Quick Valve Adjustment question

[lolcantturn]

The 6 year old Pelican article photo doesn't provide me enough info, how do I know when a cylinder is at TDC? Should the exhaust side cam lobe be pointing straight down? I'm using the old "put it in 5th gear and push it" method.
Also, there should be a little play in the rocker arm up and down right? Because I'm adjusting the gap where the up and down play is at its max.

[otto325e]

You should be able to get away with doing both valves in one rotation. When the "V" space between the intake and exhaust cam lobes pointing directly down you should be able to adjust both for each cylinder.

The clearences are .25mm COLD. Make sure the car is atleast under 20 degress C.'

Also, another tip if you want the exact clearence I recommend removing or even cutting a small piece of the .25mm feeler off the feeler gauge set, so you can set it independently between the top of the valve and the rocker, then adjust the eccentric so there's no play with the gauge set between but not too tight, tighten adjuster screw, then remove the feeler gauge.

The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Do #1 first the #5 will be the next closest cylinder to tdc.

Also, it's easier to jack up one of the rear sides and turn the wheel in 5th gear instead of pushing(open differential only though)

[accident]

i just bump the starter lol

[ForcedFirebird]

i just bump the starter lol

I use a long handle 22mm wrench on the big crank bolt, just have to keep slight pressure when the cyl is on a firing stroke to let the pressure bleed down a bit.

[lolcantturn]

You should be able to get away with doing both valves in one rotation. When the "V" space between the intake and exhaust cam lobes pointing directly down you should be able to adjust both for each cylinder.

The clearences are .25mm COLD. Make sure the car is atleast under 20 degress C.'

Also, another tip if you want the exact clearence I recommend removing or even cutting a small piece of the .25mm feeler off the feeler gauge set, so you can set it independently between the top of the valve and the rocker, then adjust the eccentric so there's no play with the gauge set between but not too tight, tighten adjuster screw, then remove the feeler gauge.

The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Do #1 first the #5 will be the next closest cylinder to tdc.

Also, it's easier to jack up one of the rear sides and turn the wheel in 5th gear instead of pushing(open differential only though)

By V space, you mean the thing I highlighted here in red? That moves along with the rocker arms?

And yep, I did all that. I'm following it in accordance to the Bentley and Pelican article, and i'm worried that I'm not at TDC. My car has an LSD though.

i just bump the starter lol

You did that button thing?

[accident]

i was going to do the button, but i got lazy so i just pull the coil wire off and turn the key for like 1/4 second lol

[ForcedFirebird]

v space is the space between the two things you circled (cam lobes). When both are off the high part you can adjust both the valves on the same cyl.

[lolcantturn]

i was going to do the button, but i got lazy so i just pull the coil wire off and turn the key for like 1/4 second lol

word haha, I think that's the route i'm going to go for next. I hate pushing a car in 5th gear..up a hill..by myself..in the slippery asphalt because of the amount of oil and coolant i've spilled over and over and over again..

v space is the space between the two things you circled (cam lobes). When both are off the high part you can adjust both the valves on the same cyl.

Oh, thanks! I'll go look for that V-space now.

[otto325e]

The cam will rotate backwards.

1. Combustion and downstroke(both valves closed with both lobes pointed toward the ground)

2. Exhaust pushout upstroke(exhaust lobe comes around first)

3. air/fuel intake downstroke(exhaust valve closes and intake opens immediatly after)

4. compression then back to 1

Four stoke motor = 2 top dead centres but one for combustion and the other for breathing

[lolcantturn]

The cam will rotate backwards.

1. Combustion and downstroke(both valves closed with both lobes pointed toward the ground)

2. Exhaust pushout upstroke(exhaust lobe comes around first)

3. air/fuel intake downstroke(exhaust valve closes and intake opens immediatly after)

4. compression then back to 1

Four stoke motor = 2 top dead centres but one for combustion and the other for breathing

Okay cool, thanks man! I was adjusting my valves when both lobes were pointing downwards.

[NigelStu]

I like to take a crayon or tire marker and write 1 2 3 4 5 6 on the windshield, and then X each one out when I adjust those valves. Makes it easy to keep track of which ones are done since the firing order isn't 1 -> 6. That way I can start at the one closest to TDC and turn the crank with a wrench just enough to do the next set of lobes that are pointing down without loosing track of the ones that are done. You can do the adjustment within 1 full revolution of the camshaft easily this way.

Its easier to turn the engine over with the spark plugs removed. Biggest issue I had was with hand clearance to move the wrench, not effort.

And the particular cylinder you are adjusting does not need to be at exactly TDC, just make sure both lobes (the V-space, or the part you have circled) for that cylinder are pointing down. A good portion of the back side of the lobe on the cam is the same diameter, so as long as you are close it'll have the same gap.

[ForcedFirebird]

Good idea with a crayon, I have a dry-erase board in the shop, markers would also work.

As far as turning the crank with a wrench, I have one that's about 18" long so my hand is just above the radiator hose and use the open end to move it to the next wrench flat easily.

[whodwho]

Make it easy on yourself and use the starter circuit in the diagnostic connector and bump the starter to turn it over.

[lolcantturn]

I like to take a crayon or tire marker and write 1 2 3 4 5 6 on the windshield, and then X each one out when I adjust those valves. Makes it easy to keep track of which ones are done since the firing order isn't 1 -> 6. That way I can start at the one closest to TDC and turn the crank with a wrench just enough to do the next set of lobes that are pointing down without loosing track of the ones that are done. You can do the adjustment within 1 full revolution of the camshaft easily this way.

Its easier to turn the engine over with the spark plugs removed. Biggest issue I had was with hand clearance to move the wrench, not effort.

And the particular cylinder you are adjusting does not need to be at exactly TDC, just make sure both lobes (the V-space, or the part you have circled) for that cylinder are pointing down. A good portion of the back side of the lobe on the cam is the same diameter, so as long as you are close it'll have the same gap.

Good idea with the crayon!
And thanks, I was getting real worried that I wasn't adjusting it right at TDC.

Make it easy on yourself and use the starter circuit in the diagnostic connector and bump the starter to turn it over.

I'll try the "turning the key for a quarter of a second" method..and if that fails then i'll resort to that. I'll definitely do it the next time i'm adjusting my valves though.

[txtorquemade]

On a related note, semi thread jack. Is 110.00 a good price for a valve adjust and gasket?