380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P hahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.
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Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.
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Yes, you should. 380 is a later Motronic 1.3 unit."I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe.
Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P
Many of the parts that are in the picture were included because when we set a price,I told thaem that I wanted every hose, component, and connector that touched the head and came up/forward. That way, I had a good estimate of what all I should have assembled (new) before I start the tear down. 90% of it coincides with he Seta hoses/lines/connectors, but I wanted everything from the "i" just in case.
Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Posthahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.
Do you say that because I am using used parts, because I got the parts for cheap, because I am cutting a corner somewhere...? I am about to order $150 in new parts frm Pelican, to include all of the belts/hoses etc. for a TB change, a new WP, etc.
This build is not happening this week, nor with just the components pictured. This is just a running comentary and summary thread (so that the next guy does not have to ask he same questions).
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Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post380 is fine. I would run 380 before I run 153. All the later models were on 380 I believe. I hope you arent reusing that rotor in the picture :P hahaha this looks like a super duper budget build.
there were also way more 1.3 ECUs out there, and even more outside the US market (for things like the 320i).
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Originally posted by phenryiv1 View PostNot being smart- really asking this:
Do you say that because I am using used parts, because I got the parts for cheap, because I am cutting a corner somewhere...? I am about to order $150 in new parts frm Pelican, to include all of the belts/hoses etc. for a TB change, a new WP, etc.
This build is not happening this week, nor with just the components pictured. This is just a running comentary and summary thread (so that the next guy does not have to ask he same questions).
I beg to differ on the hoses replacement, depending on the amount of mile and what condition they are in. I've seen 300k hoses that never had a issue. I dont know thats just me.
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Originally posted by SpecM View PostI would NOT re-use that cap, rotor, or any of the hoses
and the s-eta and the "i"s had the same radiator and alternator, why swap?
EVERYTHING in this thread- head, accessories, DME (actually, 2 of them [a 153 and a 380], now), hoses, radiator, a 'vert FSB, cluster, spare motronic harness, radiator, plug wires, cap, rotor, alternator, Throttle Body, MAF, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, a pair of 5.25" Eclipse coaxials, a glove box latch, and a leather e-brake handle/boot from a 5/7 series- were all $225 for the package.
We set a price, and I stood there in the JY and kept getting them to throw in other parts to sweeten the deal. Much of it I can't use or don't need, but I can either sell (to offset some costs) it or keep it as a spare.
As to the alternator, I was under the impresion that the eta cars (to include the Seta, I thought) used an 80A alternator, while the "i" cars had a 90A.
I could be mistaken.
As to the hoses, having them as spares won't hurt. Remember- the ones on my car are still fully functional as well, btu I don't see why I would not just swap them out for new, while I am doing the rest of the build.
If I am doing the "normal" timing belt service, I would do the hoses. I had that budgeted before I decided to do the head swap, so why would that change?
I still need a new head gasket, head bolts, and a VC gasket.
I have a fully functional cap on my car, and I now have a spare. Same for plug wires, injectors, fuel rail, etc.
All-in-all, I think that my $225 was well-spent.
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Originally posted by nando View Postthere is a lot of confusion over what models came with what ECU.. I don't know this answer, but I do know that not "all" late cars came with a 380, or a 173, etc. as lots of people will claim. Firstly, they're all exactly the same thing. There may have been small changes to the software, but I laid a 173 and 525 side by side, and I couldn't tell any difference (now compare the 153 and 173, it's apples/oranges inside). Component for component, all 1.3 ECUs are identical. You can run any one you wish.
there were also way more 1.3 ECUs out there, and even more outside the US market (for things like the 320i).
I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.
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Originally posted by Aptyp View Post525 came on automatics and didn't have fuel cut-off. That's the only difference between it and 153.
I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.
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Originally posted by Aptyp View Post525 came on automatics and didn't have fuel cut-off. That's the only difference between it and 153.
I've never seen 380, but maybe it's the same difference between 380 and 173??? My girlfriend's iSA has 173 though, so I'm not sure.
the 380 is also the same as a 173..
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380 is the successor to the 173, much like 173 is the successor to the 153. I've read reports that the 380 idles a little better than the 173 but that could easily be placebo.
What I do remember is:
there are more built-in diagnostics for the 380 so pinpointing problems is easier
IIRC you can use 173 chips in 380s, and they'll work just fine, but they won't have support for the extra diagnosticspaint sucks
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Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post380 is the successor to the 173, much like 173 is the successor to the 153. I've read reports that the 380 idles a little better than the 173 but that could easily be placebo.
What I do remember is:
there are more built-in diagnostics for the 380 so pinpointing problems is easier
IIRC you can use 173 chips in 380s, and they'll work just fine, but they won't have support for the extra diagnostics
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Originally posted by nando View Postthe diagnostics are the same. the extra diagnostics came with all 1.3 ecus.. including the 173. the 153 is a 1.1 ecu.
Edit: found it
Originally posted by Mark DThe 380 chip is just the 173 chip with some more diagnostics. You can actually run the 173 if you don't care about a few extra DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes)
But I'll make the chip very soon, for those who care about the codes.
Thanks
Markpaint sucks
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Glad that I picked up the 380...I can hang onto the 153 as a spare.
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