Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.

[phenryiv1]

May I suggest you purchase a couple of books? The Bentley Manual and Wayne Dempsey"s " 101 Performance Mods for your E30/E36". Look on www.pelicanparts.com for both. Pour over these books until you get it right in your head, then jump in. .

I actually have both. I have read "101" a couple of times, and have the bentley for technical support.

FWIW, I am finishing my SETA project today: everything installed just need to fill tranny and coolant. I started with "I" motor and replaced the block with the SETA.

Hopefully, I will be able to make a similar post soon.

[twothrees]

May I suggest you purchase a couple of books? The Bentley Manual and Wayne Dempsey"s " 101 Performance Mods for your E30/E36". Look on www.pelicanparts.com for both. Pour over these books until you get it right in your head, then jump in.

FWIW, I am finishing my SETA project today: everything installed just need to fill tranny and coolant. I started with "I" motor and replaced the block with the SETA.

[phenryiv1]

Just read this entire thread, and man are there a bunch of conflicting posts made by people with little or no knowledge of what you're actually trying to do.

SETA installs are the easiest to do, and the reason why we sourced a SETA sedan for our budget trackmobile. You already have 90% of what you need on the car, and only need to swap the parts listed by Flash in his initial post.

I think once you get it wrapped up you should make a new thread compiling all of your findings into one spot without the interference.

Yeah, the whole point of this was to be short and sweet and to avoid becoming the goliath that other eta motor build threads have become, and in one respect, this has gotten out of hand. In another respect, however, it has been successful- this one has managed to stay on the topic of being ONLY the Seta build.

Regarding your questions, I think you're overengineering this in your mind. The premise is simple: pull off everything from the head and up from the old car, then replace with everything from your donor stuff you bought. Install the ECU, fill fluids, drive.

I feel like that is totally the case.

Start by pulling all the SETA stuff. As you pull it, mark any wiring you disconnect and/or take pics as you go. Strip down to the head, then pull it. This means disconnecting the intake as an assembly, exhaust manifolds, coolant lines, and fuel lines.

Reassemble in reverse, starting with the head (timing belt/tensioner/waterpump), then valve cover, intake assembly from your donor, exhaust. Then do the coolant hoses, then fuel, then wiring. Or choose a different order, it doesn't matter. Tie up any loose ends, then go drive.

Good summary...thanks. I get wrapped around the axle on order of operations. It comes from my "real" job.

Good luck,

Tim

Thanks.

[VacMan]

Just read this entire thread, and man are there a bunch of conflicting posts made by people with little or no knowledge of what you're actually trying to do. I think once you get it wrapped up you should make a new thread compiling all of your findings into one spot without the interference.

Regarding your questions, I think you're overengineering this in your mind. The premise is simple: pull off everything from the head and up from the old car, then replace with everything from your donor stuff you bought. Install the ECU, fill fluids, drive.

Start by pulling all the SETA stuff. As you pull it, mark any wiring you disconnect and/or take pics as you go. Strip down to the head, then pull it. This means disconnecting the intake as an assembly, exhaust manifolds, coolant lines, and fuel lines.

Reassemble in reverse, starting with the head (timing belt/tensioner/waterpump), then valve cover, intake assembly from your donor, exhaust. Then do the coolant hoses, then fuel, then wiring. Or choose a different order, it doesn't matter. Tie up any loose ends, then go drive.

SETA installs are the easiest to do, and the reason why we sourced a SETA sedan for our budget trackmobile. You already have 90% of what you need on the car, and only need to swap the parts listed by Flash in his initial post.

Good luck,

Tim

[phenryiv1]

Bumping in hopes of responses to post above...I am getting down to decision time on doing this.

[phenryiv1]

So I have a couple of questions to pose to the masses, as I get closer to actually doing this...

1. Since I have the Motronic harness in place, and since the block won't be leaving the vehicle, what are the minimum harness junctions that need to be disconnected to get the swap done?

I don't want to just go disconnecting things at random.

2. Asuming I am not plannign to start the car after beginning this, should I start by pulling the seta intake parts and replacing them from the front to the back, and END with the head and IM, or should I start with the head and the IM and work my way forward?

3. In what order should things (such as injectors be installed in the fuel rail, IM to head, head to block, etc.)? Not like "start with the front injector and work back..." but more like the order of the major components.

I mean, should all of the injectors be installed in the rail, then the rail inserted in the IM, then the whole thing be bolted to the head, then installed, or should I install the head, then the IM, then the injectors, then the rail...?

I just don't know my order of operations for that process.

[phenryiv1]

No, the intake.

In that case, I probably have it, since I have the complete intake assembly.

Thanks.

[TrentW]

No, the intake.

[phenryiv1]

Here ya go--

Thanks. What is it bolted to? Is it on the head?

[TrentW]

Here ya go--

[phenryiv1]

Does anyone have a picture of the TPS?

[phenryiv1]

Finally getting ready to start swapping in parts.

I may leave my current head in place and swap in the valve springs and cams from another "i" car and use the 885 in the pics above to be rebuilt for a more permanant install later.

[phenryiv1]

127 HP and I think 168 ft/lb.

[TrentW]

Anyone know what the hp & torque specs are for a stock super eta?

[phenryiv1]

Head goes to the shop Tuesday to be checked over. As I reassemble and reinstall it, I will update this thread.