Noob m20 rebuild question

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  • 884door
    Grease Monkey
    • Nov 2008
    • 380

    #16
    IMO the limiting factor for most m20s (second to tuning) is the low compression. With custom pistons in the 10:1 range that could actually clear the valves you'd be able to make some serious power.

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    • RangerGress
      Member
      • Feb 2008
      • 91

      #17
      Chip the motor. If you want more hp then that you will probably have to spend >$100/hp and that's madness. Pretty soon it's cheaper to do a turbo or motor swap.
      www.Gress.org

      All that is necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing. -E. Burke

      NASA SpecE30 #6, BMWCCA #161
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      • nando
        Moderator
        • Nov 2003
        • 34827

        #18
        Originally posted by RangerGress
        Chip the motor. If you want more hp then that you will probably have to spend >$100/hp and that's madness. Pretty soon it's cheaper to do a turbo or motor swap.
        that's exagerrating a bit.. maybe $20/hp, 30 on the high side. But a fully built M20 is a completely different animal from a swap or a turbo. apples/oranges
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        • RangerGress
          Member
          • Feb 2008
          • 91

          #19
          Originally posted by nando
          that's exagerrating a bit.. maybe $20/hp, 30 on the high side.
          It's not an exaggeration. A chip might get you an honest 15hp so now you are at 165-170hp at the wheels. Since SpecE30 uses an unmodified M20 we have lots of dyno sheets that indicate that 150hp/tq is pretty good, and 158 means a cherry build with some time on a dyno testing different AFM's and ECU's.

          Even if the chip does as well as the chip-guy likes to believe, >170hp is unlikely. So now the OP has to get beyond 170hp and it's going to be expensive.

          Metric Mechanic can build him a hot head with an aggressive cam and springs, but it's likely to cost $2500. Add lighter pistons and rods and stronger rockers and the motor should be able to rev to up to what, 7500rpm? Since hp is tied to revs, that will mean > power. But all that's going to cost.

          Forged standard pistons are like $1200. God only knows how much custom pistons would be.

          So how would you get >170hp at $30/hp?
          www.Gress.org

          All that is necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing. -E. Burke

          NASA SpecE30 #6, BMWCCA #161
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          • nando
            Moderator
            • Nov 2003
            • 34827

            #20
            I'm talking building an over 200 crank HP engine from scratch.. not adding stuff onto the existing engine. say, $6k.

            $100/HP would mean a 230bhp M20 would cost $23000. er, yeah. Even if you bought all of the "unobtanium" parts (billet rockers, dbilas ITBs, $1200 pistons), you couldn't possibly spend that much.

            MM does good work but their cams are way too conservative if you wanted to make a lot of power. They are designed as engines that can still pass emissions.. so of course they will cost a lot more/HP. But still nowhere near $100.
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            • RangerGress
              Member
              • Feb 2008
              • 91

              #21
              Originally posted by nando
              I'm talking building an over 200 crank HP engine from scratch.. not adding stuff onto the existing engine. say, $6k.

              $100/HP would mean a 230bhp M20 would cost $23000. er, yeah. Even if you bought all of the "unobtanium" parts (billet rockers, dbilas ITBs, $1200 pistons), you couldn't possibly spend that much.

              MM does good work but their cams are way too conservative if you wanted to make a lot of power. They are designed as engines that can still pass emissions.. so of course they will cost a lot more/HP. But still nowhere near $100.
              Agreed, but that is not the scenario my first post described. If you start with 170hp, each additional hp is going to be pricey.
              www.Gress.org

              All that is necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing. -E. Burke

              NASA SpecE30 #6, BMWCCA #161
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              • nando
                Moderator
                • Nov 2003
                • 34827

                #22
                he said rebuild though - unless he's in a spec series like you, it doesn't make a lot of sense to stick with the stock bottom end if you want more power.

                oh yeah, I gained 10whp with a K&N cone filter. that's like $5/hp. Not on a stock engine but still. :p
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                • RangerGress
                  Member
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 91

                  #23
                  Originally posted by nando
                  he said rebuild though - unless he's in a spec series like you, it doesn't make a lot of sense to stick with the stock bottom end if you want more power.

                  oh yeah, I gained 10whp with a K&N cone filter. that's like $5/hp. Not on a stock engine but still. :p
                  Unusual. We've done a lot of dyno testing of different intake designs. Only one guy was able to equal the OEM intake. Every other scheme did worse.
                  www.Gress.org

                  All that is necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing. -E. Burke

                  NASA SpecE30 #6, BMWCCA #161
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                  • nando
                    Moderator
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 34827

                    #24
                    I was pulling 5-7% vacuum at WOT with the stock intake - new filter too. With just an open throttle it was still 1-2% at WOT, but filters are easier to change than throttle bodies. :p\

                    it also matters if it's shielded. you will lose power for sure if it's open to the hot air from the radiator.
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