M20 2.8L Stroker Build List, missing anything???

[Overlord475]

Hey guys,

Here is my 2.8L Stoker build list. Let me know if I'm missing something or if it can be found at a better price!



Head Rebuild List

Upper Gasket Set: $75 (VicR PP)

Head Bolts: $30 (Metric Blue mcmaster.com
PN: 91303A306)

Intake Mani to CH Studs (8x45mm): $9 (PP)

Camshaft: $190 (IE 272 Regrind)

Rocker Arms: $260 (IE)

Rocker Eccentrics & Nuts: $54 (BaV)

Intake Valves: $144 (SS +1 IE)

Exhaust Valves: $144 (SS +1 IE)

Valve Steam Seal Kit: $10 (PP)

Valve Springs: $144 (BvA)

Valve Guides: $120 (VAC)

Throttle Body Gasket: $5 (PP)

Timing Belt Kit: $34 (PP)

Water Pump: $50 (BvA)

Thermostat: $25

Aux/Interm Shaft Oil Seal: $8 (BvA)

Machine Work: $200

Misc hoses, sp, etc: $225


Est. Total: ~ $1750.00




Block Rebuild List

Lower Gasket Set: $36 (VicR PP)

Freeze Plugs: $18

MaxSil Pistons: $500 (BvA)

Connecting Rods: $40 (130mm ETA r3v)

Main Rod Bolts: $84 (BvA)

Crank Main Bolt: ????

Crank Rod Bearings: $150 (VAC)

Crank: $180 (M52 r3v)

Crank Spacer/Adaptor: $60 (IE)

Intermediate Shaft Bearings: $40

** 11 11 1 264 196
** 11 11 1 280 863

Oil Pump: $160 (PP or IE)

Headers: $200 (r3v GB)

IE Oil Pan Gasket Windag: $48

Exhaust Mani Stud/nut Kit: $20 (VAC)

Machine Work: $200

Misc hoses, sp, etc: $225


Est. Total: ~ $2000.00


Est. Grand Total: ~ $3750.00



Key:

Red - Haven't found/priced yet
Blue - Already bought
Black - Need to buy
PP – Pelican Parts
IE – Ireland Engineering
BaV – BavAuto
VAC – VAC Motor Sports




Thanks guys!

[JiXer]

Don't forget engine management :)
Exhaust?
Head and manifold porting?
I have a cool trick for using an S52 throttle body.
And don't forget to post dyno results.
I am thinking about doing this exact build but with i pistons if I can't spring for the Wiseco's I want.

[briansjacobs]

I did not have good results with the IE 272 and rockers.

[JiXer]

I've never had a good experience with anything from those guys. Can you be more specific though. Its good info for others to have.

[matias88e30]

Sounds good.. any ecu chip? e/m?, bigger injectors, fuel pump, fpr.

[Overlord475]

Don't forget engine management :)
Exhaust?
Head and manifold porting?
I have a cool trick for using an S52 throttle body.
And don't forget to post dyno results.
I am thinking about doing this exact build but with i pistons if I can't spring for the Wiseco's I want.

I was thinking of the Miller WAR chip and MAF for management. It's plug and play, and can run up to 4 tunes on the one chip.

Do you have a DIY link for the S52 TB set up? Interested to see that!

The MaxSil pistons I am looking at are b25 replicas but with a 84.5mm bore and are much lighter / stronger. I stayed away from custom pistons because they are basically double the price. Though I would love to have used an S52 crank with 86mm custom pistons... 3.1L mmmmmmmm :twisted:

I did not have good results with the IE 272 and rockers.

I'd like to hear about this too! The reason I am going with the IE rockers is because of the GB going on right now for $240 which is the same as stock rockers @ $20 each. Figured if I was going to buy rockers anyway I might as well pick up these at the same price as I would for stock.

Have you found a better cam option at a similar $190 price?

[briansjacobs]

well you get what you pay for and the lower cost of going with IE cost me a shit ton of money. The problem was basically that pads on the rockers where not the same as the factory pads, I was not able to determine the difference in hardness compared to stock but the rockers would last on average 3 hours of run time before being totally worn out. I would then need to drain all oil (13Q in my car at $10 per Q) remover all rockers send back to IE repeat again till they refunded and I went with VAC billet + schrick cam.

My advice is if you can not afford to do it right, dont do it at all! I have tried the cheap route and it was more expensive than doing it right.

If you care to find my build thread there are pics of the destroyed rockers.

[briansjacobs]

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=180756

build thread

[Overlord475]

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=180756

build thread

Was looking to use their Heavy Duty rockers not their Billets. Not sure if they have this pad issue also though?

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=ireland&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=386318385&Count2=303458809

Looks like they've stop selling the Billet version all together.

[briansjacobs]

Looks like they've stop selling the Billet version all together.

glad I could do their R&D for them but really im not bitter

[briansjacobs]

in hindsight you dont really need the billet rockers as you will never rev past 6500 with this motor. In all reality there is no reason to go past 6000 RPM with the build you are doing. You will have a real nice power band from 3K-6K

[Larsinnj]

Don't forget engine management :)
Exhaust?
Head and manifold porting?
I have a cool trick for using an S52 throttle body.
And don't forget to post dyno results.
I am thinking about doing this exact build but with i pistons if I can't spring for the Wiseco's I want.

And what is that if I may ask? And will it work on throttle bodies from a euro s50b30?

[619E30]

What do you plan on doing for fuel supply? Injectors? Fuel pump?

[nando]

well you get what you pay for and the lower cost of going with IE cost me a shit ton of money. The problem was basically that pads on the rockers where not the same as the factory pads, I was not able to determine the difference in hardness compared to stock but the rockers would last on average 3 hours of run time before being totally worn out. I would then need to drain all oil (13Q in my car at $10 per Q) remover all rockers send back to IE repeat again till they refunded and I went with VAC billet + schrick cam.

My advice is if you can not afford to do it right, dont do it at all! I have tried the cheap route and it was more expensive than doing it right.

If you care to find my build thread there are pics of the destroyed rockers.

that honestly sounds like it could be a ZDDP problem? there are others who have had success with them. the castings, at least, are far superior to stock.

also, I'd much prefer OEM bolts to metric blues, which are technically just bolts that happen to fit into an M20. IMO the factory TTY bolts are superior in every way, the only thing better would be ARP or Raceware studs.

I would also not suggest spending money on a regrind, as the cam is one of the most important parts of building an M20 head. Better to save money on some of the other uneccesary upgrades and get a good cam. The stock eccentrics do not work with regrinds, so you will have to buy expensive oversized eccentrics, and I don't even know who sells them these days (turner? korman?).

[Overlord475]

.....I would also not suggest spending money on a regrind, as the cam is one of the most important parts of building an M20 head. Better to save money on some of the other uneccesary upgrades and get a good cam. The stock eccentrics do not work with regrinds, so you will have to buy expensive oversized eccentrics, and I don't even know who sells them these days (turner? korman?).

Can you give me an idea of what items I her listed are uneccesary upgrades? If stock works just as well of better then that works for me!