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    valve springs

    I want to remove the valve springs on an M20 head. I've taken everything else apart. is there a part # for a compressor or a universal one I can purchase?

    also, is it worth it to replace them with new ones? I have a new set that I picked up cheap, but I know springs don't really wear out (unless they break).

    also I'll have an i cam, dual valve springs and 12 used rockers for sale if anyone is interested for their ETA.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

    #2
    Sears has a big C-clamp shaped compressor that I've had excellant use out of, no other compressor I've tried can handle the dual valve springs.http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00947627000
    85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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      #3
      awesome! it's cheap too..

      while were on the subject of heads, anyone know of the best place to get a shrick cam? IE is the cheapest I've found so far, and I haven't seen the dual pattern cams anywhere else either.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

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        #4
        racetep.com maybe, i donno jordan used them.

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          #5
          Gonna do some head work eh nando? Its worth it. I made a compressor from a 9 inch C clamp from autozone. Welded a piece of pipe to the end so it would sit on top of the retainer and I could still get the keepers in/out. It worked great for the single eta springs, but the dual springs were tough to compress.

          Oh, and its worth it to get a good cam. The reground I got required oversized eccentrics that set me back another 100 buck. So if you can find a new schrick that has plenty of lobe height you can use stock eccentrics.
          Old and improved:

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            #6
            yeah oddly enough BMP has a good selecton and halfway decent prices. I just need to decide on the duration/lift. gotta pick up my sears spring compressor today :)
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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              #7
              Yea, ordered the eccentrics from them. The cam I got was advertised as a 274 intake and exhaust, and wow does it lope at idle. Right now I still have the 1.0 motronic and its a little rough. Vacuum decreases slightly (as any cammed car will), but still had around 10 inches at idle. Should be a bit smoother with 1.3 swap.

              Still has great low end, but really shines up high around 3500. With a b25 you should be good with a 272 or a 274 single pattern. If you want to go for some more, maybe 288/274.

              Considering any port work, compression increase?
              Old and improved:

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                #8
                I heart my 282
                BimmerHeads
                Classic BMW Specialists
                Santa Clarita, CA

                www.BimmerHeads.com

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                  #9
                  I'm doing basic porting with gasket matching, polished exhaust and combustion chamber. stock compression for now, I'll be using this head later for a stroker.

                  as far as idle, I have a chip that raises the idle to 800rpm. I'll be using this in my auto (for now) so hopefully I won't be doing a brake stand everytime I come to a stop.

                  anyone have experience with a dual pattern? I was thinking of the 282/272 with 11.5mm/11.0mm of lift. what is the advantage? I do want to keep daily driveablity as this will be my only car for the forseeable future.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #10
                    got my spring compressor, it works perfect. best $20 I ever spent. :)

                    also decided on the dual pattern cam after talking to a few people. this should be fun. :)
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

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                      #11
                      It's a great compressor. I was able to do an eta head with those autozone OHC ones, but ended up ripping the thing apart when doing I-springs. I've had the Sears one for 1.5 years now and have torn down probally 7-10 heads with no problems.
                      85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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                        #12
                        are you doing a full head rebuild? mine really needs it. I have ticking and would like to pull a bit more power out of my 2.5 if possible while i am doing the headwork. I am interested in cost figures

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                          #13
                          the parts for the head aren't that bad, and if you already have a good core (I didn't) you won't have to spend as much. I have $1500 into mine but I had to buy a good core.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by nando
                            the parts for the head aren't that bad, and if you already have a good core (I didn't) you won't have to spend as much. I have $1500 into mine but I had to buy a good core.
                            could you possibly list what you have done. I can shop around for prices for stuff, but i am curious what all you have done. Does this include any machine work- 3 angle grind or port matching?

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                              #15
                              I'd recommed some work dave. Slight port increase, with matched intake manifold. Polished chambers and exhaust ports, and like you said, 3 angle valve grind. Look for a cam and maybe upgraded valve springs. A good machine shop will be able to build this head for you, or its easily done on your own. The porting I would have them do however, its a pain if your taking a lot of material off (or if you do need a valve job). Finish it up with a new set of valve seals, a cam seal and you'll be set.
                              Old and improved:

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