Wideband o2 sensor.

[LowR3V'in]

from what I've been reading it does not, and also does not
scale injectors, so still not for boost (RRFPR and 24# injectors.) :(

Can the chip use a wideband like it does the stock narrow?
Funny how there's not much feedback on this thing.

[nando]

no, you have to give it a narrowband signal.

[LowR3V'in]

Is this the map that came with it?
Also, what octane did they say it was for?

Did they say anything about it being dynoed
for best power, or is that knock limited?


Sorry for all the question!

[T Verdier]

no this is a google search pic.
they have 4 tunes for a MAF/14lb injectors
92 octane
92 octane (high idle)
87 octane
92 octane (valet mode)

they also have a group for 19lb injectors and stock afm setups.
sorry i dont know what knock limited is

[NigelStu]

Resurrecting this thread - looking for info/clarification, hoping nando can shed some light on this.

I have a LC-1, and possibly a dead O2 sensor on my car. Was thinking I'd just replace my dead O2 sensor with the wideband/LC-1 set-up since I can get the narrow band signal. Getting the narrow-band signal to the ECU is easy enough, but I have 2 questions.

I have a 87 ES witha 3 wire O2, ECU # 027:
Do I need to run the heater wires to the wideband? (Innovate site indicated that some vehicles may have issues if the heater circuit is not hooked up)

Is there a way (and any benefit) to getting a wideband signal to the stock ECU? I do not have a clear understanding of the total workings of the ol' Motronic 1.0....



I did all of my initial AFR tuning on my Spec Miata (on track) with this setup, using a second bung for the wideband - worked great and had very little adjustments to make once I did get to the dyno. I just havn't dont the single O2 sensor setup...


Thanks!

[george graves]

The LC-1 will take care of the wideband heater.

As far as a stock ecu goes: It's got 2 outputs. You can set one up to simulate a narrow band gauge and pipe that to the stock ecu.

[nando]

Resurrecting this thread - looking for info/clarification, hoping nando can shed some light on this.

I have a LC-1, and possibly a dead O2 sensor on my car. Was thinking I'd just replace my dead O2 sensor with the wideband/LC-1 set-up since I can get the narrow band signal. Getting the narrow-band signal to the ECU is easy enough, but I have 2 questions.

I have a 87 ES witha 3 wire O2, ECU # 027:
Do I need to run the heater wires to the wideband? (Innovate site indicated that some vehicles may have issues if the heater circuit is not hooked up)

Is there a way (and any benefit) to getting a wideband signal to the stock ECU? I do not have a clear understanding of the total workings of the ol' Motronic 1.0....



I did all of my initial AFR tuning on my Spec Miata (on track) with this setup, using a second bung for the wideband - worked great and had very little adjustments to make once I did get to the dyno. I just havn't dont the single O2 sensor setup...


Thanks!

no, you don't need the heater wires - BUT - you can use the heater wires to power the LC-1. it's just a relay and 12v, turned on by the ECU. easy stuff. people always make it harder than it needs to be, hacking wires and relays and switches etc. The relay is there, use it! :)

basically cut the connector off an old O2 sensor. hook the power, ground, and narrowband outputs to that. Plug it in. Done.

no, the ECU won't know what to do with a widebang signal. it only works with a narrowband - the wideband would have to go to a gauge or something.

one tip - set the error/warmup voltage so it reads stoich while the sensor warms up. I think that means .45v for the narrowband output and 2.35v for the wideband (if you use 0-5v, 10-20:1, the default setting is different).

[NigelStu]

Perfect - thanks Nando!


Great extra info on powering the LC-1. I had already planned on using an old connector to get the signal to the ECU, but pulling the power from the same circuit (instead of tapping into power point or something) makes it just that much easier!

Weekend project list started!