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Each 2.7i build i read is different....

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    #16
    there is no such thing as a cheap turbo build.
    AWD > RWD

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      #17
      That's why I put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If I do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "I" head. That's $450 for belts and others?

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        #18
        Originally posted by LiquidSkillz View Post
        yes, i have an 86E. And i'm going for a "cheap" turbo build after i put the "i" stuff on.

        i've heard about teh megasquirt, but haven't even looked it up to see what it is really. But if it'd be easier/smarter to do then swapping all the wiring, that'd be great. And the manifold wont really matter i guess

        this one was more expensive, but i've been told i can just source all the stuff myself and build it cheaper

        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQ...mZ160481197428
        You'll need some kind of fuel management when you go turbo. That means either a RRFPR which are kind of expensive and allow for only rudimentary tuning or some kind of EMS. Megasquirt can do full standalone (spark & fuel) and it's also pretty much the cheapest EMS available. Honestly, if you don't know what MS is, I suggest you stop buying ANYTHING right now and do more research. Either that or don't go turbo for a very, very long time.
        Originally posted by LiquidSkillz View Post
        That's why I put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If I do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "I" head. That's $450 for belts and others?
        Ok, so here's the deal. It's possible to do a turbo build for 1500 but you are not on a good track. Ebay kits are pretty much never a good buy... let's look at your example kit

        You get
        -a crap turbo that I would *never* bolt on
        -a crap manifold that will probably crack
        -a cheap intercooler
        -some cheap BOV
        -charge pipe kit that runs $80 on ebay normally
        -oil feed and drain lines that run something like $80 normally

        so there's a grand total of $250 of usable parts in that kit if you're generous. Now lets see what you still need but don't have:
        -an EMS or some other way to control fuel ($100 and up)
        -new fuel injectors ($50 would be a best case scenario, but $150 is a more likely number)
        -a turbo that won't self destruct
        -gauges
        -wideband o2 sensor, controller, and gauge
        -exhaust
        -etc... add a lot for misc parts you never thought you'd need

        Anyway, you would be much better piecing together a better quality system than buying an ebay kit that will just kill the car.
        1997 540i/6 - stock
        1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
        1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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          #19
          Originally posted by liquidskillz View Post
          that's why i put it into quotes. I'm setting aside $1500. If i do go with a $900 dollar turbo kit, $150 for "i" head. That's $450 for belts and others?
          kaboooommmmmm
          Brian Jacobs

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            #20
            Originally posted by briansjacobs View Post
            kaboooommmmmm
            ^^^ LOL.
            I would really do your research before you spend a penny, because it sounds like you know only a portion of what you are getting into. As soon as one says engine swap, boost or stroker the dollar signs go up exponentially (if you want to do it properly). Take it from the guys that have modified their motors & take your budget and double or triple it if you don't want to be caught high and dry - that's one of the reasons so many people selling incomplete stroker, swap or boost kits.

            Another thing is swapping some of the 20+ year old parts are either going to break in the process or be defective. Things like rad hoses, new bolts, seals, vacuum lines, electrical sensors/harness/plugs, etc.. will nickel & dime you to death.

            Many guys hack something together to make it work which is fine, but you are rolling the dice when it comes to power output and reliability.



            Good luck!
            Last edited by eugeman; 09-19-2010, 11:05 AM.

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              #21
              Thanks cyrix. That's the kind of answer I'll be looking for. And I know the eBay lots are, what they are. I was just using it as an example. But all that leaves out is ems, exhaust, which I dunno how I missed. I was gonna use the old fuel injectors for Now. Since I'll just be doing the 2.7i. I trust the guy when he says something is in good condition. I bought my first e30 from him, and he works on em all day long, has a junk yard full of stuff. And the other smaller electronics. I'm sure I can find on here.


              I can spend more than 1500.... But I mean, single guy on Hawaii.... Money can disappear.

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                #22
                if you're boosting a 327i, you will run out of fuel very quickly on factory injectors... I'm running eta injectors right now and maxed the injectors on only 6 psi with the eta head still bolted on. The eta injectors are 18.5# vs the 325i's 14# injectors too (don't use the eta injectors with motronic 1.3 though, they are low impedance). There are a few things you absolutely do NOT want to do:
                -run lean
                -run out of fuel (which is automatic lean)
                -have too much timing
                -have the turbo dead itself
                -overboost

                All of those equal instant or quick motor death. Before you do anything, you will want a wideband o2 sensor to keep an eye on the motor. Since you're trying to boost the 327i, you will NEED injectors and there is no way around that.
                1997 540i/6 - stock
                1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
                1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs

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