After changing the timing belt and spending frustrating hours trying to fully bleed the cooling system by having the front on ramps, getting up to temp, using the bleed screw, etc... I would like to offer the following procedure I followed.
I am sure this has been done before but I haven't seen this exact method it after searching. I have read where people "blow" on the reservoir opening but that seemed a bit crude and inefficient.
Basically, it is "back-bleeding" the cooling system, I had to do this on Triumph car clutch, the only way to force the brake fluid past a high section of tubing.
Car - 1988 325is
The only new tool I needed was a cheap $6.00 plastic "oil pump" that can screw onto the top of a gallon jug. Found it at the local auto parts store.
Important - I drilled a small 5/64" hole in the top section the outer portion of the new thermostat. Right through the embossed arrow pointing upwards. This allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the thermostat when cold.
I worked with a cold car, parked flat(no ramps) that is not running and a coolant reservoir that is nearly empty. The night before I had tried to bleed the car by the "ramp" method, it worked ok but the temp did rise when idling. I ran out of time to keep working on it. Overall the system was probably 2/3 full but I think this procedure would work as well on a completely drained system.
Remove the coolant reservoir cap and put the heat control on full.
Install the pump in the top of the coolant jug and attach the pump's tubing to the small nipple on the very top left(driver) side of the radiator, directly above the large coolant hose. This nipple normally feeds into the coolant reservoir, you need to remove the small hose clamp and hose.
Loosen the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.
Pump the coolant into the radiator until the it flows out of the bleed screw on the housing.
Close the bleed screw.
Keep pumping the coolant until the coolant reservoir starts to fill up. I actually heard gurgling sounds as air bubbles worked out.
Keep pumping until the reservoir is full.
Remove the pump's tubing from the radiator nipple. Have the original hose ready to slip on because it will spurt coolant out of the radiator.
I put the reservoir cap back on and went for a drive with perfect results. It ran cool and consistent.
I have found this method to be extremely fast, clean, and safe compared to what I had tried before.
Let me know if you have any questions or feedback!!!
I am sure this has been done before but I haven't seen this exact method it after searching. I have read where people "blow" on the reservoir opening but that seemed a bit crude and inefficient.
Basically, it is "back-bleeding" the cooling system, I had to do this on Triumph car clutch, the only way to force the brake fluid past a high section of tubing.
Car - 1988 325is
The only new tool I needed was a cheap $6.00 plastic "oil pump" that can screw onto the top of a gallon jug. Found it at the local auto parts store.
Important - I drilled a small 5/64" hole in the top section the outer portion of the new thermostat. Right through the embossed arrow pointing upwards. This allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the thermostat when cold.
I worked with a cold car, parked flat(no ramps) that is not running and a coolant reservoir that is nearly empty. The night before I had tried to bleed the car by the "ramp" method, it worked ok but the temp did rise when idling. I ran out of time to keep working on it. Overall the system was probably 2/3 full but I think this procedure would work as well on a completely drained system.
Remove the coolant reservoir cap and put the heat control on full.
Install the pump in the top of the coolant jug and attach the pump's tubing to the small nipple on the very top left(driver) side of the radiator, directly above the large coolant hose. This nipple normally feeds into the coolant reservoir, you need to remove the small hose clamp and hose.
Loosen the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.
Pump the coolant into the radiator until the it flows out of the bleed screw on the housing.
Close the bleed screw.
Keep pumping the coolant until the coolant reservoir starts to fill up. I actually heard gurgling sounds as air bubbles worked out.
Keep pumping until the reservoir is full.
Remove the pump's tubing from the radiator nipple. Have the original hose ready to slip on because it will spurt coolant out of the radiator.
I put the reservoir cap back on and went for a drive with perfect results. It ran cool and consistent.
I have found this method to be extremely fast, clean, and safe compared to what I had tried before.
Let me know if you have any questions or feedback!!!
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