go get a bike. save gas, save the earth and a good work out.
Engine knocking! Commuter car so I need info ASAP!
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Look on Craigslist.
There's bound to be the obligatory cheap ass Volvo or something.
Put this aside, and approach it thoughtfully, and thoroughly. ;)
1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
1983 Peugeot 505 STI
1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WDComment
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You can swap an ETA motor in there with fresh timing belt and upper seal for under $150 if you do it on the cheap, and in less that 2 days. Pick your priorities carefully, right? School is most important, but if you can't get there school is gonna suffer...so reliable transpo is #1, just after your health.
Yank that motor, drop a fresh one (or a "less beat" one) in and then start prepping a fresh motor of your choice.
BTW: if you have big hands like me, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off. Fuck what everyone else says: I can pull both manifolds off and get the starter bolts out, PLUS have easy access to a great lifting point quicker than most guys can get the starter out. It is way worth the effort to pull that manifold IF you have big hands.Comment
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BTW: if you have big hands like me, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off. Fuck what everyone else says: I can pull both manifolds off and get the starter bolts out, PLUS have easy access to a great lifting point quicker than most guys can get the starter out. It is way worth the effort to pull that manifold IF you have big hands.sigpicComment
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Yank that motor, drop a fresh one (or a "less beat" one) in and then start prepping a fresh motor of your choice.
BTW: if you have big hands like me, pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off. Fuck what everyone else says: I can pull both manifolds off and get the starter bolts out, PLUS have easy access to a great lifting point quicker than most guys can get the starter out. It is way worth the effort to pull that manifold IF you have big hands.
The rear lift point becomes easy with a j-hook. I made mine from a piece or 3/8" rod. Basically it just a piece of rod with an eye formed on one end and a shallow u-shape on the other. Mine is about 11" long. So I can hold the eyelet end and place the hook in the lift point.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Just throw thicker oil in there till the knocking stops. Diesel oil works sometimes. It'll quiet it down. Then drive it 'till it dies, saving up for a new motor or 24v swap. Just don't dog it and you'll be okay. :up:1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5Comment
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You pretty much have to have a hoist to pull an engine (or a lift). If you also get an engine load leveler you can remove/install the engine & transmission as a unit in far less than it takes just to separate/re-connect the transmission.
The rear lift point becomes easy with a j-hook. I made mine from a piece or 3/8" rod. Basically it just a piece of rod with an eye formed on one end and a shallow u-shape on the other. Mine is about 11" long. So I can hold the eyelet end and place the hook in the lift point.Comment
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Alright today I drove it the 10 miles from my shop to home with the god awful knock and other noises, but no matter, that engine is toast and I'm gonna grab the new motor and replace the water pump and tbelt. Since it is an 87 what's different? The only difference in that year M20B25 is I need to get the water pump for my year, a 90. Somebody confirm this for me.
I'm also probably grabbing a 5spd swap from Mossman since he thinks he has all the parts. Finally, after 6 years, the car will be appreciated as a manual.
SC*AR (Schwarz Army)
No longer stock ride height, rolling as low as a daily driver in New England should without worrying about breaking an oil pan. :up:Comment
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Water pump and wiring harness. I'd swap all accessories, sensors and harness from your motor over, since you know they all work. Good time to freshen it all up like jlevie said.Comment
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