M20 Plumbing

[Dirtbleed]

the plumbing is ridiculous. Can I just go from the block to the heater core and from the heater core into the big "T" pipe? And elimnate that thermostat and prestone connector.
I want to eliminate the throttle body heater hose? What do i plug the block with?

[nando]

why would you want to eliminate the thermostat? do you want your heater to operate 100% of the time?

it's not that complicated. just put it together right.

[Hallen]

I just ran a hose from the thermostat to the return line for the throttle body heater. In other words, instead of a line going to from the thermostat to the throttle body and then from the output of the throttle body to the block, I just skipped the throttle body part and hooked those two lines together. It's easy that way and you don't have to try and block a thermostat hole or anything.

[Dirtbleed]

here's my thermostat, been clogged forever I guess.

[Dirtbleed]

look at all this bs removed.

[Dirtbleed]

I live in Fla. All I need is AC not heat. I don't understand the function of that thermostat? hot coolant is always running thru the heater core?

[Knockenwelle]

The aux thermostat is part of a recall BMW did to limit the maximum coolant temperature that can be present in the heater core. Apparently, there were a few people that got burned (!!!) by their heaters working too well in hot weather. It can be removed without complication. BMA still sells the original-style hoses without the provisions for the aux thermostat.

As for the TB heat;
The nipple under your thermostat housing can be easily plugged with a 2-3" piece of hose, a suitable plug, and a hose clamp. On the other end, there is a fitting in the block. Fortunately, the fitting is metric, and can be replaced with a regular M12 x 1.5 (not 100% on that size, maybe 90%) bolt and aluminum washer. The only reason for TB heat is to prevent icing and throttle blade sticking--which could indeed be very bad--when the weather is very cold and humid.

[Dirtbleed]

thnx for the reply's
I capped the plug at the block. capped the plug under the thermostat housing. (to eliminate the throttle body heater hose).
Is my setup above ok? I think so. I'd like to see the bmw hose for the thermostat delete. Any part#. I'd rather eliminate that 90degree connector and 2 hose clamps. and go from the block stait to the heater pipe.

[Dirtbleed]

ps: the charcol canister has been long gone and replaced with a coolant overflow catch can.

[Dirtbleed]

next to go is the hole suckin' oil vapors from my crankcase. gonna go with an external breather setup. I just want fresh, cold air in my intake. thank god there are still no emmision rules in florida. run what u brung over here in this circus we call south florida.

[nando]

yeah plug that up so your crankcase isn't under vacuum and you seals start to leak! :roll:

[Dirtbleed]

I bet I can change the starter now without taking out the manifold. alot cleaner setup.

[Dirtbleed]

yeah plug that up so your crankcase isn't under vacuum and you seals start to leak! :roll:

is that right? can I just add a crankcase filter? Or do I need a setup with a catch can and filter. I'd rather save the cash.

[nando]

what you really want is an air/oil seperator, then you can keep the vacuum hose and not suck in oil vapors.

the hose from the VC to the TB creates a vacuum pressure in the crankcase that helps the seals. if you vent to air, you lose that ability. M20s are leaky enough.

Sorry for being harsh. I don't like removing things without fully understanding what they are doing. Most of the time they are there for a reason.

[Dirtbleed]

most of the nonsense is emmision related. not a matter of function. so the crankcase needs a vacuum to keep it sealed? I'm not sure if I'm convinced of that. if that motor leaks, it's because of an old gasket/o-ring somewhere.