Each 2.7i build i read is different....

[Cyrix2k]

if you're boosting a 327i, you will run out of fuel very quickly on factory injectors... I'm running eta injectors right now and maxed the injectors on only 6 psi with the eta head still bolted on. The eta injectors are 18.5# vs the 325i's 14# injectors too (don't use the eta injectors with motronic 1.3 though, they are low impedance). There are a few things you absolutely do NOT want to do:
-run lean
-run out of fuel (which is automatic lean)
-have too much timing
-have the turbo dead itself
-overboost

All of those equal instant or quick motor death. Before you do anything, you will want a wideband o2 sensor to keep an eye on the motor. Since you're trying to boost the 327i, you will NEED injectors and there is no way around that.

[LiquidSkillz]

Thanks cyrix. That's the kind of answer I'll be looking for. And I know the eBay lots are, what they are. I was just using it as an example. But all that leaves out is ems, exhaust, which I dunno how I missed. I was gonna use the old fuel injectors for Now. Since I'll just be doing the 2.7i. I trust the guy when he says something is in good condition. I bought my first e30 from him, and he works on em all day long, has a junk yard full of stuff. And the other smaller electronics. I'm sure I can find on here.


I can spend more than 1500.... But I mean, single guy on Hawaii.... Money can disappear.

[eugeman]

kaboooommmmmm

^^^ LOL.
I would really do your research before you spend a penny, because it sounds like you know only a portion of what you are getting into. As soon as one says engine swap, boost or stroker the dollar signs go up exponentially (if you want to do it properly). Take it from the guys that have modified their motors & take your budget and double or triple it if you don't want to be caught high and dry - that's one of the reasons so many people selling incomplete stroker, swap or boost kits.

Another thing is swapping some of the 20+ year old parts are either going to break in the process or be defective. Things like rad hoses, new bolts, seals, vacuum lines, electrical sensors/harness/plugs, etc.. will nickel & dime you to death.

Many guys hack something together to make it work which is fine, but you are rolling the dice when it comes to power output and reliability.



Good luck!

[briansjacobs]

that's why i put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If i do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "i" head. That's $450 for belts and others?

kaboooommmmmm

[Cyrix2k]

yes, i have an 86E. And i'm going for a "cheap" turbo build after i put the "i" stuff on.

i've heard about teh megasquirt, but haven't even looked it up to see what it is really. But if it'd be easier/smarter to do then swapping all the wiring, that'd be great. And the manifold wont really matter i guess

this one was more expensive, but i've been told i can just source all the stuff myself and build it cheaper

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...mZ160481197428

You'll need some kind of fuel management when you go turbo. That means either a RRFPR which are kind of expensive and allow for only rudimentary tuning or some kind of EMS. Megasquirt can do full standalone (spark & fuel) and it's also pretty much the cheapest EMS available. Honestly, if you don't know what MS is, I suggest you stop buying ANYTHING right now and do more research. Either that or don't go turbo for a very, very long time.

That's why I put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If I do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "I" head. That's $450 for belts and others?

Ok, so here's the deal. It's possible to do a turbo build for 1500 but you are not on a good track. Ebay kits are pretty much never a good buy... let's look at your example kit

You get
-a crap turbo that I would *never* bolt on
-a crap manifold that will probably crack
-a cheap intercooler
-some cheap BOV
-charge pipe kit that runs $80 on ebay normally
-oil feed and drain lines that run something like $80 normally

so there's a grand total of $250 of usable parts in that kit if you're generous. Now lets see what you still need but don't have:
-an EMS or some other way to control fuel ($100 and up)
-new fuel injectors ($50 would be a best case scenario, but $150 is a more likely number)
-a turbo that won't self destruct
-gauges
-wideband o2 sensor, controller, and gauge
-exhaust
-etc... add a lot for misc parts you never thought you'd need

Anyway, you would be much better piecing together a better quality system than buying an ebay kit that will just kill the car.

[LiquidSkillz]

That's why I put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If I do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "I" head. That's $450 for belts and others?

[Kershaw]

there is no such thing as a cheap turbo build.

[LiquidSkillz]

yes, i have an 86E. And i'm going for a "cheap" turbo build after i put the "i" stuff on.

i've heard about teh megasquirt, but haven't even looked it up to see what it is really. But if it'd be easier/smarter to do then swapping all the wiring, that'd be great. And the manifold wont really matter i guess

this one was more expensive, but i've been told i can just source all the stuff myself and build it cheaper

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...mZ160481197428

[Cyrix2k]

is the build based on the eta? If you're going turbo, save yourself some trouble and go with aftermarket engine management now (megasquirt is a good option and cheap). If you do it now, you won't have to worry with swapping to a new engine wiring harness. Also, I think the eta and i exhaust manifolds are different (i has larger exhaust ports iirc).

[LiquidSkillz]

Yeah. I think I'm doin more than my knowledge knows. But I'll wait till I have two days off. Sucks. Economy is slow, nobodys buying cars an my cashflow isn't what I want.

[hotballs]

Needed parts would be 1st post, 2nd post and the "trigger" wheel/crank pulley from the i and the crank position sensor with bracket that reads off that wheel.

Other than that I think you've covered everything with the 1st and 2nd posts.

And the thermostat housing just saves time as you are going to 2 sensors instead of 4. So I would say that isn't optional. And you need the i plug wires with that extra wire that "pulses" the other plug wire and plugs into the cap.

That's essentially it. You'll have to figure out how to wire up the starter if it's different from the harness and oil pressure sensor.

[LiquidSkillz]

Lol. Well that doesn't help. I was trying to be specific. The original post was to verify NEEDED parts

[nando]

okay, in that case you want everything except the block. and I mean EVERYTHING. :)

[LiquidSkillz]

I'm getting "I" parts from the guy. I have an 87 "e"

[r0meyrome]

I had a stock chip for a lil bit then I ran a dinan 2.5 for 173 ecu now running Alpina (Copy?) 2.7 chip.