Decking block for budget stroker

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  • Nohawkscott
    Noobie
    • Apr 2025
    • 31

    #1

    Decking block for budget stroker

    I’ve heard all the basic guidance for the needed machine work to the m20 block for this build but I want to ask the pros here before my machinist starts removing material.

    This build has been done many times before but here are the details:
    M20B25 Block
    M20B27 Crank
    M20B27 Rods
    M20B25 Pistons .050” over
    885 Cylinder Head .008” removed
    Stock M20B25 Cam

    My current question is regarding the amount to deck the block. I’ve heard that 2mm is the norm but the machinist is being thrown off by the funky profile of the pistons. I’ve attached some pictures he’s sent me today of the piston position at TDC, he’s not wanting to screw up the piston to head clearance. What would the recommended decking amount be? I feel like the .008” removed from the head should be deducted from the 2mm (.0787)
    I'm not looking for the max CR here at all, just a good, reliable engine..

    Also I seem to remember seeing a picture on one of the 5,000 threads I’ve read that showed a 325i piston at TDC with a machinists ruler laid across it, showing how it sits proud of the block but I can’t find that picture anywhere now..

    What do you guys think?
    Attached Files
  • digger
    R3V Elite
    • Nov 2005
    • 5962

    #2
    The nominal value is 2mm but,

    The more accurate method (tbh the correct way) is to use is get a spare head gasket (same thickness as you plan to use) or some shims the same thickness, the head in question (w/o rockers/cam installed ideally) and machine the block such to set the squish (clearance between piston and head) to 0.040" +/- say 0.005" at the big chamfer area around the perimeter checking using clay, or solder etc. The chamfer area on piston mates to the chamfer area on the 885 head

    areas on head (corresponding area on piston should be obvious)

    be sure to check piston to valve clearance to

    Last edited by digger; Yesterday, 02:02 PM.
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

    Comment

    • Nohawkscott
      Noobie
      • Apr 2025
      • 31

      #3
      Thanks for the guidance digger, you’re a legend sir.

      Im taking my head over to the machine shop in the morning, along with a head gasket, the old head bolts and some play doh. The head is assembled though and I really don’t want to take it apart again. Is there a particular reason why it would be better if the head was disassembled?

      Comment

      • digger
        R3V Elite
        • Nov 2005
        • 5962

        #4
        Originally posted by Nohawkscott
        Thanks for the guidance digger, you’re a legend sir.

        Im taking my head over to the machine shop in the morning, along with a head gasket, the old head bolts and some play doh. The head is assembled though and I really don’t want to take it apart again. Is there a particular reason why it would be better if the head was disassembled?
        just dont rotate the engine fully without a timing belt for obvious reasons. you could put at TDC #1 (and #6) and use clay on those and then put head on without rotating the crank
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

        Comment

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