Stroker Running Rough (videos)

[NC325iC]

So my stroker is officially installed in the coupe, starts up quick but is running rough. The tune isn't quite right straight off the mixture is a bit rich once it warms but I don't think this would cause all of my problems. In thinking through problems that would cause me to run rough but still run I came up with a short list.
• Afm- brand new Miller psik eliminates that
• Mixed up plug wires- did a visual check on the wires, they're tagged, and correct.
• plug gap- next on my list

Then I tried to think of anything wrongly connected or missed connections, the only thing I know isn't there is the evap purge valve. After a quick search I found few mentions but there was one that suggested the purge valve could affect the engine, causing it to run rough. Does anyone have any experience with this?

[nando]

it's default position is closed. so if it's not hooked up to anything, it won't affect the engine. it could be stuck partiall open though.

[NC325iC]

Ok so it not being there won't set the computer into a crap its pants mode. Cause its not there at all.

Hmm I guess I'll get to checking everything else.

[jlevie]

The valve not being connected won't cause any problems, but you do have to plug the opening in the throttle body.

[NC325iC]

Of course

[NC325iC]

alright so i cleaned the plugs (they were all similarly dirty and smelled like fuel, as i mentioned im running rich at the moment) checked the plug wires and theyre sorted.

still not running right, ive been unplugging things and intentionally causing some problems with my convertible to try to replicate the problem.

I also used a vacuum pump i have as a make shift vacuum gauge in both. the convertible with a stock m20 reads around 18 psi vac at idle and the stroker (with low drag rings and a big boy cam) reads around 13psi vac at idle. im no expert on this but i think the 5psi difference is reasonable considering the cam and rings.

I have a video of the engine running but unfortunately in the video it doesnt sound that bad, you cant barely tell what it sounds like in person. the video is here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4KeYB_AP5I

when i shot the video it actually revved somewhat normally though the recovery isnt that great, in when i pull the throttle just a little bit it doesnt run very well as you can see in the second half of the vid.

so ive tried to unplug the following on the convertible to replicate with no luck

- vac line to fpr to simulate vac leak
-afm
-tps

I also measured the resistance in the cps on the stroker and with my multi set to the 2000 ohm setting i was getting a reading of 3 and its supposed to be 540 (i think i did it wrong) between pins 1 and 2. but this doesnt make sense cause the damn thing runs.

I am very confused. my next step unless otherwise suggested is to pull the valve cover to check the valvetrain out.

[e30rapidic]

mine ran like that when I first built it up......the distributor was loose!

[NC325iC]

alrighty then, next on the list

[NC325iC]

well the distributor was just a hair loose on one screw i took it off to check the rotor and that was fine. Tightened it up and it still runs about the same.

Its really crazy to me, you can rev it find but if you hold a constant rpm or idle it runs poorly, and if you try to change rpm too quickly it will bog down some.

Im going to email brody and get some tests for my MAF wiring.

[NC325iC]

checked my MAF readings and they arent changing between on and run so thats a problem

[NC325iC]

Fixed teh connection at the MAF that problem is gone, it was definitely affecting the engine as i had to retune the WAR chip so it wasnt dumping fuel in. Still though the engine is running rough whenever it is asked to hold a constant RPM. Throttle response is good and the engine sounds fine when reving. I am now operating under the assumption of a vacuum leak but still looking elsewhere (because i cant fix a known vacuum leak at the moment so finding an unkown would be difficult). I still kinda think it might be ignition related so i check the CPS and it reads good with Ohm meter, but it is less than .7mm from the crank wheel (.7mm is the min tolerance for the gap), could this be helping the problem?

also i have painted the crank wheel, since its a magnetic sensor it shouldnt affect it but should i worry about that as well?

[NC325iC]

rigged up a test light as a check engine light, pulled a 1211 code which is for the DME, ill try to get my hands on another one from somewhere.

[NC325iC]

Brody informs me that this code is a by product of the current war software. I wonder if this is blocking any other codes.

[NC325iC]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwn6YbQrx3k

heres another video, it revs and recovers just fine now, but it still isnt running correctly. to me the sound is almost like its on a rev limiter (the sound, only the sound)

[e30rapidic]

howl old are the spark plugs? are all your fuel injectors hooked up tightly/correctly??! Is there any smoke coming from the exhaust?