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The Loud M20 Valve Train

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    #16
    I use Rotella 30W, much quieter.

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

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      #17
      use whatever has at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #18
        Originally posted by jlevie View Post
        Valve noise is hardly ever load sensitive. But a bad bearing is load sensitive. Have a pro check out the car see what he/she thinks the source of the noise is.
        I'm on board with what you're talking about here. I was looking at other threads and saw someone who was experiencing similar issues as me. That person's issue was a spun rod bearing. I'll be under the car with a stethoscope to figure out where the source is this weekend. Depending on my findings it sounds like I may be rebuilding the ol' M20. Fortunately, I haven't sold my Mazdaspeed6 yet.
        Chris


        '83 320i - Crashed :(
        '71 Nova - (9.71 @ 172mph) - Sold
        '83 320i - Taking Offers
        '01 325i - Sold
        '07 Mazdaspeed6 - Sold
        '89 325iX - Rust Free, 2 Door, 5 Speed
        '06 M5 - Interlagos Blue SMG

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          #19
          Too tight and you'll burn the valves. It's better to err on the side of loose. It should sound like those old linen mills children worked in in the 1890's.....smooth and industrious.
          1974.5 Jensen Healey : 2003 330i/5

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            #20
            Originally posted by nando View Post
            use whatever has at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
            +1. I add a bottle of camshaft break-in additive at every oil change because zinc-rich oil is so hard to find. Critical because modern oils are made for roller cams and do not protect the surfaces of flat-tappet cams/followers.
            "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

            -Dr. Paul Forrester



            Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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              #21
              Originally posted by funcrew View Post
              +1. I add a bottle of camshaft break-in additive at every oil change because zinc-rich oil is so hard to find.
              I don't think it is hard to find oil with appropriate ZDDP levels. Many auto parts houses carry Valvoline VR1 and many race shops carry Brad Penn. You want the dyno version of VR1.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                #22
                Originally posted by nando View Post
                ...it shouldn't really be loud...I think most people just have worn engines.
                ^^This.

                Geez, guys. Has anyone actually properly rebuilt a head? No, they aren't always loud. Even at RPM. Lash is just the first step. Beat guides, valve tips, rocker pads, rocker bushings, flattened eccentrics, cam condition... Sure, it CAN all make noise. And remember 20W50 is the food of choice, not a band-aid. Look in your owner's manual.
                sigpic

                Mike

                '91 325i track car. Mostly...

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                  #23
                  use whatever has at least 1200ppm of ZDDP
                  Not sure but if this contains ZINC, I was told that The ZINC damages the cat prematurly
                  one of the advantages of Synthetic is that they don't contain Zinc.
                  Henry
                  1991 325ica, Mobil one 10W30 since 2003 no leak no problem,over 206kmiles
                  1996 ///M3 64kmiles Mobil one 10w30 since 1999 no problems.
                  I always used Mobil1 10 w30 in the M3 with no problems, I tryed Castrol synthec (I think it was 10w40) the engine was burning oil like crazy almost one quart every 1000 miles, switched back to Mobil one absolutly no oil burning
                  any ideas?
                  Last edited by MTechnikII; 02-19-2011, 09:25 AM.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Airplanecar8 View Post
                    I dont think thats true.

                    with the right valve train our engines could sound pretty quiet. beehives anyone?
                    Dragging up an old thread, I have just finished a 2.8 stroker and am very happy with the performance, however I have adjusted tappets 3 times and it is still noisy (is quiet for a minute then it gets loud again).

                    I brought this post up as I am running MM bee hive valve springs and I am wondering if they have something to do with it?

                    Why did this poster say "beehives anyone?"

                    Link to my build thread:
                    Pulling my hair out with all these friggin BMW's:
                    2000 M5 Winter beater
                    1984 318i Coupe 2.5 S14 going in the car below.
                    1988 M3 Lachssilber: I'm the second owner, currently recommissioning.

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