’ll be wiring a mega squirt and a switch panel but figured this was worth a shot.
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