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    Block warped??

    I know its highly unlikely with an m20. I just put a h/g in may car and I got oil coming from the h/g. Its fucking irritating, I don't want to pull the head off again. Any suggestions?

    #2
    Quit putting oil in it?

    Just kidding, I got nothing.

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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      #3
      I don't know it seems like I didn't torque the head bolts right. I feel like I did right. Am I supposed to retorque after I run it? I feel like such a idiot right now...

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
        I don't know it seems like I didn't torque the head bolts right. I feel like I did right. Am I supposed to retorque after I run it? I feel like such a idiot right now...
        Yes you are.
        Initially torque them to 30ft/lbs
        Wait 15mins, then torque it to 44ft/lbs
        Then after running the engine for 25mins, tighten the bolts 25*.

        Make sure you tightened them in the right sequence as well.
        Originally posted by TSI
        ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
        OEM+

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          #5
          I'm an idiot, disregard thread. haha I KNEW I forgot something!!

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            #6
            Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
            I'm an idiot, disregard thread. haha I KNEW I forgot something!!
            Hopefully that fixes everything up. Keep us updated!
            Originally posted by TSI
            ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
            OEM+

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              #7
              also run a flat edge on the cylinder head and block if you disassemble.

              I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
              @Zakspeed_US

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                #8
                Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
                I don't know it seems like I didn't torque the head bolts right. I feel like I did right. Am I supposed to retorque after I run it? I feel like such a idiot right now...
                The head bolts, being torque to yield, are not to be re-torqued after installation of the head. Since they are torque to yield bolts, each time the head is installed new bolts must be used.

                Was the head surfaced when it was off? Did you use new head bolts?
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                  #9
                  Well followed last step and still get oil from h/g... fml. I used new head bolts, head to went to machine shop, and cleaned the block pretty damn good. I'm thinking maybe I did fuck up on the torque specs. Could i just oull the head bolts and replace with the proper torque specs?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
                    Yes you are.
                    Initially torque them to 30ft/lbs
                    Wait 15mins, then torque it to 44ft/lbs
                    Then after running the engine for 25mins, tighten the bolts 25*.

                    Make sure you tightened them in the right sequence as well.
                    I'm pretty sure that's the method for m30 engines.

                    IIRC, as per my Bentley manual, the proper way is to torque them all to something like 38 ft-lbs, then all another 90*, then all another 90* again.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
                      I'm pretty sure that's the method for m30 engines.

                      IIRC, as per my Bentley manual, the proper way is to torque them all to something like 38 ft-lbs, then all another 90*, then all another 90* again.
                      thats how I did it.

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                        #12
                        then you did it right.

                        Originally posted by ROLLingKING
                        i have a bronzit and plan on making it look sweet.
                        Originally posted by slammin.e28
                        Moral of this story?

                        If you drive your e30 on stairs, you're gonna have a bad time.

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                          #13
                          then something is warped.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
                            I'm pretty sure that's the method for m30 engines.

                            IIRC, as per my Bentley manual, the proper way is to torque them all to something like 38 ft-lbs, then all another 90*, then all another 90* again.
                            That's straight off the Bentley manual for me.
                            Originally posted by TSI
                            ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                            OEM+

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Mlarsen View Post
                              Well followed last step and still get oil from h/g... fml. I used new head bolts, head to went to machine shop, and cleaned the block pretty damn good. I'm thinking maybe I did fuck up on the torque specs. Could i just oull the head bolts and replace with the proper torque specs?
                              What is the history on this engine? Was a severe overheat in it's past?

                              If you think that you may have not properly installed the head bolts they can be replaced, one at a time, in the order shown in the Bentley manual.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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