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**Jkersh** · 03-27-2011, 05:51 PM

Fpr? Icv?

**achillies** · 03-27-2011, 05:57 PM

The ICV buzzes when the key is on but havent checked it. Would the ICV keep the car from starting?

I have not checked the FPR...will do that next.

THanks

**Jkersh** · 03-27-2011, 06:20 PM

I dont think it will keep it from starting but not 100% sure.

Sounds like you have some faulty wires somewhere

**achillies** · 03-27-2011, 06:39 PM

Where the ECU is located there is a set of plugs that bolt into the same holes as the screws for the ecu. There is a black on and a white one...the black one on my car is plugged into the harness but the white one has nothing plugged into it...is that correct? I just fell like there used to be something plugged into the white one.

Anyway

Just thought of it

**jlevie** · 03-28-2011, 05:52 AM

If the ICV buzzes when the ignition is on, the DME is running. The lack of spark and fuel pump operation in that case will likely be the crank position sensor. Replace it with a new part.

**achillies** · 03-28-2011, 09:29 AM

CPS was replaced yesterday...no difference.

**IRON-E** · 03-28-2011, 10:24 AM

Checked the alternator yet?

**jlevie** · 03-28-2011, 12:11 PM

Run through the following:

For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

Power on DME pins:
27 Start Input
18 Un-switched Power input
37 Power Input from Main Relay

Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked
with a noid light.

The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
11.

The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires
that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
DME.

Troubleshooting:

Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
pump relay 85.

Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
following checks:

1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
86 & 30.

2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
injectors and fuel pump relay.

3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
14, 19, 24).

4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

IMPORTANT:

A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
charged battery.

A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
easier.

**achillies** · 03-28-2011, 05:00 PM

1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

DME 47 & 48 with the multimeter set to 2K reads .925

3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
pump relay 85.

DME 36 to Main Relay 85 = 0.00
DME 3 to Fuel Pump Relay = .001

Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
following checks:

1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
86 & 30.

DME 18 = Yes
Main 86 & 30 = Yes

2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
injectors and fuel pump relay.

DME 27 = 5.45v
DME 18 = 12v

3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
14, 19, 24).

All Pins = No Voltage

4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

+ Coil = 5.45v
Fuel Pump Relay 30 = 12v

I did not remove the CPS..I repalced it yesterday and had sooo much trouble I couldnt face it again...if it is critical I will do it tomorrow. I really appreciate the help...

Is the coil and DME 27 supposed to be so low?

Thanks
Bob

**jlevie** · 03-29-2011, 10:09 AM

DME 47 & 48 with the multimeter set to 2K reads .925

.925ohms? That would indicate a shorted connection. Disconnect the CPS from the harness and check the CPS. If you read 500-560 ohms there recheck at the DME connector. While I didn't specifically state it, the DME has to be disconnected for this and some of the other tests.

DME 27 = 5.45v
+ Coil = 5.45v

Both of these are fed from the ignition switch. They pass through C101. Start tracing back toward the ignition switch to to find out what is causing the low voltage.

**hoveringuy** · 03-29-2011, 10:13 AM

Originally posted by jlevie View Post

.925ohms? That would indicate a shorted connection. Disconnect the CPS from the harness and check the CPS. If you read 500-560 ohms there recheck at the DME connector. While I didn't specifically state it, the DME has to be disconnected for this and some of the other tests.

I think that would be 925 ohms if its .925 on a 2k scale.

**nando** · 03-29-2011, 10:32 AM

925 is still way out of spec, though.

**achillies** · 03-29-2011, 10:41 AM

Thanks I will check it out....I also was thinking of what I have done to make it stop starting. I did remove the orange SRS box from behind the dash when I removed the airbag wheel. Could this have casued issues?

Thanks

**nando** · 03-29-2011, 10:42 AM

no, but it's possible you unplugged something else near it by mistake?

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